You are probably cutting the burr off as you go. It might be the steel not helping you create a large enough burr for you to see. How are you attaching the sheets on the tile?
I wouldn’t consider getting a large burr a success sometimes I don’t get one either. My finish stone is light colored I can see when some steel gets cut off the edge on the back it leaves a dark mark. Sometimes a wire mostly not.

 

Any chance you're not keeping the angle exact? You can kinda round the face if you keep changing the angles, even slightly. Then it's very difficult to get a reliable burr.

I use a rolling jig and a jig for setting the blade in it so it's always exact for this very reason

 

Definitely leaving steel on the sheets. They are PSA sheets - which I think is pressure sensitive adhesive. I lightly spritzed the tiles with water, removed the backing from the sheet and squeeged them on.

@IAmSupernova - I think angle is staying pretty exact as I’m using a jig to set it.

 

“I mounted the sheets on some 12” x 24” tiles”

The first question I’d have is what kind of tile is it? The only really flat tile that I know of is polished natural stone (like granite). The “shine” of a polished surface isn’t required for sharpening but perhaps the polished ones shine because they’re flattened more (just a hypothesis)? Ceramic tiles look flat to the eye but they’re not reference-surface flat like you need for sharpening. If you end up switching to another surface I’d go with float glass because flatness is one of the design criteria for glass where tiles just need to look nice on the floor so maybe tolerances are not as rigid (though I do have a polished granite tile that works well for me).

I’d also try another iron or two with your setup before you get too discouraged. Some steels turn more of a burr than others. A burr is a good indication that you’ve gotten all the way to the edge though and, especially at the coarser grits, you really should be able to feel one at some point in the whole process (the very fine ones do often break off during honing).

Jack

 

Then I'm not sure. It's hard to diagnose sharpening issues over the Internet. That's one of those things you really need to be there and see what's wrong, to actually know.

My sharpening skills have been in a constant state of refinement for years. Every time you think you found sharp, you accidently discover a whole new level of sharp.

I can tell you what you can do to "get to work" until you can figure it out though.. secondary bevel at a slightly higher angle and a back bevel.

Those two combined will pretty much overcome anyone's difficulty with getting sharp.

You don't need a lot either. If you can see a clear line across the width of the blade, it's enough. You're not trying to establish a bevel, you're simply trying to bring two points together at a much finer level.

I do both starting at 1k grit. Takes 10-20 passes usually.

 

I can't remember the last time I had a burr left over. Of course, as soon as I'm done with the bevel, I go right to the back which would take off the burr. Guess I'm impatient... I don't even take the blade out of the jig. I still get blades sharp enough to shave with.

 

I have a burr for each grit, and remove it with the previous grit before going on.

I suspect the issue here is the OP is simply not going long enough.

Trevor, are you sharping to a primary bevel (the entire face), or a secondary bevel? If so, increase the angle a couple degrees and I think that will solve the issue.

 

Thanks @rwe2156 - I am sharpening the primary bevel. I will try this secondary bevel approach.

 

Since you seemed unsure of the support surface, you might consider a glass plate. I've used ones like this ($26 and pretty flat) for polishing optical fibers using oxide and diamond lapping films. Also, one can induce roll over by putting a softer material on top of the glass and beneath the lapping film. This is how to put a slight convex radius on of fibers connectors. Some ideas to think about if you're still looking around.

 

I tried glass at first.. I ended up breaking it pretty fast.

I bought a 1x2 foot ceramic tile from Lowe's and it served me well. Still have it even though I don't use it anymore really.

 

Yeah, glass can break. Easily if it's got a scratch, also if you concentrate the pressure in a small area. On the other hand, glass is kinda tough if it's in compression (well supported), so I'd expect it to work for blade sharpening. Expect and 'is in practice' are two different things. For blades, I use Shapton stones, not glass plates. And, now that I think about it, Shapton stones are on a glass substrate.

 

I think if you go glass, you probably want to go thicker than just standard glass. I just bought the cheap thin glass pane from home Depot

I mean if it's gonna be your long term solution anyways.

 

I have a piece of float glass I’ve used for 25ish years in my shop. It’s 30” long and about a foot wide and 1/2” thick. I got it at a garage sale as the glass top for a very ugly metal framed sofa table. I used up the metal bits in various small welding projects and kept the top for sharpening—I’ve never found anything better. It’d probably be expensive at a glass shop but second hand shops and sales often have out of fashion glass top tables for next to nothing, I think mine was ten bucks or so.

I’ve always thought that a thick glass mirror would be ideal also. They’re very inexpensive at every goodwill and sale and some are pretty thick. I figure if it’s going to be a mirror that gives a good reflection without distortion it must be pretty a pretty flat surface.

Jack

 

Good point regarding the mirror. It's easy to spot distortion by holding your glass plate/mirror and looking at something straight (like fluorescent lamps on a ceiling) in reflection. With a flat surface, straight things look straight in reflection. Long swoops indicate the entire plate curves. That may not be an issue if you're sharpening a plane blade. Short (blade sized) ripples indicate height variations that might affect your work.

 

I personally think 60 grit is way too coarse.
i
I wouldn’t use any lower than 120 on a severely damaged edge.
I also agree that you are erasing the burr, with technique, unless you used power before hand.
Also there are plenty of tools in the market with garbage steel and improper tempering.
soft steel will never keep and edge

 

It wasn’t too long ago woodworker could find these small granite plates. I have three of them I don’t think I’ve paid more then 125.00 my last one.
They are nearly indestructible 12x18x3 inches thick. You can set anywhere and not be concerned about them flexing.
I also have a bigger one that I got very cheap it’s not super precision but very nice for a woodshop.
I use spray adhesive with sandpaper to rub small boxs and parts flat. It’s what recommend.