First thing I would do is check local building codes. You don't want to get something built then find out you are out of some sort of code compliance. And make sure you pull the necessary permits.

 

First thing I would do is check local building codes. You don t want to get something built then find out you are out of some sort of code compliance. And make sure you pull the necessary permits.

- TheDane

UGH the government!

 

ALSO any good ideas on alternatives to drywall?

 

I'm considering building a small 10×12 shed for storing my lawn tractor and lawn tools and recently researched this for Aiken, SC. For a 10×12 I am considering putting it on beams instead of pouring a concrete slab. Our city code requires the shed be at least 10 feet off the property line, but I'm in the county and they only require 5 feet off the property line.

For a building the size you are talking about I would go with a concrete slab, however. IMO that is too big to do it any other way. Just my 2 cents though.

 

ALSO any good ideas on alternatives to drywall?

- richardchaos

Plywood. It is pricey, but it allows you to mount shelves and hang things anywhere. Typically you will want to re-arrange your shed several times before you are satisfied with the layout.

Codes/government BS considered, another option is those precast concrete piers set on top of compacted substrate.

$5k is tight for a shed that size, maybe put that money into a quality shell with good ventilation/lighting/insulation and add on the extras as funds allow.

 

I think any poured Concrete anything is a bit over done for a shed/workshop. A lot of videos I see are a gravel area under the entire thing with precast pads then the treated on top of that. I also thing any POURED forms would invite the City to call it a PERMANENT STRUCTURE!

I may need to shrink my size. the space I am in now is 20×20 and thats big enough UGH! this is killing me!

 

I can't help you on your local codes, except to say that in most places once you get over 180 sq ft, you are no longer a "shed", but a building with all of the code and permit requirements. Do you have an HOA?

I know this sounds strange, but I can say that $5K (even doing all of the work yourself) is a very optimistic target for the cost. Are you going to insulate the building? Finish the inside? 16×32 puts you right at 500 sq ft. With electrical, you are targeting a material costs of $10/sq ft. My back of the envelope, quick calculation has you at ~$1200 just for roof decking and T1-11 siding without any framing materials, roofing materials, windows, doors, electrical, insulation, etc.

To give you a perspective, I built my 16×24 shop in fall of 2010 and spent 8-10K on materials when it was all said and done. (not counting the concrete for the slab).

 

I think any poured Concrete anything is a bit over done for a shed/workshop. A lot of videos I see are a gravel area under the entire thing with precast pads then the treated on top of that. I also thing any POURED forms would invite the City to call it a PERMANENT STRUCTURE!

I may need to shrink my size. the space I am in now is 20×20 and thats big enough UGH! this is killing me!

- richardchaos

Not sure about where you are at, but here, anything 200 Sq ft or more requires a permit.

To do it right you are likely going to have to get some permits….

 

I have a smaller building I call my garden shed that is 12 X 16. It was built off site and set in place at my house. The foundation is pre-formed concrete pillars and beams. The structure is about 8 inches above ground level. I got around the "permanent structure" requirement by declaring it a "temporary" structure, even though it has been there for 12 years. I can't remember what the cost was but I have considerable framing experience and I couldn't build it for the same price I bought it. The inside remains unfinished but I could insulate and seal it in a day's time if there were a need.

As for drywall alternatives, I recommend 7/16" exterior Masonite siding. It is stronger than drywall and is easier to install and finish. You can hang stuff on the wall with screws without hunting for studs.

 

As for alternatives to dry wall. I was thinking of 4×8 sheets of pegboard or other such covered with the same material one would use as the outside padding of what they use for upholstery covered with a fabric like burlap and I could screw not the wall and be able to remove it and move. I think that would make for a very good sound insulator.

 

has anyone worked with INSULATED PANELS?

 

In the past, I have used T-111 siding for shop walls, and I like it a lot.

Put screws and nails anywhere, and I like the look. If you wanted lighter color to increase light reflection, it is easy enough to roll on latex paint, or of course you could spray it.

.

 

Around here anything larger than 12×16 requires a building permit, inspection, must adhere to building codes etc.

Where my mom lives the deeds say no sheds are permitted, but that hasn't stopped some from trying.

 

Around here anything larger than 12×16 requires a building permit, inspection, must adhere to building codes etc.

Where my mom lives the deeds say no sheds are permitted, but that hasn t stopped some from trying.

- patcollins

I think its a very sad commentary on American life that it seems our government is all of ours number one obstacle. to everything we do in life!

I have a client who's dream and goal was to build a FREE community center where anyone could eat 3 hot squares a day and other admendaties. Said he was called to do it from GOD

Guess who ******************** canned the entire thing….. The Government!

 

ALSO any good ideas on alternatives to drywall?

- richardchaos

For a 16×32 keeping it at 5000 or under you're going to have to skip the drywall.

 

ALSO any good ideas on alternatives to drywall?

- richardchaos
For a 16×32 keeping it at 5000 or under you re going to have to skip the drywall.

