I have 2 clamps like that. Yeah they don't like to open when you just barely open them. I find it best to open them quite a bit and then use the screw handle to kinda torque it (away from the bar) out a bit.

They're usually the last clamp I put on. My smaller F clamps are good for trying to get a piece glued up with 2 hands when you really need 5.. those clamps are more what I use just to tighten up the panel and make sure it's got a good bond.

 

Yes, they can make clamping interesting. But, they work very well.

 

I got a few with a used machine purchase. Similar issues and also bulky to store. I sold them.

 

I have this issue with the Bessey clamps I’ve got that don’t have the clutch. I just tend to rattle ‘em and swear at them until they behave, and I’ve stopped buying anything without the clutch.

 

Fine Woodworking did an article on parallel clamps vs other types of clamps a few years ago. I think the article also reviewed the different brands of parallel clamps for things like clamping pressure, parallelism, and ease of use. What I got from the article was the various forces that could be applied depending on the type of clamp; I now use that information to decide which claamp to use. The parallel clamps can exert a lot more force than most other clamps, so I use them for large complex glue-ups with lots of joints, or where I want to pull edge banding tight to a panel and minimize glue lines. I also like them better than pipe clamps as they don't leave behind iron oxides or dent the wood the way a pipe clamp without a caul will dent the wood.

I would agree they can be a pain to loosen and tighten, but the better quality clamps work better than the cheap knockoffs.

 

I have always used galvanized conduit for the clamps , no problem with rust. And IMC conduit is lighter and stronger than regular rigid conduit

 

I have six Bessey F-clamps with the thick steel bars but no clutch. With genuine respect to those who are struggling with them, I found them easy and intuitive to use. Here are "tricks" that help me:

* RULE #1: Whenever you use the clamp, always make sure there are visible threads showing on the tip side of the moveable jaw's screw so that you can always unscrew the clamp. If you leave no threads on the clamp side of the moveable jaw, then you will struggle to unscrew or loosen the clamp.

* When I put them away, I always roughly "center" the clamp screw in the moveable jaw first, then store them clamped. I leave it so that there are screw threads visible on both sides of the screw. You want to be sure the screw has room to turn. Then I shove the moveable jaw against the fixed jaw to "clamp" it so it stays there.

* When using the clamps, make sure that you leave visible threads to unscrew the clamp. If there is a problem, back off the clamp, give yourself some more threads, and reclamp.

* To release the clamp, I give the screw a few turns to loosen it and make space for the moveable jaw. Next, tip the moveable jaw in towards the fixed jaw to unhook the moveable jaw from the "teeth" on the bar. While the moveable part is tipped towards the fixed jaw, slide the moveable jaw up or down the bar. Do not apply a lot of pressure when tipping the moveable jaw towards the fixed jaw. If you apply too much "tilt pressure", the moveable jaw may scrape the bar teeth or bind slightly.

Reminder: If you did not leave extra threads to unscrew and loosen the clamp, then you will struggle.

Photos:
(a) Stored - How I store them.
(b) Open - This is the gap that's needed to fully tilt the moveable jaw into the fixed jaw. The moveable jaw will not slide on the bar in this position. You do not need this much gap to tilt and release the jaw, but any extra gap beyond this won't help more.
(c) Tilted Jaw - This is the moveable jaw tilted towards the fixed jaw from the previous position shown in photo "b". The moveable jaw will slide up and down the bar when tilted this way. (The tilt is not much, but it makes the difference.)

For the record, I am asking myself whether this post will help or not. I hope it helps some of those who are struggling with those Bessey clamps. For the record, they are my favorite clamps. All of my other clamps are cheap or old.

 

I have six Bessey F-clamps with the thick steel bars but no clutch. With genuine respect to those who are struggling with them, I found them easy and intuitive to use. Here are "tricks" that help me:

* RULE #1: Whenever you use the clamp, always make sure there are visible threads showing on the tip side of the moveable jaw's screw so that you can always unscrew the clamp. If you leave no threads on the clamp side of the moveable jaw, then you will struggle to unscrew or loosen the clamp.

* When I put them away, I always roughly "center" the clamp screw in the moveable jaw first, then store them clamped. I leave it so that there are screw threads visible on both sides of the screw. You want to be sure the screw has room to turn. Then I shove the moveable jaw against the fixed jaw to "clamp" it so it stays there.

* When using the clamps, make sure that you leave visible threads to unscrew the clamp. If there is a problem, back off the clamp, give yourself some more threads, and reclamp.

* To release the clamp, I give the screw a few turns to loosen it and make space for the moveable jaw. Next, tip the moveable jaw in towards the fixed jaw to unhook the moveable jaw from the "teeth" on the bar. While the moveable part is tipped towards the fixed jaw, slide the moveable jaw up or down the bar. Do not apply a lot of pressure when tipping the moveable jaw towards the fixed jaw. If you apply too much "tilt pressure", the moveable jaw may scrape the bar teeth or bind slightly.

Reminder: If you did not leave extra threads to unscrew and loosen the clamp, then you will struggle.

Photos:
(a) Stored - How I store them.
(b) Open - This is the gap that's needed to fully tilt the moveable jaw into the fixed jaw. The moveable jaw will not slide on the bar in this position. You do not need this much gap to tilt and release the jaw, but any extra gap beyond this won't help more.
(c) Tilted Jaw - This is the moveable jaw tilted towards the fixed jaw from the previous position shown in photo "b". The moveable jaw will slide up and down the bar when tilted this way. (The tilt is not much, but it makes the difference.)

View attachment 3925091 View attachment 3925092 View attachment 3925093

For the record, I am asking myself whether this post will help or not. I hope it helps some of those who are struggling with those Bessey clamps. For the record, they are my favorite clamps. All of my other clamps are cheap or old.

Good tips, but those are not what the OP is asking about. For F clamps, I try to keep the anvil relatively close to the moveable jaw for more direct pressure and more range if needed to draw the work together. I store them fully open, hanging from the handle end.

 

if you're into making panels seriously and have shekels to splash, it'd be hard to go past FRONTLINE clamps. There are many great videos about them, however, I'm crazy enough to spruik my amateurish contribution into the YouTube foray about them,

Another viable but cheaper option are the Bessey REVO KREV, or an upgrade to them.

 

Parallel clamp exert more force? Edge banding yes, but it is a very awkward clamp.

When I first came on woodworking talk forums in 2000, Bessey and Forrest was all anybody could talk about. They took the most expensive clamp and saw blade and made it have to have for the shop.

So many as good or better products on the market..