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Office Credenza

12K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  SPHinTampa 
#1 ·
Starting Off - Design and Materials

This project has been a long time in the making. After staring at the boxes stacked up in our office for a year, it's high time to get a credenza and bookcase going.

This project is complete, but I'll do my best to detail the build process…a first for me!

First, a look at a general sketch of what I'm shooting for.

Cabinetry Wood Rectangle Chest of drawers Shelf


Next up, I started designing the lower credenza unit in SketchUp.

Table Cabinetry Furniture Chest of drawers Drawer


Originally, I wanted to make this whole unit out of solid black walnut, but as I designed things and played the build process in my head, reality set in. Plywood would be a must because I didn't have the time required for a full solid-wood build.

With the design in-hand, it was off to the lumberyard for black walnut and veneered plywood.



 

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#2 ·
Build Process - Bones

I had the good fortune to nab a new (better!) job at the end of January. I set up my start date so I'd have a good couple of weeks off…for woodworking of course!

Starting the build, I decided to make the car carcass with 3 boxes. Sides are all 3/4 walnut ply and the back is just 1/4" for all of the strength. Each step of the process, I would go back to my SketchUp model and print off my cut lists to ensure I get everything right.

Set up table saw for 8'x2' cuts:



Parts Cut



Cut list



Dados all done



Boxes were assembled with glue and brads



I decided to make a subframe to support the whole unit. SYP was used here.



Now I can assemble the boxes on the subframe





Fun stuff! Starting to get a feel for how massive this thing will be in real life :)
 
#4 ·
Face Frame

Again, back to SketchUp to make sure I've got my cuts right.



BTW, boxes were attached to the subframe with glue and brads. Boxes were joined to each other with screws, with all screws concealed in the outside sections which will have doors.



Shelves will have an exposed plywood edge, so time to rip thin strips for coverup.



Attach the banding



Face frame is pretty straight forward pocket-screw construction.



All assembled. You'll notice that I cut a couple of supports short. Mistake, yes, but they will be covered by a footing later, so no biggie.



Decided that the shelves will need extra support so I made some center supports.



That's all on this one!
 
#5 ·
Book-matched Panels

I had a very specific look I was going for on the doors. I wanted tiger maple that had a lot of color variation…either through spalting or through heartwood/sapwood transition. After perusing ebay for a couple of days, I found what I was looking for: an 8'x8"x1" piece of tiger maple with heartwood/sapwood. That way I could use the same piece for all 4 doors!

First, I cut it into 2' lengths, ready for resawing



Set up the bandsaw

Miter saw Automotive design Engineering Machine Office equipment


How's this going to look?



Now joint them side by side and check for gaps



Glue up



Plane down to 3/8", sand and a light coat of BLO to see how they'll look



All 4 ready for doors!

 

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#6 ·
Book-matched Panels

I had a very specific look I was going for on the doors. I wanted tiger maple that had a lot of color variation…either through spalting or through heartwood/sapwood transition. After perusing ebay for a couple of days, I found what I was looking for: an 8'x8"x1" piece of tiger maple with heartwood/sapwood. That way I could use the same piece for all 4 doors!

First, I cut it into 2' lengths, ready for resawing



Set up the bandsaw

Miter saw Automotive design Engineering Machine Office equipment


How's this going to look?



Now joint them side by side and check for gaps



Glue up



Plane down to 3/8", sand and a light coat of BLO to see how they'll look



All 4 ready for doors!

Boy did that grain pop… looks amazing!
 

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#7 ·
Trim and Doors

Time to get the trim pieces made.

First up is the cove molding that will go under the top.





The toe plate will have a 3/4" round over and is about 4" wide.



To seat the toe plate, I milled an 8' stick of maple which will be the same thickness as the face frame.



Installed



While we're at it, need to fix up the face frame with the hand plane.



Install the toe plate with screws through the sub frame



Cove Installed



For the top, I'm adding another piece of plywood on top, screwed and glued from the bottom. I'll trim the sides with rounded over solid wood. To ensure the fit is good, I'm adding a 1/4"x1/4" rabbit. A marking wheel helps ensure a crisp line before I take the router through.













Use the dado stack to cut a rabbit in the mating piece.





Miter and attach







Round over with the router







Doors are plain rail/stile



Rough fit!



That's it here!
 
#9 ·
Done!

Some glory shots.

BTW…I used magnets countersunk through the back of the centerposts and metal disks on the doors for closure.

Finish is Danish oil followed by many coats of wipe on poly. Start to finish was about 5 weeks of evening work. I'm completely happy with the outcome!



























Hope you enjoyed!!
 
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