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#1 ·
First you gotta do some thinking...and find iron

During the recent posting by Bertha on the hand planes of our dreams, the issue of wooden shoulder planes came up. I had some requests and PM's to blog on the making of a wooden shoulder plane so I will give it my best shot. Be warned, I work in the metric system so measurements are in millimeters. For those who use King George's thumb to measure, dividing by 25.4 will at least give decimal inches. I'll gladly answer any question but have patience: No computer will survive in my dusty workshop and I spend all my days there. It means that my computer habits are such that I only sit in front of this screen at night. Throw in the time difference and my response times get pretty slow, about once every 24 hours…..but respond I will. Promise.

Just so you know where we are going, this is what we want to end up with:

Musical instrument Wood String instrument accessory Ruler Office ruler


As you can see, this is not a very big plane, only around 115 mm (4,5") long. I've been into building smaller and smaller planes lately…

Some planning and scavenging for a plane iron.

The first thing to do is to decide on the width of the plane, or maybe the width of the plane iron will decide for us…. Since the width of the plane iron or blade will determine the width of the wooden plane body, we need to find ourselves an iron first. There are various ways to do this. If you live in the States, it can be as simple as buying the one that you want. If you don't have much money or you live in Africa like me, that option does not exist and you need to get creative. There are a few ways to skin the cat.

1. Find an old plane iron and cut out of it what you want. If you choose to go this route, use an angle grinder fitted with a slim cutting disc. Keep the iron as cool as possible whilst cutting; do it in steps and submerge the blade often in cold water to prevent it from heating up. Too much heat will alter the properties of the steel.

2. Use an old spade drill bit. Since the round shaft needs to be flat and the same thickness as the spade part, this method requires a lot of grinding. Again, keep the steel as cool as possible during the grinding process.

3. Use old HSS jointer or planer knifes. I've been going this route lately with much success. A big advantage with HSS is that it can be cut and ground without concern over altering the materials properties due to excessive heat. Even if it becomes red hot, no worries! Some will say that it is too hard for a plane blade and in a way they are right. You won't be able to hone an extremely fine edge like you can with good tool steel. But believe me, for what we want to do it is good enough. More benefits of the HSS are that it will stay sharp for much longer and the stuff is nice and thick, typically 3mm. Thick is good!
A disadvantage of using old jointer knifes is that they are never very wide; we are after all talking about worn out cutters. I've been making lots of small planes of late so it not a problem for me. If you don't have worn out knifes in your shop, ask at a sharpening service or a large commercial woodworking shop.

The plane body - what wood to use.
Although Beech was traditionally much used for planes, any good hardwood will do just fine. I've used Maple, Paduak, Wenge, Purpleheart and some of our indigenous woods like Ironwood, Pink Ivory and Candlewood. It is best, but not critical, to have the growth rings running vertical in your plane body. This makes for a better wearing plane. You can even get fancy and add a sole of different wood, or something exotic and hardwearing like ebony or ivory. Yes, I know there is a moral issue with ivory and it's impossible to find. Or not? Old pianos had real ivory on their keys. Keep your eyes open for a scrapped piano! I have some ivory pieces obtained that way.You can also use bone but that is a story for another time…

I leave you to go hunting for some metal and some timber….next we get down to building this thing!
 

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#81 ·
Let's make us an iron!

If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!

We have made a plane body and it is looking pretty good! Time to do some metalwork.
This is what we want to achieve:

Ruler Office ruler Wood Tool Rectangle


At the top is the finished plane iron, below is the material I made it from; an old HSS jointer knife.
There are four dimensions that concern us:
1. Blade width.
2. Blade length.
3. Tang width.
4. Tang length.

BLADE WIDTH.

Rectangle Purple Violet Font Magenta


The blade width needs to be a little wider than the width of our finished plane body. Measure the body width and add a wee bit, say 1/16". It can always be fine tuned later on. In the end the blade needs to stick out just a teeny bit past the edge of the plane on each side.

BLADE LENGTH

Textile Art Magenta Petal Pattern


Blade length is determined by measuring the distance as shown in the photo. It is the length of the exposed ramp or landing that was so carefully flattened when we built the plane body.

TANG WIDTH.

