Getting Started #1: Old Tools

I’m going to guess a stanley #1 plane, but clean it up a little bit, and check out:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html to figure it out..hard to tell from that pick, but it’s pretty much gotta be somewhere between a #1 and a #3 I think.

Pic 5: from top to bottom, looks like a couple of crosscut saws, a keyhole saw, and either a tenon saw or a dovetail saw, depending on whether it cuts on the front stroke or back stroke…dovetail would be my guess, and it cuts on the pull.

Keyhole saws: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyhole_saw

Welcome to LJ!

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - Unknown Shaker

Hey Will,
Thanks for the info. I didn’t even think about a key hole saw and I have one of those myself (it has a straight handle though, not the grip handle).

I definitely plan on cleaning these up and saving them. If for no other reason than to hang them on the wall. My grandfathers initials/name is etched into the handle of a couple of them.

zeddicus,
Similar Stanley planes like this, always has a number, a patent date or any inscription somewhere (castings, blade, lateral adj. lever, brass adj. wheel)
The plane looks very descent and nice to me, very similar to a BIRMINGHAM I bought recently, but even that one had an inscription on top of the blade….
What are thedimensions of this plane?
Do you have a picture of the Lateral Adjusment lever? (the steel bar at the top of the frog)

The most important suggestion I would make for you is this : Do not clean the plane! it has a nice layer of patina, it’s an antique tool and it looks great with its own time….
0000 steel wool and Butcher’s wax would leave the tool nice and clean.

-- Francisco Luna, San Francisco Bay Area.

yeah, i didn’t look closely, but if it turns out to be a #1 (as suggested above) it might be worth enough to buy you a whole set of brand new top quality planes to actually work with. get some measurements and find out what you’ve got based on the dimensions and markings.

I posted a reply on TWW forum about the table saw. Its a Delta Homecraft 8 inch table saw. probably could use 7 1/2 inch blades if you wanted new blades because I think you can find 8 inch any longer. I have been hoping to have one come across CL sometime. The safety equipment on most new table saws in my opinion dont do much for you. The best thing is to practice safe usage. The only table saw on the market I deem safe is the Saw Stop.
http://www.owwm.com/mfgindex/pubdetail.aspx?id=1016

-- Got Wood?

Well, there’s two ways of looking at restoring a plane…one is to keep it natural, the other is to make it as functional and cared for of a tool as possible without worrying about history. Personally, I chose to fix up my stanley planes which I picked up at an estate sale following the death of a family friend after which the lawyers packed it all up and sold it off to the public. I wanted a tool, not an antique, and I also felt that restoring Bob’s plane was a better tribute than not. Perhaps it would be different if the previous owner was anonymous, but to leave the “patina” seemed to me to dishonor Bob. I know there’s a lot, perhaps the majority of people with old stanleys who feel very different, and to clean one up is a crime to them. But this was Bob’s plane. It’s all I really have of Bob.

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - Unknown Shaker

Just to clarify, I agree with Will 99.99% of the time, but in the event I came accross a #1 or a good quality #2, that’s where I’d disagree. My #3 is already so small it’s tough to use for a whole lot, so I can’t imagine a 1 or 2 being useful. if it is worth it to save for sentimental reasons, thats one things, but unless you’ve got money to burn, I wouldn’t be using it. just my opinion. Make sure to post what your research turns up! We are all anxious to hear what you find out.

hmm, interesting point! I don’t own anything smaller in a stanley than my old #5, so I wouldn’t know whether or not a stanley #1 would be worth it…that said, I don’t spend anything really on refinishing, as I take it apart, soak really rusty parts in evaporust overnight, polish with a wire wheel set in a drill, then hit with wax afterwards…cleans up very nicely, pretty much free. Thus far I’ve been ok with the original irons, I’ve been lucky.

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - Unknown Shaker

That table saw is definatly a keeper. Thats an old 8” Builders saw ( Contractor’s saw in the early years ) Everything looks pretty complete and in good shape, with a cast wing even. That can be a honey of a little saw with a Fenner Drives Powertwist link belt on it. Great little saw for the person thats cramped on shop space, or use as a dedicated dado saw. They don’t build the small saws like this anymore. Here is a 9” version of that saw that I had.

nice rockwell I like the older saws love the way they were built.

-- Got Wood?

It’s your plane and you are free to “restore” it at the way you want, I was just giving you some tips Galoots do with old tools.

