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CNC Chevalet #3: Got my work cut out for me...GET IT?

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Blog entry by zombolina posted 505 days ago 956 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Robots do my bidding Part 3 of CNC Chevalet series Part 4: Gluefest, a.k.a. Never Enough Clamps »

Today I thought I’d stop cutting after the second sheet in order to put the puzzle together to see what we have. Here is the front foot:

And the rest fit together so far, although I might reshape the seat once it’s glued up.

It’s fun to see all of the pockets and bolt holes being drilled in the passes before the profiles; the only thing I couldn’t do on the shopbot was the angled pocket where the back supports joins the underside of the seat. Planning on doing that on the table saw.

Having fun making some dust!

Next glueing the parts together..layer by layer, as I can’t think of another way to do it without having them slide out of alignment…unless anyone has any other ideas. :-)

-- Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm. -Winston Churchill



5 comments so far

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4759 posts in 2483 days


#1 posted 505 days ago

This is so much fun to watch. Having done crazy things like this myself, I can really appreciate the irony.

Titebond will tack-up in about 20 minutes, so your build up should go pretty quickly. You could shoot some brads to help in the temporary clamping stage, but it might be nice not to have those brads to find at a later date.

I love it,
Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4843 posts in 1399 days


#2 posted 505 days ago

It’s not too late to add the dowels. Yes, it would have been nice to have them robo-drilled but it would be easy to set up quick jigs on a drill press and locate identically placed holes in adjoining pieces.
I also agree about the Tightbond…. this is a gluing-intensive project that will use the stuff up quickly for you so you can get on to the good stuff. :-)

About the saw frame, I think you will want to make it out of “real” wood. It needs to be strong in some quite thin areas (around the blade clamp holes) and springy to provide the tensioning. I’ve got bubinga on mine in BC and osage orange here in AZ. They both work well but most hardwoods should. Consider whether you want a heavier saw, or a lighter saw and choose your wood accordingly.

Good luck, looks really good so far.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View Mathew Nedeljko's profile

Mathew Nedeljko

585 posts in 2431 days


#3 posted 505 days ago

Having fun watching your progress Sally. Looks like it is going to go together just fine.

Agree with the others, this is going to be glue intensive so get yourself a gallon of good old titebond and have at it.

In addition to Paul’s advice about the sawframe being made of wood, you might want to think about the spring clamp being made out of wood as well. I’m not sure what kind of spring action you will get out of plywood for this component.

Very interersting, keep going! You will have this done in no time.

-- Aim high. Ride easy. Trust God. Neale Donald Walsch

View stefang's profile

stefang

12588 posts in 1935 days


#4 posted 505 days ago

Nice to have a robot slave to do the hard work, although gluing stuff up isn’t exactly fun either. This is coming along great. I’m having fun watching it progress. Maybe now that you have the program, you could sell kits to other marqueteers.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View zombolina's profile

zombolina

18 posts in 598 days


#5 posted 504 days ago

Thanks for all of the advice! Have to go buy some more clamps… :-)

-- Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm. -Winston Churchill

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