Have you looked at Rikon?

 

I did. But they didnt bring anything better to the table over the Laguna or Harvey (or the Jet, in my admittedly limited experience and research), and they weren't cheaper enough to overcome my other preferences. But I could be way off base

 

I also have a 12” Jet and it is what it is. I recently bought a Laguna BX to replace an Rikon 18” and I’m more than happy with it. The fence is great.

I’ve owned a number of bandsaws over the years and this one is by far the best.

 

No experience with the Harvey, but I have been happy with my PM 1500.

 

Fancy guides do not a "good" band saw make imo. Some experienced users prefer the old steel guide blocks...

Here's what Northfield uses, I guess: Bandsaw Repair Parts

"by golly if the Harvey isn't the ONLY saw that comes with tool-less roller-bearing guides that I wouldn't want to replace! It also seems like it meets or beats the others in every feature I care about too! (e.g. big tilting rust proof table, 3HP motor, 14" resaw capacity, foot brake). It even includes their nifty COMPASS RG-2 Roller Guide. "

If those features are important to you, they are important to you.

Nothing wrong with a big table or motor imo. Magnetic tables have their virtues. My INCA 710 has an anodized aluminum one that is fine but if I could have a magnetic table I'd like that.

If I could only have one I'd want 18" at least, 1" plus blade width capacity and probably 1.5hp at least. Resawing isn't real important to me because wide resawing brings its own headaches. I'm of the Michael Fortune/Monroe Robinson school of thought with resawing for veneers.

If you turn on the lathe or mill logs, I could see wanting 12" or more.

I always buy used machinery... so I'm not in a position to be as picky as those who prefer new.

The Agazzani saws were said to be "the best" made when they were.

 

"fancy" isnt what Im after. But guides that easily and precisely adjust, and keep the blade straight without a lot of expertise, and that make balde changes as easy as possible, these are features that are better for me, whether they are the "best" or not.

the magnetic table is nice. My Delta was alum, but the jet is cast iron, and I much prefer it.

Almost all of my floor standing tools were bought used, so I am totally with you on that one too. I am constantly scouring CL and OfferUp. I just havent found anything there yet that fits my wants.

I do have a lathe but its a smaller one (Nova Comet II). And I am most interested in resawing to make matched panels vs resawing thin veneers, but I dunno.

But this is is all exactly the kind of discussion I was looking for, so thanks!

 

+1 You want the best? The Italian made (Agazzani, etc ) wood cutting band saw are top of line, world class machines.
They are so good, that SCM and Felder bought the old mfg, and still produce commercial BS in Italy. For American made band saw, Northfield is only option, as Tannewitz is importing tools. The best commercial BS guides are typically "Wright" guides, or similar clones; and they don't use ball bearings on blade.

+1 Getting fixated on fancy features is why marketing folks have jobs.
Stumpy's Harvey video was a subsidized adventure, just like most of his videos that claim certain brands are "great".
I always consider his tool video's as extensions of companies marketing program.

Harvey makes decent tools. The BS are clones of tools made in Taiwan; that are clones of American (Delta), or European (Italian) models. Before massive China tariff increases in 2017; Harvey was mfg for several popular US OEM (including some Teknatool/Nova products). Since the increased tariffs, most USA OEM have moved mfg back to Taiwan; which forced Harvey's owners to begin selling direct in USA a few years ago or risk closing the doors. With latest increases in China tariffs in 2025; IMHO Harvey tools are getting expensive compared to Taiwan produced choices in larger BS.

You get what you pay for when buying a band saw.
To met your goals: A top of line 18-20" Northfield or SCM BS will cost over $10,000. These commercial BS are in a different league than any Asian machine.
With only $3K to spend you choices are: used machines, or making compromises buying Asian made tools.

If you have $3K, hang on to it; until you can find a used; Northfield, Crescent, or similar antique 20" BS. Sold my Asian BS, the same day I got my 20" Crescent restored.
There was a debate recently on the best home shop 16-20" BS on OWWM forums. The Walker Turner, Duro, and Yates; 16" models are well praised smaller tools; but tend to be harder to find.

PS - ALL band saws can be challenging to get setup. The best have; rock solid guides, will hold setup forever, with minimal amount of fidgeting to get them set up. The less you spend, the less robust the tools become, and more time is wasted on change overs or adjustments. But then again, in a home shop; time is less important than money. Which is why my shop is full of used tools, AND why I have two band saws; a 10" for small circle cutting, an a 20" for resaw and cutting timber.