Tie Purple Sleeve Violet Jersey


The width of our tang must be a little less than that of the tenon or opening. Theoretically it can be a sliding fit but then everything must be perfectly square and centre. By making this fit a little loose we get some lateral or sideways adjustment. This will ensure that the blade can be set parallel to the sole with equal amounts protruding past the sides.
The 3mm (1/8") difference as shown in the photo will be too much for a real narrow plane like the one I've made here (5/8"width). I think it would be fine for a larger plane. If in doubt, make it only 1/16th, it is easy to grind more at a later stage if necessary.

TANG LENGTH.

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Obviously it needs to be long enough to go through the plane! It also needs to stick out past the wedge for ease of adjustment. As always, rather make it longer. Again, it is easy to shorten at a later stage, once you are used to the plane.

Font Blank media Electronic device Circle Data storage device


Once all these dimensions are obtained, mark them out on your blade material. Make sure the tang is centered! The HSS I used is hard stuff and nothing I have in the shop will scratch it for marking. I also couldn't find something that would write on it. I covered it with masking tape for easy marking.
I cut with a 4" slim cutting disc in a baby angle grinder. The beauty of HSS is that you don't have to worry about heat; it doesn't affect the material's properties. If you are working on an old plane blade, cut slowly and cool often with water. You don't want the steel to get hot!

Hood Stairs Wood Fender Automotive tire


Once cut, clean the edges on a disc sander or grinding wheel. Ensure that the edges are straight, square and parallel to each other. Time to check the blade for fit in the plane and adjust by more grinding if necessary. You might need to ease the shoulders of the blade for a good fit. Then grind the primary bevel to 25 degrees. I do this on a bench grinder with shop made adjustable rest to get the angle perfect.

If you are using carbon steel, KEEP COOL! Not you, the steel :^) Have a container with water handy and dip very often.

Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades


A few swipes on my whetstone to establish the secondary bevel, some polishing with the strop and we are done! I know some likes to use sandpaper for sharpening. Whatever works for you!

Next we'll make the wedge and fine tune our plane. In the meantime, why don't you shave with your new blade tomorrow morning!
 

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#82 ·
Let's make us an iron!

If this is happening a little too slow for your liking, it is because I have to make sawdust all day long to keep the wolf from the door. That is 10 hours gone. Making these little planes and blogging about it is mostly a night time affair, after taking care of normal daily chores and duties!

We have made a plane body and it is looking pretty good! Time to do some metalwork.
This is what we want to achieve:

Ruler Office ruler Wood Tool Rectangle


At the top is the finished plane iron, below is the material I made it from; an old HSS jointer knife.
There are four dimensions that concern us:
1. Blade width.
2. Blade length.
3. Tang width.
4. Tang length.

BLADE WIDTH.

Rectangle Purple Violet Font Magenta


The blade width needs to be a little wider than the width of our finished plane body. Measure the body width and add a wee bit, say 1/16". It can always be fine tuned later on. In the end the blade needs to stick out just a teeny bit past the edge of the plane on each side.

BLADE LENGTH

Textile Art Magenta Petal Pattern


Blade length is determined by measuring the distance as shown in the photo. It is the length of the exposed ramp or landing that was so carefully flattened when we built the plane body.

TANG WIDTH.

Tie Purple Sleeve Violet Jersey


The width of our tang must be a little less than that of the tenon or opening. Theoretically it can be a sliding fit but then everything must be perfectly square and centre. By making this fit a little loose we get some lateral or sideways adjustment. This will ensure that the blade can be set parallel to the sole with equal amounts protruding past the sides.
The 3mm (1/8") difference as shown in the photo will be too much for a real narrow plane like the one I've made here (5/8"width). I think it would be fine for a larger plane. If in doubt, make it only 1/16th, it is easy to grind more at a later stage if necessary.

TANG LENGTH.

Outerwear Sleeve Collar Font Magenta


Obviously it needs to be long enough to go through the plane! It also needs to stick out past the wedge for ease of adjustment. As always, rather make it longer. Again, it is easy to shorten at a later stage, once you are used to the plane.

Font Blank media Electronic device Circle Data storage device


Once all these dimensions are obtained, mark them out on your blade material. Make sure the tang is centered! The HSS I used is hard stuff and nothing I have in the shop will scratch it for marking. I also couldn't find something that would write on it. I covered it with masking tape for easy marking.
I cut with a 4" slim cutting disc in a baby angle grinder. The beauty of HSS is that you don't have to worry about heat; it doesn't affect the material's properties. If you are working on an old plane blade, cut slowly and cool often with water. You don't want the steel to get hot!

