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29K views 45 replies 27 participants last post by  shopsmithpoppi  
#1 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
 

Attachments

#2 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
I really like this, your clever arrangement for set up is wonderful. I am going to try this only because it is so intriguing.
Thank you
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
I appreciate you enthusiasm, woodklutz. All I ask is that you don't post the results before I have a chance to finish this blog. You probably don't intend to but it has happened before on a previous project with someone else.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Nice one Martyn.
I always wondered if you cut the stringing or just bend it. I guess you cut it curved.

Looks like a cool box a coming,
Steve
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Steve, I tried bending it first but the strain placed on the glue-up could lead to later failure in the glue line. So I finally opted for a cut curve. No strain, major gain (Jayne Fonda eat your heart out).
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
I just made one and was going to post but in deference to this blog I will wait…. nah just joshing you… although I might just make one but as a board not a box… I will leave the fancy boxes to you and Andy..
Deepest regards…Larry….
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Larry, you would have come up with it all on your own anyway.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Looks like another winner. I'm watching with interest. Thanks for taking the time to show us the details.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Martyn, I have learned more about how fancy boxes are made just following your blogs! You are a true genius and artist. This one is a little more than I care to tackle. Maybe someday ? !
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
looks like a great start to anotrher saweeeeeeeeeeeeet one ofa kind box but then again all your boxes are just that one ofa kind!
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Martyn, this is another great design. I haven't digested all the technics you used in the "inverted world" yet.

This one seems a little easier (emphasize "seems").

Thanks!
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Thank you for taking the time to blog this and show everyone how you make these fascinating boxes. This one is sure a beauty! I don't know if I will ever have the equipment to try one out, but it is still so interesting to see your process when you build one of these. It is going to be quite beautiful. I love the wood species you chose too. It looks like it will be another masterpiece! :)

Sheila
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Not sure I picture how the pivot pin is anchored to the bandsaw table. Very cool piece. Thanks for blogging about it.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Just click on this link, Kevin. Circle Cutting Jig
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Thanks Martyn. I don't get a lot of computer time, I do come and look at the projects everyday if I can. I always look forward to your next project/blog, but I don't get a lot of time to type up a thank you. Your boxes are incredible.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Martyn, I applaud you skill and thought process. I also like your Led Zeppelin reference.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Wow, Martin. They (the boxes) just keep getting better!
Thank you for doing a blog on this.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Neato! You have Skills, did I say Skills? I mean AWESOME SKILLS!
Really cool!
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Shell box - Intro and pattern

Hello here this is my second attempt to blog shell boxes. The last one ended up in the wall art 'Inverted World'. Well this one is a little less spectacular but is based along the same theme of curves. This time a curved pattern

Image


but it will have stringing introduced between the colour changes as will become apparent as the blog progresses. The main woods are American Black Walnut and Sycamore with Yew stringing. I will be book-matching woods where necessary.

First step is to cut one piece of each of the main woods, 110mm square by 18mm thick.

Image


This needs cutting into 45° triangles. An easy way is with a jig like this

Image


marked up with an engineers square and cut on the bandsaw. The wood to be cut is placed in it and cut on the tablesaw, thus

Image


To cut the necessary curves in this piece I used my Circle Cutting Jig
So to prepare the four triangles for cutting I first made up a sacrificial carrier plate from 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) like this

Image


Then double sided taped the triangles together and to the carrier plate like this

Image


The Sycamore is on top and the Walnut beneath. I clipped off the bottom corner of the wood so as not to snag the pivot pin on the Circle Jig. I then cut the largest radius

Image


Followed by the smallest radius curve

Image


After separating the pieces and cleaning off the double sided tape I had a stack just as before I started cutting. I flipped the pieces curved on both inside and outside thus

Image


When you separate the top layer from the bottom one and re-arrange them you get this

Image


When glued up each of these four triangular patterns will be re-sawn, producing the full pattern. You'll see. Just be patient.
For the stringing I used the same method with the circle jig and bandsaw to produce curved stringing out of a piece of Yew. Placing it in the pattern like this.

Image


I made up a simple gluing cramp jig to glue the assemblies up like so

Image


and glued up two triangles at a time like this

Image


The pressure of each clamp counterbalances the other here. The metal rule is used to separate the triangles as each is going to be individually re-sawn. In the next part I will do the re-saw and fully integrate the pattern.

Be seeing you
Awesome skills and techniques..very nice Martyn.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Learning to walk again

That's just the Foo Fighter's track playing endlessly in my head ATM. Good enough title though. Anyways up when the triangles are glued up and re-arranged you get this.

Image


When you re-saw them you get this

Image


I glued and taped the re-saws using a technique David (Patron) calls a glue joint. Put glue on one piece of the joint. Slide them together with a little finger pressure until you get a 'soft' lock. Simples! Then tape them until they dry.

Image


Then do the same with these four pieces, introducing Yew stringing to get this.