YMMV

 

When did I say I want the best? Cause if I even sideways implied that, I hereby immediately retract it! Don't need it, don't want to afford it. As for the old huge monsters, I'm sorry but I just don't want the PITA of fixing up an old monster--nor do I have the space to dedicate to such a thing. Frankly, any 18-20" BS (espeicially of that kind) is just too big for the space I want it to occupy. And in any case, my area seems to have little availability for that kind of stuff.

I want something that will allow me to grow into a competent bandsaw woodworker, and let me experience any of the normal bandsaw tasks, without holding me back. The specs I gave initially are what my research has so far led me to believe will accomplish that task. Don't have to buy new, don't even want to, but I also don't want to "compromise", and waste $1500 on something used that isn't what I want, when just a few hundred more will definitely get me something I want. Most importantly, I definitely do not need or want to spend more on a bandsaw that all my other tools put together. Even $3K is 3 or 4 times more than I have spent on any other single tool.

I am well aware of Stumpy's inclination to "stump" for a product he really likes--often times for free. However, he does have a knack for talking about the little things that often go unnoticed in product evaluations. And his content is hardly the extent of my research. But when even my own limited experience lines up with something he says, I really don't care if he "marketing" to me or not.

I am seriously considering your last point--keeping my 12" bandsaw for small work, and dedicating this bigger one to resaw and larger cutting jobs. The main caveat (other than I have NO SPACE for two BS's!) is that although I want to be able to resaw, I hardly think that will be a common task for me in the near or even forseeable future. This is why "easy blade change" is such a big deal for me.

 

Just my opinion and I’m sure I’m in the minority but here goes. Setting up a saw to cut circles around a dime and then switching that setup to resaw anything more than about 4” efficiently is going to be a PIA no matter who’s saw you buy. Sure a better saw can get there quicker and easier but I’m talking about the Asian saws that dominate the home/hobby work shops. I recently saw a promo video of one of these saws resawing and they actually sped up the footage because it was so slow.
These are two entirely different tasks. For this reason I don’t entirely buy into any marketing that any particular saw can do this with ease.
My shop is very very small but I chose to go with the two bandsaw saw route to avoid the hassle. The resaw will remain with 1” blades for the foreseeable future and the smaller 14” saw will reside with 1/4” blades. It was a pretty expensive decision but for me I will never go back as long as I am still doing what I’m doing now. I’d rather a hot poker in the eye socket lol.
YMMV

 

I think the idea that 2 band saws is better than 1 is hardly subjective. OF COURSE that would be awesome, and superior in almost every aspect--EXCEPT space and cost. Since I already have one, and plan to get another one regardless, the cost is moot. But the space... Man, I have already filled my new space twice over in my head. Heck, I'm already going to have to downsize from the stuff I already have. Allocating space for even a small second bandsaw? If I'm honest, it's not really feasible. (my "workshop" is not 100% dedicated to woodworking, but it is getting the lions share)

Go watch a video of changing a blade on a harvey (which requires no tools) compared to, well, just about anything else (not counting those with $500 aftermarket guides). Does it make it fun? Hardly. But I think it definitely takes it out of the "PITA" realm and into the "a few minutes of drudgery" category.

 

I recently bought a new bandsaw and looked at all the models and brands. The Harvey is a great machine but expensive. I ended up getting the Rikon 14" with tool less guide setting and 13" resaw capability. It does everything I need and I have resawed 8" stock. Yes, the Harvey has extra features but is about $900 more than the Rikon. The Rikon has free shipping on Amazon while Harvey shipping is $299.

I can easily afford any saw I want but the difference in dollars is a lot and would pay for other tools. The Rikon does everything I need. The choice of tools is not easy and takes into account things other than the utility of a tool.

 

I almost bought a Davis & Wells 20" saw recently for $600. I have seen one running in person and they are sweet saws.

I really just didn't feel like dealing with the hassle. I can always find another since they are not uncommon in my area and are kind of wallflowers these days with all the guys wanting new Italian style saws.

They are heavy but not that big. Smart design. Very low vibration. The guy who showed me his was a patternmaker who told me the saw was designed by one as well.

 

I like all of that, except I really really hate the sloppy imprecise guides on old saws, with about a zero change of an aftermarket solution too. It also looks like it has a really small resaw capacity. If I had space for 2, this might make an excellent "small" bandsaw. Alas...

 

Best would be the Italian bandsaws, then German, then old American, then Polish.

The 500/600mm 20/24" is the sweet spot imho. Big enough but not huge like the 900mm / 36" saws.

Really depends on what you are looking for though.