Hood Stairs Wood Fender Automotive tire


Once cut, clean the edges on a disc sander or grinding wheel. Ensure that the edges are straight, square and parallel to each other. Time to check the blade for fit in the plane and adjust by more grinding if necessary. You might need to ease the shoulders of the blade for a good fit. Then grind the primary bevel to 25 degrees. I do this on a bench grinder with shop made adjustable rest to get the angle perfect.

If you are using carbon steel, KEEP COOL! Not you, the steel :^) Have a container with water handy and dip very often.

Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades


A few swipes on my whetstone to establish the secondary bevel, some polishing with the strop and we are done! I know some likes to use sandpaper for sharpening. Whatever works for you!

Next we'll make the wedge and fine tune our plane. In the meantime, why don't you shave with your new blade tomorrow morning!
Looks very nice Div. Thanks again for putting all of this together.
 

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#98 ·
Let's wedge it!

It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..

The last part to be made is the wedge. Just a simple piece of wood but with a very important function! Not only does it hold the blade firmly in position, it also acts as a chip breaker of sorts.

Terrestrial plant Font Rectangle Magenta Fashion accessory


Remember when we made the plane body (Part II) there was this little off cut piece to be saved? This gives us the exact angle for our wedge. What, you can't find it? Well, all is not lost except a fair amount of fiddling to establish that angle again. The angle of the wedge is important. Look what happens if it is not right:

WEDGE ANGLE TOO HIGH.

Wood Purple Terrestrial plant Rectangle Font


If the wedge angle is too high, there is only contact between the wedge and the plane body at the top of the tenon. Because the blade is now not supported near the mouth, chatter lies ahead! You will not be happy with the performance of your plane!

WEDGE ANGLE TOO LOW.

Wood Natural material Terrestrial plant Font Triangle


If the wedge angle is too low, there is only contact between the wedge and plane body at the bottom of the tenon. This is better than above, at least the blade is supported near the mouth. Since the blade is not supported/wedged all the way it will never be wedged firmly. With a wedge not making full contact, the plane will continuously need adjustment; the blade will keep slipping and won't stay where you want it, especially if you hit a knot or some difficult grain. Better to get that angle just right!

A FEW POINTERS WHEN MAKING THE WEDGE.

Purple Wood Sleeve Violet Magenta


1. If you want, make the wedge from a different contrasting piece of wood. Just be sure you have the grain running length wise.
2. Shape, carve or otherwise embellish the fat end as you feel. The IMPORTANT thing is to have the blade go past the end of the wedge for ease in adjustment.
3. I should have mentioned this earlier. Some roughness on the plane bed/landing is good; it helps to increase friction for holding the blade tightly. Same goes for the wedge. Leave it natural and unfinished for the same reason. Oil only that highly decorative carving that you spent so much time on! (This for Bertha!)

Sleeve Wood Font Magenta Tints and shades


4. See where the wedge ends? It needs to be some distance back from the mouth. Cut off where required and gently round over the end to help the shavings glide over it.

Musical instrument Magenta Quill Font Cutlery


5. Here is a little secret that Mads discovered by himself whilst having his coffee, with pipe and tobacco, no doubt! Hollow the bottom face of the wedge very lightly, along the length. This little trick helps greatly in supplying compression in all the right places. We want the wedge to hold the blade firmly, especially near the mouth. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Not having good compression near the mouth is the most common cause of a chattering or badly performing plane!

OK, my wife wants me to watch a DVD with her. I'm already in trouble with the "boss" about spending too much time on LJ's :^( Next, we will fine-tune our plane. Still to come is an installment on properly adjusting the set of the blade. Finally, we will look at ways to turbo charge a wooden shoulder plane! Stay tuned!
 

Attachments

#99 ·
Let's wedge it!

It makes me REAL happy to see that some guys have been inspired to make their own planes! For that reason, I will patiently bear the slowness of my backwater farm style dial up connection…..

The last part to be made is the wedge. Just a simple piece of wood but with a very important function! Not only does it hold the blade firmly in position, it also acts as a chip breaker of sorts.