-- Francisco Luna, San Francisco Bay Area.

Thanks for all the feedback. I am definitely going to look into restoring my plane as it was my grandfathers and I think he would have really gotten a kick out of having me use it. I understand the idea of keeping an old tool the way it is too though, this just has sentimental connections to it. It’s also the only plane I own and looking at the current prices, the only one I will own for a while.

Thank you also for the information on these tools. I am going to think more about restoring the old table saw now. I had no idea there would be so many of these out there and still in working order. The fence looks pretty busted up though, so i’m not sure I can use that. Perhaps something else will fit?

I just picked up my first Planer today too. A guy on TWW was selling his old one and the price fit (and he also lives close to me). It’s a Delta TP305 12 1/2” which I understand has some snipe issues, but for now will be just fine.

Now on to research more restorative options.

~Z

Be careful ! A number one stanley is fairly rare. If it is a Stanley and doesn’t have a number cast on the body then it is probably a number one. If so it is a collectors item “cleaning it up” could hurt it’s value.

Here is a link to Patricks blood and gore

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

I have another newer Rockwell 9” that has a Unifence on it, that bolted up fairly easily, I had to drill the fence in two spots. I’ve seen Unifences go for as little as $150. The thing about these saws is they are smaller in physical size than a 10” Contractor’s saw ( top 30” W X 25” D ) that most aftermarket fences are made for, the 9” Contractor’s saw ( 25” W X 20” D ). The tops have less distance between front and back., so you need a shorter fence unless you don’t mind the new fence hanging out over the back. The Unifence only has one rail, the front rail, some fences have a front and back rail, I’d think you’d want to stick with a single rail fence system, with a fence that can be cut down.

I am still not finding much on my Plane. It doesn’t say Stanley anywhere on it and it seems like it should be pretty obvious from the pictures of Stanley planes I’ve seen.

It does have this symbol on the side (I am not an artist and the rubbing didn’t turn out because it’s just too worn). There is something written in the middle, but I can’t make it out.

have you already taken the measurements? That seems to be one of the easiest ways to figure out whether its a number 1 or not. If not, it should give you a good approximation of the stanely equivalent.

The measurement from the front to the back of the bottom of the plane is 10 1/4”

zeddicus,
First of all, you want to keep the plane for personal reasons….right?

Ok, so now it does’t matter who make it….

BUT WAIT, we can know if it is a well-made tool….

Ansewr this questions please:
1.Is the stirrup shaped yoke that straddles the depth adjustment wheel made of stamped and bent
sheet steel – OR – made of sturdier cast iron???

2.Is the lateral adjustment lever made of sheet metal twisted into two planes, without a wheel on the end
where it engages the slot in the blade?????

3.How is supported the frog??? Does it have a adjustment screw??

4.What kind of wood was used for the Tote and front knob??? The best planes were made with
knobs and totes of rosewood or cocobolo. Lesser ones used beech or other
domestic hardwoods, or later, plastic. However, some of the top of the line
planes, like the Stanley scrub planes always had beech. Poorly rounded totes are also often a sign of lessor quality

-- Francisco Luna, San Francisco Bay Area.

well, the bad news is that if its 10” long, its not a #1. I think those are less than 6” long believe it or not. I think my block plance might be longer. I guess you don’t have $1,000 sitting there.

The good news is that now you are probably free to do what you want with it. It sounds like the equivalent to a number 4 (or maybe a 5), so a great user for all sorts of things. I think doubthead is hitting all the key points. you may want to search “plane restoration” or maybe even “electrolysis” on this page. I got lots of great info by doing that. Maybe it will even clean things up enough to read more of the markings.

From the drawing of the logo, I would say it’s a Zenith brand from Marshall Wells Hdwe. (1894-1960) Duluth MN. It was proably made for them by one of the major plane makers. I’d guess Sargent. It may have a
East India Mahogany tote and knob. With the bead at the base of the front knob, probably early 1900s. There should be a number behing the frog or maybe on the blade/cutter.

Tried to upload a picture of a 1910 catalog page for Marshall Wells Zenith planes but the host must be having problems. Sorry Anyway that’s what it is.

http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/3742207/aview/zenith.JPG

Thank you very much timbo2. From what I can see that looks like the exact same logo. I’m going to search around a bit more and see if I can find the model/year or anything else.