Image


When thickness sanded it looks like this

Image


The moody lighting is due to a rare appearance of a thing called 'the Sun'. Not often seen in England, especially in summer.
Right this has been sanded using 150 grit and really needs to be taken down to 400 or 600 grit. Hand sanding. I know it involves actual work and is therefore generally frowned on these days but I still do it! I like to sand corner to corner on this sort of pattern so I use a quick and dirty holdfast.

Image


Its at times like these you have to decide whether you have a 'pretty' bench (which you wouldn't dare nail things into) or a 'workbench' (which you do 'work' on and therefore accept wear and tear with). I have the latter, a workbench. The above causes little trauma to the bench

Image


I can live with that.

Now I use a sanding block from Mirka called, Abranet. I'm not on the payroll it just works, so I'm passing it on. Its a velcro covered foam pad with a firm side( dense foam ) and a not so firm side (less denser) like this

Image


The pads are open net with a velcro backing

Image


come in grits from 60 down to 600. I'd be very surprised if the same or similar is not available worldwide. Advantages are that it doesn't clog easily and when it finally does you just vacuum out the dust and continue. The pads are quick change. They last for bloody ages, I haven't worn one out yet in over a year. They also do a pad system with permanent dust removal by vacuum hose. The kit is about ÂŁ35 ($55).

So when sanded down, sealed and trimmed ready for EZ Mitre (with a quick coat of polish, just for a look see) this is what the board looks like.

Image


I put the board through steps 4 and five of EZ Mitre only and glue and tape up the result, so

Image


That's all for now as the glue is drying.

Be seeing you
 

Attachments

#21 ·
Learning to walk again

That's just the Foo Fighter's track playing endlessly in my head ATM. Good enough title though. Anyways up when the triangles are glued up and re-arranged you get this.

Image


When you re-saw them you get this

Image


I glued and taped the re-saws using a technique David (Patron) calls a glue joint. Put glue on one piece of the joint. Slide them together with a little finger pressure until you get a 'soft' lock. Simples! Then tape them until they dry.

Image


Then do the same with these four pieces, introducing Yew stringing to get this.

Image


When thickness sanded it looks like this

Image


The moody lighting is due to a rare appearance of a thing called 'the Sun'. Not often seen in England, especially in summer.
Right this has been sanded using 150 grit and really needs to be taken down to 400 or 600 grit. Hand sanding. I know it involves actual work and is therefore generally frowned on these days but I still do it! I like to sand corner to corner on this sort of pattern so I use a quick and dirty holdfast.

Image


Its at times like these you have to decide whether you have a 'pretty' bench (which you wouldn't dare nail things into) or a 'workbench' (which you do 'work' on and therefore accept wear and tear with). I have the latter, a workbench. The above causes little trauma to the bench

Image


I can live with that.

Now I use a sanding block from Mirka called, Abranet. I'm not on the payroll it just works, so I'm passing it on. Its a velcro covered foam pad with a firm side( dense foam ) and a not so firm side (less denser) like this

Image


The pads are open net with a velcro backing

Image


come in grits from 60 down to 600. I'd be very surprised if the same or similar is not available worldwide. Advantages are that it doesn't clog easily and when it finally does you just vacuum out the dust and continue. The pads are quick change. They last for bloody ages, I haven't worn one out yet in over a year. They also do a pad system with permanent dust removal by vacuum hose. The kit is about ÂŁ35 ($55).

So when sanded down, sealed and trimmed ready for EZ Mitre (with a quick coat of polish, just for a look see) this is what the board looks like.

Image


I put the board through steps 4 and five of EZ Mitre only and glue and tape up the result, so

Image


That's all for now as the glue is drying.

Be seeing you
sweet martyn

another challenge
for us students

better get out your italian shades
if that sun keeps showing up
 

Attachments

#31 ·
Top to Bottom

Well the top shell glue up was successful but I'm not going to show you yet, you'll have to wait. Its good. Well I think so. Next we need to make the bottom shell. First we're going to need some measurements. Width

Image


92mm (you can do the maths, divide by 25.4 or multiple by 100 and divide by four for an approximate figure) and depth

Image


51mm. To make the actual shell a tight fit I subtract 1mm from the width making 91mm (fold up and glue line add a tiny fraction almost making up this millimetre). I also add 5mm to the height as there is going to be a 6mm plinth attached around the base of this bottom shell. So thats +6mm -1mm = 5mm (so that it just doesn't touch the inside top of the top shell). This allows for calculation of the board size as 2 x height + width (you'll see when I mark it out) that is (2Ă—55) + 91 = 201mm.
As its a square box you'd expect this to be 201mm square, wouldn't you. Life is never that easy. Always measure both width dimensions. This one is 201Ă—201.5mm. Usually I make these bottom shells from 3mm Birch aeroply. I feel adventurous this time and there was some sycamore left over, which I re-sawed and glued up thus

Image


Cleaned up and thicknessed to about 3mm on the drum sander it looks like this

Image


It never ceases to amaze me that two knot holes on book-matched wood looks like a pair of eyes. Can't figure the expression on them this time though. For even grain coverage on the finished shell I mark up the net for it at 45° to the grain direction.