 

Here’s a couple interesting attributes a large bandsaw has over a smaller. You can use a variety types of blades on a larger wheel thicker bands .035. Another plus is a Longer blade will last longer because they have more teeth. Its nice to have inexpensive blades for general purpose and a dedicated resaw blade as well as curve cutting blades.
I used to have a pm 14 that was a great little saw I completely removed the lower guides and didn’t not notice any difference. I had to sell it for funds to fix another more important machine.
I have no experience with a Harvey or Rikon. I did own a Laguna bandsaw 16 inch for a little while.

 

Here’s a couple interesting attributes a large bandsaw has over a smaller. You can use a variety types of blades on a larger wheel thicker bands .035. Another plus is a Longer blade it will last longer because they have more teeth. Its nice to have inexpensive blades for general purpose and a dedicated resaw blade as well as curve cutting blades.
I used to have a pm 14 that was a great little saw I completely removed the lower guides and didn’t not notice any difference. I had to sell it for funds to fix another more important machine.
I have no experience with a Harvey or Rikon. I did own a Laguna bandsaw 16 inch for a little while.

In your view, wher is larger vs smaller? Would you consider your Laguna 16" a "larger" or a "smaller" saw? My Delta 10" had a 72" blade, and my Jet 12" has a 82" blade. The 15" saws I'm looking at now seem to have about a 132" blade, and accept up to a 1" wide blade (the smaller saws only went to 3/4"). So that seems quite a bit bigger to me.

However, I haven't spent a lot of time thinking about the importance of blade thickness for my uses. I see that the Resaw King blade makes a lot of marketing hay about having a "thin-kerf", even though that seems to be the use-model that would benefit the most from a thick and stable blade...

 

I looked for a long time & got an older Jet 16" for cheap & close by. A good compromise between a newer saw with big resaw capacity & goodies but $$$, and reasonable footprint, 120v plug & play, steel frame, decent resaw height, and $.

 

I like Jet, and they are probably the most plentiful (decent) option on my local used market. So getting an older Jet has definitely been, and continues to be, one of my main options. And considering that 240v and 120v are equally "plug and play" for me, even better. Had a couple that were possible contenders, but they dried up as I was continuing to research. Of course, now that I am ready/willing to purchase, there is hardly anything. That's ok. I'm not really in a hurry. It just feels like it...

 

Blades band thicknesses can vary from .020 to .035. I think the Rk blade is .022 . I would consider a 14 inch wheel and 16 not much different because it’s connected to a frame that’s not much different. The real jump is in the 20 inch saw Frames. I can’t think of any 14 inch bandsaws that can tension a .035 band maybe if it’s 1/4 inch wide nto sure if one even exists. When I had my Pm I bought Olsen flex back blades 93 1/2 3/8 skipt .025 a very good blade about 27.00. I tried the thicker bands they cut slower, unfortunately the saws spring or frame just couldn’t tension it properly.
I would put a longer blade high on the list of a great bandsaw.

 

Just get the 615 and stick with 3/4” blades for resaw. Enjoy your new saw

 

Well, that is obviously the way I am leaning. I suppose we will see...

 

For many years I had a Rikon 18” (3HP and a noisy beast) and a Jet 12”. Blades are important, and need to matched to the saw. IMO a 3/4 is pushing it in a 14” saw, OK if the saw is stout enough to tension up a 3/4” blade. That said, you don’t need a 3/4” blade for resawing. My favorite resaw blade is the Infinity rip.

Kerf is a factor, especially in resawing. Based on my experience with a carbide blade on the Rikon(Wood master CT), I doubt I will ever buy another one, but the Resaw King looks inviting. If I have another big resaw project I’ll probably buy one.

I think the number one issue nowadays is cost. Machines have gone up dramatically, even in the last couple years.

I haven’t owned many, but the Laguna is a well made smooth running bandsaw, the fence is excellent, and it has some dust collection features that really make a difference.

I‘m not doing an advertisement for Laguna, just giving you my overall impression. The lower HP model would most likely suffice for anyone, I just like more power.

All that said, if I were a noob looking for a decent bandsaw, I’d buy an older model Delta or Rockwell 14”.

 

Thanks, this is good advice. I think you are right about 3/4" blades on a typical 14" bandsaw, most of which are only 1 to 2HP. And sure enough, the Laguna 14BX specifies a max of 3/4", even for their 220V 2.5HP version (which I would opt for as well). But the Harvey's have a 3HP motor, and their own website says they take up to a 1" blade. And the one Harvey C14 that I saw in my local used market (sold before I could buy it) had a 1" Resaw King installed. Having said all that, I still agree with you that the largest blades aren't critical for the occasional resaw.

