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Viking Chest #2: Wood hinges, need your thoughts

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Blog entry by Rick M. posted 04-10-2014 05:01 PM 1085 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Prototype in recycled pine Part 2 of Viking Chest series Part 3: Worst carving ever and jigs are good. »

Did some experimenting with wood hinges. Both have 5 fingers, one is 1/4”, the other is 3/8”. The narrower size looks better on the chest but I’m trying to decide between 5 – 1/4” fingers, or 3 – 3/8” fingers. (See 3rd & 4th pics) I want it to be strong but also look nice and I have no experience with wood hinges. Both look pretty good but the 3 finger hinge is easier to make. And I’m planning on using a 1/4” maple dowel as a hinge pin—strong enough? The final hinges will be made from ash (pine box) or walnut (oak box).

Mock up of 3 fingers @ 3/8”.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|



8 comments so far

View Hammerthumb's profile

Hammerthumb

1287 posts in 630 days


#1 posted 04-10-2014 05:15 PM

I like the 3 fingers at 3/8”. I think they would be stronger. Also, maybe some brass rod for the hinge pins as they will wear better and look nicer.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

View johnhutchinson's profile

johnhutchinson

626 posts in 284 days


#2 posted 04-10-2014 06:26 PM

I’ve been purchasing what’s called “sanded maple dowel” at a local REAL hardware store, and they’re perfect for hinges because they’re downsized by 1/64”. There’s just enough clearance for glue on the outsides and rotation on the inside. They’re also incredibly strong and smooth as glass.

-- John - Central Ohio - "too much is never enough"

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3971 posts in 1035 days


#3 posted 04-10-2014 06:26 PM

Hammerthumb, those are my thoughts. Reading about wood hinges I found a lot about how to make the fingers, a little about how to position the hinge pin, but almost nothing about finger thickness or how many. I have some brass rod so for the oak version I’ll probably use that.

John, those are the same dowels I used for the mock ups. They work very smoothly especially after a coating of wax. I’ll definitely use those in the practice chest and see how they hold up.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4971 posts in 1453 days


#4 posted 04-10-2014 06:56 PM

Have you seen these.
They are integral to the box so there is no visible bump.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3971 posts in 1035 days


#5 posted 04-10-2014 08:24 PM

I did actually, very nice work. The original chest had strap iron hinges and while I’m not doing a reproduction, an external hinge fits the design better.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View kiefer's profile

kiefer

3070 posts in 1322 days


#6 posted 04-11-2014 12:05 AM

How about a leather hinge I think it would work in real nice and fit the type and style of box .
I have used them on several boxes and they work real nice .

-- Kiefer 松

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10874 posts in 1345 days


#7 posted 04-11-2014 12:44 AM

I like both of your hinge prototypes but I would recommend brass or steel pins as they don’t swell and won’t accidentally get glued in place. I cap the holes with wood so the metal doesn’t show.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View doubleDD's profile

doubleDD

2459 posts in 698 days


#8 posted 04-11-2014 02:32 AM

I like the 3/8’’ hinge. Of course that could depend on the size of the build. Leaving the dowel extend as in picture 3 gives me some good ideas.

-- --Dave, Downers Grove, Il. When you run out of ideas, start building your dreams

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