Image


See where the 2 x height + width comes from? This is trimmed down and taped ready for EZ-mitre

Image


The bit in the router here is the same 45° bit I used for the mitres in the top shell. After whizzing through all four sides it looks like this

Image


The four corners are chopped out with a knife

Image


and the result folded up, glued and taped to produce this

Image


In the next part we see how well it fits. Adjust as necessary and add the plinth

Be seeing you.
 

Attachments

#32 ·
Top to Bottom

Well the top shell glue up was successful but I'm not going to show you yet, you'll have to wait. Its good. Well I think so. Next we need to make the bottom shell. First we're going to need some measurements. Width

Image


92mm (you can do the maths, divide by 25.4 or multiple by 100 and divide by four for an approximate figure) and depth

Image


51mm. To make the actual shell a tight fit I subtract 1mm from the width making 91mm (fold up and glue line add a tiny fraction almost making up this millimetre). I also add 5mm to the height as there is going to be a 6mm plinth attached around the base of this bottom shell. So thats +6mm -1mm = 5mm (so that it just doesn't touch the inside top of the top shell). This allows for calculation of the board size as 2 x height + width (you'll see when I mark it out) that is (2Ă—55) + 91 = 201mm.
As its a square box you'd expect this to be 201mm square, wouldn't you. Life is never that easy. Always measure both width dimensions. This one is 201Ă—201.5mm. Usually I make these bottom shells from 3mm Birch aeroply. I feel adventurous this time and there was some sycamore left over, which I re-sawed and glued up thus

Image


Cleaned up and thicknessed to about 3mm on the drum sander it looks like this

Image


It never ceases to amaze me that two knot holes on book-matched wood looks like a pair of eyes. Can't figure the expression on them this time though. For even grain coverage on the finished shell I mark up the net for it at 45° to the grain direction.

Image


See where the 2 x height + width comes from? This is trimmed down and taped ready for EZ-mitre

Image


The bit in the router here is the same 45° bit I used for the mitres in the top shell. After whizzing through all four sides it looks like this

Image


The four corners are chopped out with a knife

Image


and the result folded up, glued and taped to produce this

Image


In the next part we see how well it fits. Adjust as necessary and add the plinth

Be seeing you.
I don't know exactly what to call the expression of the eyes, but it looks to me like the guy was having his morning coffee and hears something to the effect of "Honey, have you seen the cup I was using to soak my contacts?"

Even without a finish, I can tell already that the Yew is going to fire that thing off. Can't wait to see it. The tutorials are meant for someone other than me though. My idea of precise is, "looks about right".
 

Attachments

#41 ·
You say tomato.....

So do I it just sounds different.

Did it fit? The bottom shell into the top shell. Well sort of. It was tighter than a very tight thing. A light (yes thats how most of the world spells it) sanding later and it was a comfortable, moving, fit

Image


You get a vacuum effect when you remove it as the air can't easily get in to fill the increasing volume. To this end I route grooves along the sides, vertically, to allow an influx of air.

Image


Image


Problem solved. Next the mitred pedestal. Walnut cut to shape 12mm x 6mm.

Image


This is the ideal time to route a bevelled corner off with this

Image


Image


This is cut into four pieces and mitred on the trusty old Mitring Jig

Image


Image


Set up like this the sides should come out the perfect length.

Image


All glued on. The base looks a bit of a mess

Image


So applied some stick on baise.

Image


Once the inside top and outside bottom are polished up (wax) the two halves slide together with a satisfying slight whoosh of air. If you want to see what the whole thing looks like you'll have to wait for the project post. Not long.

Be seeing you.
 

Attachments

#42 ·
You say tomato.....

So do I it just sounds different.

Did it fit? The bottom shell into the top shell. Well sort of. It was tighter than a very tight thing. A light (yes thats how most of the world spells it) sanding later and it was a comfortable, moving, fit

Image


You get a vacuum effect when you remove it as the air can't easily get in to fill the increasing volume. To this end I route grooves along the sides, vertically, to allow an influx of air.

Image


Image


Problem solved. Next the mitred pedestal. Walnut cut to shape 12mm x 6mm.

Image


This is the ideal time to route a bevelled corner off with this

Image


Image


This is cut into four pieces and mitred on the trusty old Mitring Jig

Image


Image


Set up like this the sides should come out the perfect length.

Image


All glued on. The base looks a bit of a mess

Image


So applied some stick on baise.

Image


Once the inside top and outside bottom are polished up (wax) the two halves slide together with a satisfying slight whoosh of air. If you want to see what the whole thing looks like you'll have to wait for the project post. Not long.

Be seeing you.
I was on the finished project page first an I noticed the vertical grooves in the sides. I wondered why they were there. From the photograph, at first glance I thought you pieced each of the sides together.

But after reading this, the light bulb came on and I had my "ah-ha!" moment. You are a smart man, Martyn. Talented and smart. I can see the groove making a world of difference.

The box itself it beautiful. Again, I love the softness of the coloring. Thank you for taking the time to document your process. Like many, I learn from every post. You are a great teacher.

Outstanding project! Sheila
 

Attachments