Terrestrial plant Font Rectangle Magenta Fashion accessory


Remember when we made the plane body (Part II) there was this little off cut piece to be saved? This gives us the exact angle for our wedge. What, you can't find it? Well, all is not lost except a fair amount of fiddling to establish that angle again. The angle of the wedge is important. Look what happens if it is not right:

WEDGE ANGLE TOO HIGH.

Wood Purple Terrestrial plant Rectangle Font


If the wedge angle is too high, there is only contact between the wedge and the plane body at the top of the tenon. Because the blade is now not supported near the mouth, chatter lies ahead! You will not be happy with the performance of your plane!

WEDGE ANGLE TOO LOW.

Wood Natural material Terrestrial plant Font Triangle


If the wedge angle is too low, there is only contact between the wedge and plane body at the bottom of the tenon. This is better than above, at least the blade is supported near the mouth. Since the blade is not supported/wedged all the way it will never be wedged firmly. With a wedge not making full contact, the plane will continuously need adjustment; the blade will keep slipping and won't stay where you want it, especially if you hit a knot or some difficult grain. Better to get that angle just right!

A FEW POINTERS WHEN MAKING THE WEDGE.

Purple Wood Sleeve Violet Magenta


1. If you want, make the wedge from a different contrasting piece of wood. Just be sure you have the grain running length wise.
2. Shape, carve or otherwise embellish the fat end as you feel. The IMPORTANT thing is to have the blade go past the end of the wedge for ease in adjustment.
3. I should have mentioned this earlier. Some roughness on the plane bed/landing is good; it helps to increase friction for holding the blade tightly. Same goes for the wedge. Leave it natural and unfinished for the same reason. Oil only that highly decorative carving that you spent so much time on! (This for Bertha!)

Sleeve Wood Font Magenta Tints and shades


4. See where the wedge ends? It needs to be some distance back from the mouth. Cut off where required and gently round over the end to help the shavings glide over it.

Musical instrument Magenta Quill Font Cutlery


5. Here is a little secret that Mads discovered by himself whilst having his coffee, with pipe and tobacco, no doubt! Hollow the bottom face of the wedge very lightly, along the length. This little trick helps greatly in supplying compression in all the right places. We want the wedge to hold the blade firmly, especially near the mouth. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Not having good compression near the mouth is the most common cause of a chattering or badly performing plane!

OK, my wife wants me to watch a DVD with her. I'm already in trouble with the "boss" about spending too much time on LJ's :^( Next, we will fine-tune our plane. Still to come is an installment on properly adjusting the set of the blade. Finally, we will look at ways to turbo charge a wooden shoulder plane! Stay tuned!
Hi my dear Div.
Thank you for another wonderful and informative blog in this inspireing series (100 times better than watching tv). Mathilde (my daughter) and I watced slumdog millionaire tonight and that was a wonderful movie though.
And after saying goodnight to you now I will go and see the movie Beautiful, that I have been looking forward to see for a while.
In my country we say 'need learns the nakid woman to spun', so yes I figured out the hollowing of the wedge.
The very best of my thoughts,
Send my love to M and say I look at Caroline every day now with a smile thanks to her.
Mads
 

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#111 ·
Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?

Musical instrument Wood String instrument accessory Ruler Office ruler


Body done, wedge done, plane iron done. If you are anything like me, eagerness to see some shavings has replaced all other desires at this stage! With a bit of luck, paper thin shavings will be curling out of the mouth. Isn't it great! If not, don't despair….

LET'S FINE TUNE:

1. True the plane sole. This is done with the blade in place but well away from the mouth and the wedge set up tightly as it would be in use. Why? With the wedge set, our plane is in "tension". The wood actually distorts a little, especially just behind the iron.
Clamp a long strip of sandpaper to the table saw top or, if you really want to be fancy, stick it onto a piece of float glass. With little more pressure than the weight of the plane, take a light pass and have a look at the sole. Any high spots will reveal themselves as abraded areas. Usually there will be one just behind the iron. Continue sanding with a light touch, checking on progress often, until the entire sole has been evenly abraded. Take off only the minimum; the more we take off, the more we open the mouth. We don't want that!

How do I get the wedge out?

So you whacked the wedge in tightly, the sole is beautifully true and now we can't get the frigging wedge out! Like many things, it is easy, if you know how. Give the back end of the plane a firm tap or two with a small hammer (4-6 oz.) A little brass hammer will be perfect for this.