After all this, I think I would be happy with 14-17" Harvey, Laguna, or even Jet. I have been contemplating new, but honestly, I am hoping a nice used one pops up locally, and soonish, as I will scratch this itch, one way or another, in the next couple months.

 

I'm a noob, but I just built myself a nice 10x20 workshop, and of all my floor-standing shop tools, the one tool I know is not up to par is my bandsaw. I started with a 10" Delta, and currently have an old 12" Jet. And much to my surprise, I use my bandsaw more than just about any other tool in my shop.

I upgraded it with neoprene tires, timberwolf blades, cool blocks, and a Carter Magfence. And it works pretty good for what it is, but I hate the small table, small motor, ganky guides, and imprecise everything. I just know I would do even more if I had a truly good bandsaw. For purposes of this discussion, as a pure hobbyist in a small shop, I am looking at 15-17" saws with 2-3HP motors, 240V okay, and under $3k. I actually don't mind used, and to be honest, just about faint at the thought of spending more than $1K on a single tool, but let's leave that aside for now...

Since I already have a few other Jet products (air filter, mortiser, drill press, etc), I was inclined to look at a Jet bandsaw--something like the JWBS-15-3, which I definitely like, but I was open to considering other brands like Grizzly (nice price, ********************ty resaw capacity) or Laguna (impeccable quality, but $$$). But as I kept researching, I kept coming back to Harvey.

Like many of us (I surmise), my first awareness of Harvey came from Stumpy. And as I've gone along, I have come to agree with a sentiment he expressed about the absolute criticality of the guides on a bandsaw (not just for precise cuts but for easy blade changes--which is a HUGE deal to me). And short of spending hundreds on an aftermarket solution, by golly if the Harvey isn't the ONLY saw that comes with tool-less roller-bearing guides that I wouldn't want to replace! It also seems like it meets or beats the others in every feature I care about too! (e.g. big tilting rust proof table, 3HP motor, 14" resaw capacity, foot brake). It even includes their nifty COMPASS RG-2 Roller Guide.

The C14 Pro was on sale for $1800 last week, and the HW615 Pro is on sale for $2300 (ends today). I would be happy with either, except the price, which still makes my heart palpitate.

Yes, I realize that any of these machines is overkill for my needs and talents, but I love the feel of a quality tool, and the knowledge that if I want to do something, the only thing determining the quality of the finished product is my skill, not the quality of my tool. Yes, I know, true pros can make materpieces using crappy tools--that is SO the opposite of my point... I am okay with making a mediocre product because I didn't know how to very well. But I get super disappointed if I make a mediocre product because I was struggling even with basic tasks, due to a cheap tool. In short, I understand that an expensive tool doesn't make you great, but a quality tool definitely helps you do your best.

Anyway, as of now, I am inclined to wait and think about it more, but in the meantime, I guess I just wanted advice from other more experienced woodworkers. Am I missing anything? Am I making too big a deal about the guides? Cause the Jet, Laguna, and grizzley guides all look vastly inferior to me.

Lots of folks here suggest finding an old Northfield or Crescent. That would be interesting, but may require a lot of restoration (bearings, guides, tires, wheel balance, motor work, etc.). When you're done you'll have a great saw. It may be too big for shop, and the restoration will cost a lot of money. I have the Harvey Alpha. It's different from other Asian-manufactured tools. It's well thought out and isn't a clone of anything. It takes some ideas from other saws, but that's largely because Harvey made those other saws for other companies and thought that they could do a better overall product. As for the Harvey Alpha being "a little heavier than the Laguna 14/12" It's actually heavier than the Powermatic 1500. It's a beast. The only problem I've had with mine was that the cursor on the fence broke. It could be better designed. And I would like a feature where it won't switch on when the blade is detensioned. But they replaced the cursor by express mail, and if you use the tool properly, you never try to turn it on when detensioned.

But the feature that turned me to the Harvey Alpha over the Powermatic 1500 was that to use a blade stabilizer with the 1500, you have to completely replace the blade guides and put Carter guides in. That's per Carter. So with the Harvey, you buy a stabilizer and you're done. With the Powermatic, you buy a $500 guide set, and a stabilizer. I couldn't justify it.

Also, some shops simply won't support a big saw like the old Northfields or Tannewitzes, or even a modern 18" or 20" saw. These tools have a big footprint. The Harvey Alpha gets you most of what you get with a big saw, in a smaller footprint, so you don't have to give up a sharpening station or something else important. And the 3 HP motor gives twice the power of the 20" Rockwell I learned on in college.