Well I wasn't looking forward to mudding the drywall any ways…. In a SHED without a firm poured concrete foundation I don't think drywall would end up well anyways
- AlaskaGuy

 

I built this at the house we just sold. It's a 16×30 I built it with a plain Jane shed roof. Doors were 8×8 I built it pole barn style with a. Concrete floor. I think I had about $6k in it but almost two of that was for concrete and having someone else pour it (to big for just me) I also put a 8×8 section off the side just for my wife to store totes

 

The Masonite stuff I recommended is used in exactly the same way as T1-11 but the surface is smooth and primed with a light grey paint. In one section of my shop, it looked good enough with the primer that I never bothered to put on a top coat. It is more expensive than T1-11 but the cost is mitigated to the extent that it really doesn't need paint.

In the past, I have used T-111 siding for shop walls, and I like it a lot.

Put screws and nails anywhere, and I like the look. If you wanted lighter color to increase light reflection, it is easy enough to roll on latex paint, or of course you could spray it.

.

- jimintx

 

Around here anything larger than 12×16 requires a building permit, inspection, must adhere to building codes etc.

Where my mom lives the deeds say no sheds are permitted, but that hasn t stopped some from trying.

- patcollins

I think its a very sad commentary on American life that it seems our government is all of ours number one obstacle. to everything we do in life!

I have a client who s dream and goal was to build a FREE community center where anyone could eat 3 hot squares a day and other admendaties. Said he was called to do it from GOD

Guess who ******************** canned the entire thing….. The Government!

- richardchaos

It all comes about because you have people that will buy a house in a nice gated community and then put up something that looks more in place in the slums of Mexico City. Many of these rules exist for a reason. As far as my moms neighborhood it was all owned by the people that live right behind her and they didn't want them in their neighborhood, its not like it was a surprise, it was spelled out clearly in the deeds that people signed when they purchased the property.

 

My area anything over 8×10 must be permit and probably a variance.
Mine is 12×16 did all the work myself 6 yrs. ago cost ~$3200. But It's 16"oc, sits on cinderblocks and I had 60% of the electrical in scrap. Not finished inside, t1-11 sides. I did get quotes for a 2 car garage in spring 5 windows roll door, man door, slab, 3 course block, built w/16" oc, metal roof, $20-30,000. unfinished, no elec., pvc sided, gutters. N.Y..

 

You want to spend $5000 and get ~500 sq feet of stand alone workshop space?
Suggest you need to look at big picture. That is $10 per sqft.

Am not even sure if finished wall workshop space is possible if you do all the work yourself, simply because of total material costs? Expect you need careful planning and/or some drastic compromises to met this cost goal? Maybe even some out of box thinking?

Examples -
Concrete pad: 4-6 in thick concrete pad averages $1.5-$2/sqft just for concrete delivered to site? Figure $3-5/sqft with labor, if contracted out. That is 1/3 to 1/2 your budget!

Gravel base: Cost of soil reclamation, site grading, 3-4 inches of gravel, plus leveling will cost up to $1.5 sqft, unless you own the heavy equipment, or want to do it all by hand.

Electrical: Running a 100A subpanel to an out building can cost over $1000 depending on distances involved. Material cost for DIY is $250+, and I hope you like digging trenches.

Roof: 550 sqft of flat membrane roof will cost ~$1000 to build on top of walls. While much better looking, a pitched gable roof is 2-2.5x cost of flat roof. Not sure your budget can afford your design pictured above?

If you want more cost examples, there are many web sites with construction cost calculators on WWW (such as www.homewyse.com)

FWIW
- Should set some realistic guidelines. Having someone build unfinished (industrial or garage) single story space (floor, frame walls, & roof only) costs $30-50/sqft, or more depending on plumbing/electrical rough in costs. Materials occupy about 35-50% of the costs. So expect 500 sqft to have at LEAST $10-12 sqft in material costs alone.

- Occasionally you can find a local builder willing to work on this kind of minimum cost construction if local economy is slow and they need work. While use of general contractor to manage your build typically adds another $10-$50 sq/ft, would still suggest you find a local house builder that specializes in remodeling, or only builds a couple of houses a year and get a formal quote or two. Even if you do not use them, the time spent will teach you of the areas regarding local building code that you need worry about when you DIY.

- Most state/local building codes require anything over 100-200 sqft requires building permit. Dealing with local code will force you to make more expensive choices if you build the structure on site. BUT use of a temporary structure will remove building construction requirements, and only require building permits/inspections for power/water/gas installation. One low cost route if local zoning allows temporary structures; consider buying a used mobile home or some surplus construction trailers and setting them up as shop. Have seen surplus overflow class rooms (double wide trailer), and construction trailers sold for less than $5k, and them you need less than $1K to run utilities to them.

- Idea to use foam/OSB building panels is an option. They are much quicker than conventional frame construction at making structures. Challenge is that materials costs for this construction are higher than standard stick construction, and not an advantage for DIY "free" labor. Would also caution you two issues. Panels are heavy, and most times a crane is used to move them into place, which is more cost to assemble the structure. There is also a higher labor cost installing electrical wiring, plus it is harder to modify the internal wiring like you can with frame construction. Major changes after building completion, require use of surface conduit to met building codes.