Font Quill Circle Magenta Art


2. With the iron in place, have a look at the mouth. Ideally, we want the opening the same as the thickness of a shaving. If it is too tight, carefully file with a needle file or similar. Angle the file so the opening is not parallel to the blade when looking from the side. At the same time, ensure that the opening remains parallel to the blade when viewed from the bottom.

3. Check the width of the plane body against the width of the blade. Ideally the blade should protrude just a wee bit on either side. Either reduce the blade width by grinding or reduce the width of the body by sanding on a flat surface.

WHY IS A TIGHT MOUTH SO IMPORTANT?

As I said before, ideally we want the mouth thickness the same as the thickness of the shaving. Why? Quite simple really. If we have an area ahead of the shaving that is not supported by the sole of the plane, in other words, an open mouth, the likeliness of tear out is greatly increased.

HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO ADJUST THE BLADE ON THIS THING?

Place the blade in the plane and let the wedge sit loosely in its position. Now rest the plane on some wood and have the blade just touch the surface of the board. Gently tap the wedge into place with a small hammer. Now give the plane a try and it should make the finest shavings. To bring the plane into a deeper cut, gently tapping on the toe (the front) will bring the blade forward. The cutting depth of the iron can also be controlled by tapping it downward. This approach is more direct and for fine adjustments I prefer tapping the toe.
Some prefer to sight the cutting depth from the back of the plane; I prefer to do it from the front. Tilt the plane up until you are looking directly along the sole's surface. The cutting edge should be just above that surface and parallel to it.

If the cut is too aggressive, tap gently on the back of the plane to vibrate the iron to a less coarse cut. To back the iron out completely, tap a bit harder. Hold the plane with your palm under the iron to keep it in place when the wedge loosens.

With a little practice, you will be adjusting this plane to cut beautiful shavings in less time than possible with a metal plane that has all the bells and whistles! Don't believe me? Give it some time and dedication….
An added benefit of your wooden plane is that it slides over the surface with much less friction than a metal-bodied plane. A little bees wax rubbed on the sole will reduce friction even more, and it smells good!
Off course, wooden planes don't rust either….

FINISHING.

I prefer a simple coat or 2 of boiled linseed oil, followed by some wax the next day. Bright finishes do not belong on working planes. Save that for the show plane!

CRANKINESS.

Crankiness in a wooden plane is most commonly due to a high spot or bump behind the iron. It may show itself in at least two ways: If the iron grabs as you start the cut and then skips when the planes is entirely on the surface, check the area directly behind the iron. Use a straight edge and check across the plane's width and along its length.
When it seems that either one corner of the iron or the other persists to dig in, suspect a bump! (I'm assuming the iron is evenly and properly set…)

THE WEIGHT OF THE PLANE.

Proponents of metal planes site their weight as a big plus for better planing. True, but we can do something about that! Counter bore some holes into the section ahead of the iron and glue in lead weights or even lead shot. If the holes are plugged and pared flush, it will hardly be noticeable.

Once you have the frog out of its throat, your newly created instrument can be singing!

That is the end of my song and I thank the LJ's who were playing with! If you have any problems, please let me know and I'll do my best to help.

I trust my little blog will inspire many more LJ's to take up the very satisfying pastime of building their own plane.

Yours in sawdust
 

Attachments

#112 ·
Tune me finely...but how do I adjust the iron?

Musical instrument Wood String instrument accessory Ruler Office ruler


Body done, wedge done, plane iron done. If you are anything like me, eagerness to see some shavings has replaced all other desires at this stage! With a bit of luck, paper thin shavings will be curling out of the mouth. Isn't it great! If not, don't despair….

LET'S FINE TUNE:

1. True the plane sole. This is done with the blade in place but well away from the mouth and the wedge set up tightly as it would be in use. Why? With the wedge set, our plane is in "tension". The wood actually distorts a little, especially just behind the iron.
Clamp a long strip of sandpaper to the table saw top or, if you really want to be fancy, stick it onto a piece of float glass. With little more pressure than the weight of the plane, take a light pass and have a look at the sole. Any high spots will reveal themselves as abraded areas. Usually there will be one just behind the iron. Continue sanding with a light touch, checking on progress often, until the entire sole has been evenly abraded. Take off only the minimum; the more we take off, the more we open the mouth. We don't want that!