Best Luck.

 

I will have no Neiborghood community to worry about just the Government

Around here anything larger than 12×16 requires a building permit, inspection, must adhere to building codes etc.

Where my mom lives the deeds say no sheds are permitted, but that hasn t stopped some from trying.

- patcollins

I think its a very sad commentary on American life that it seems our government is all of ours number one obstacle. to everything we do in life!

I have a client who s dream and goal was to build a FREE community center where anyone could eat 3 hot squares a day and other admendaties. Said he was called to do it from GOD

Guess who ******************** canned the entire thing….. The Government!

- richardchaos

It all comes about because you have people that will buy a house in a nice gated community and then put up something that looks more in place in the slums of Mexico City. Many of these rules exist for a reason. As far as my moms neighborhood it was all owned by the people that live right behind her and they didn t want them in their neighborhood, its not like it was a surprise, it was spelled out clearly in the deeds that people signed when they purchased the property.

- patcollins

 

Pole Barn, pour 1/4 of the floor…about 4 yards worth….

 

Well I did some measuring and I think downsizing is in order Maybe more like 16×20. I will have access to a small one car garage on the property where I can make say a finishing area and some stationary tools I rarely use.

I guess I will just have to go to the city folks and get al the required red tape. I can do it all my self but don't want to pour a pad.

As far as I know you can do anything you wish juts being a DIYer BUT you DO have to pass inspection. I hope the inspectors are in a good mood.

Its just gunna kill me to wait and not make much saw bust…....

As far as PANELS I had no idea they were way expensive I was figuring they would be way cheeper than stick frame building! KRIST! its just some cheap OSB and say 6 inches of Styrofoam and glue

! Whats the big costs there?

I have seen where some of these panels manufactures will make them smaller so one or 2 men can handle them.

I also want to me make a creative statement if thats allowed.

I love the craftsman style Maybe like this

You want to spend $5000 and get ~500 sq feet of stand alone workshop space?
Suggest you need to look at big picture. That is $10 per sqft.

Am not even sure if finished wall workshop space is possible if you do all the work yourself, simply because of total material costs? Expect you need careful planning and/or some drastic compromises to met this cost goal? Maybe even some out of box thinking?

Examples -
Concrete pad: 4-6 in thick concrete pad averages $1.5-$2/sqft just for concrete delivered to site? Figure $3-5/sqft with labor, if contracted out. That is 1/3 to 1/2 your budget!

Gravel base: Cost of soil reclamation, site grading, 3-4 inches of gravel, plus leveling will cost up to $1.5 sqft, unless you own the heavy equipment, or want to do it all by hand.

Electrical: Running a 100A subpanel to an out building can cost over $1000 depending on distances involved. Material cost for DIY is $250+, and I hope you like digging trenches.

Roof: 550 sqft of flat membrane roof will cost ~$1000 to build on top of walls. While much better looking, a pitched gable roof is 2-2.5x cost of flat roof. Not sure your budget can afford your design pictured above?

If you want more cost examples, there are many web sites with construction cost calculators on WWW (such as www.homewyse.com)

FWIW
- Should set some realistic guidelines. Having someone build unfinished (industrial or garage) single story space (floor, frame walls, & roof only) costs $30-50/sqft, or more depending on plumbing/electrical rough in costs. Materials occupy about 35-50% of the costs. So expect 500 sqft to have at LEAST $10-12 sqft in material costs alone.

- Occasionally you can find a local builder willing to work on this kind of minimum cost construction if local economy is slow and they need work. While use of general contractor to manage your build typically adds another $10-$50 sq/ft, would still suggest you find a local house builder that specializes in remodeling, or only builds a couple of houses a year and get a formal quote or two. Even if you do not use them, the time spent will teach you of the areas regarding local building code that you need worry about when you DIY.

- Most state/local building codes require anything over 100-200 sqft requires building permit. Dealing with local code will force you to make more expensive choices if you build the structure on site. BUT use of a temporary structure will remove building construction requirements, and only require building permits/inspections for power/water/gas installation. One low cost route if local zoning allows temporary structures; consider buying a used mobile home or some surplus construction trailers and setting them up as shop. Have seen surplus overflow class rooms (double wide trailer), and construction trailers sold for less than $5k, and them you need less than $1K to run utilities to them.

- Idea to use foam/OSB building panels is an option. They are much quicker than conventional frame construction at making structures. Challenge is that materials costs for this construction are higher than standard stick construction, and not an advantage for DIY "free" labor. Would also caution you two issues. Panels are heavy, and most times a crane is used to move them into place, which is more cost to assemble the structure. There is also a higher labor cost installing electrical wiring, plus it is harder to modify the internal wiring like you can with frame construction. Major changes after building completion, require use of surface conduit to met building codes.

Best Luck.

- CaptainKlutz

 

I will be posting my latest and probably last PROJECT tomorrow! for awhile!