How do I get the wedge out?

So you whacked the wedge in tightly, the sole is beautifully true and now we can't get the frigging wedge out! Like many things, it is easy, if you know how. Give the back end of the plane a firm tap or two with a small hammer (4-6 oz.) A little brass hammer will be perfect for this.

Font Quill Circle Magenta Art


2. With the iron in place, have a look at the mouth. Ideally, we want the opening the same as the thickness of a shaving. If it is too tight, carefully file with a needle file or similar. Angle the file so the opening is not parallel to the blade when looking from the side. At the same time, ensure that the opening remains parallel to the blade when viewed from the bottom.

3. Check the width of the plane body against the width of the blade. Ideally the blade should protrude just a wee bit on either side. Either reduce the blade width by grinding or reduce the width of the body by sanding on a flat surface.

WHY IS A TIGHT MOUTH SO IMPORTANT?

As I said before, ideally we want the mouth thickness the same as the thickness of the shaving. Why? Quite simple really. If we have an area ahead of the shaving that is not supported by the sole of the plane, in other words, an open mouth, the likeliness of tear out is greatly increased.

HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO ADJUST THE BLADE ON THIS THING?

Place the blade in the plane and let the wedge sit loosely in its position. Now rest the plane on some wood and have the blade just touch the surface of the board. Gently tap the wedge into place with a small hammer. Now give the plane a try and it should make the finest shavings. To bring the plane into a deeper cut, gently tapping on the toe (the front) will bring the blade forward. The cutting depth of the iron can also be controlled by tapping it downward. This approach is more direct and for fine adjustments I prefer tapping the toe.
Some prefer to sight the cutting depth from the back of the plane; I prefer to do it from the front. Tilt the plane up until you are looking directly along the sole's surface. The cutting edge should be just above that surface and parallel to it.

If the cut is too aggressive, tap gently on the back of the plane to vibrate the iron to a less coarse cut. To back the iron out completely, tap a bit harder. Hold the plane with your palm under the iron to keep it in place when the wedge loosens.

With a little practice, you will be adjusting this plane to cut beautiful shavings in less time than possible with a metal plane that has all the bells and whistles! Don't believe me? Give it some time and dedication….
An added benefit of your wooden plane is that it slides over the surface with much less friction than a metal-bodied plane. A little bees wax rubbed on the sole will reduce friction even more, and it smells good!
Off course, wooden planes don't rust either….

FINISHING.

I prefer a simple coat or 2 of boiled linseed oil, followed by some wax the next day. Bright finishes do not belong on working planes. Save that for the show plane!

CRANKINESS.

Crankiness in a wooden plane is most commonly due to a high spot or bump behind the iron. It may show itself in at least two ways: If the iron grabs as you start the cut and then skips when the planes is entirely on the surface, check the area directly behind the iron. Use a straight edge and check across the plane's width and along its length.
When it seems that either one corner of the iron or the other persists to dig in, suspect a bump! (I'm assuming the iron is evenly and properly set…)

THE WEIGHT OF THE PLANE.

Proponents of metal planes site their weight as a big plus for better planing. True, but we can do something about that! Counter bore some holes into the section ahead of the iron and glue in lead weights or even lead shot. If the holes are plugged and pared flush, it will hardly be noticeable.

Once you have the frog out of its throat, your newly created instrument can be singing!

That is the end of my song and I thank the LJ's who were playing with! If you have any problems, please let me know and I'll do my best to help.

I trust my little blog will inspire many more LJ's to take up the very satisfying pastime of building their own plane.

Yours in sawdust
thank´s for the song on a nice melodi Div
it has been a pleassure to read and follow this blogserie
thank you for takeing the time to share this and your thoughts with us
I´m sorry I haven´t commented before and only had them favorited fo future use
but I have to re-read them again since so much slipped in the one ear and out of the other
before I cuold close the gate …. was a werd week last week … can´t remember anything from it
so I look forward to read it again in this week …. expecting a lot less stress on the job
and little shoptime …. just got a broken blade and the iron nose from a noseplane back from a welder … a freind seems to me he made a pretty good job on them …. so now they are going back in the old planes again

have a great evening
take care
Dennis
 

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