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    <title>woodmaker's Blog at LumberJocks.com</title>
    <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog</link>
    <pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2013 18:04:27 GMT</pubDate>
    <description></description>
    <item>
      <title>What size Wood Clamps?</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/33723</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>That old saying you can&#8217;t have too many clamps is true. I have 6&#8221;, 12&#8221;, 24&#8221; and a few 36&#8221; right now but I&#8217;m needing more clamps for a book case project coming up.</p>


	<p>Dimensions 8&#8217; tall and 36-42&#8221; wide (can&#8217;t decide) most likely will build from Red Oak, with crown moulding up top.</p>


	<p>Now, what size clamps do I need? Bar clamp or pipe clamps?</p>


	<p>I saw 72&#8221; jorgesson I-bar clamps at Home Depot for $53.68 each, and I have a $200.00 gift certificate burning a hole in my pocket. 50&#8221; Bessey costs that much at Lowes. I figire I neeed a minimum of 4 clamps?</p>


	<p>Is 72&#8221; too long; will I ever need a clamp that long or should I stop at 48&#8221;? I&#8217;m soooooooooooooooo confused right now.</p>


	<p>HELP!</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2013 18:04:27 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/33723</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Rookie set of Carving Tools</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/33434</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve been fascinated by other peoples carving abilities and would like to try my hand at it. However, I don&#8217;t want to spend a fourtune for a carving set only to realize I suck or  find out I just don&#8217;t like it.<br />I&#8217;ve seen carving sets of 12 (mallet tools) and hand size for as low as $60.00 all the way to almost a thousand for Pfeil or other Swiss made.</p>


	<p>Any recommendations? I&#8217;m all ears (and not much money). :-)</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 14 Dec 2012 20:27:52 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/33434</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>WorkSharp 3000 questions</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/32215</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I need serious help here.</p>


	<p>I have the aforementioned sharpner and can sharpen my plane irons till I can shave the hair off my arm. I sharpen at 25 degrees then change to 30 for the micro-bevel per the instructions.</p>


	<p>Yesterday, I was sharpening my 1 1/4&#8221; chisel, and could not get it sharp enough to shave an arm hair no matter what! I set the angle at 25 degrees, and then went for a micro-bevel at 30 degrees. What am I doing wrong?</p>


	<p>Seems if I can do one I should be able to do the other. I started at 120 grit and went all the way to 6,000.</p>


	<p>BTW, these are Craftsman bench chisels. (Did I just answer my own question?)</p>


	<p>Also, what angle do you sharpen a spokeshave blade, its not stamped on the blade or tool?</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 25 Sep 2012 16:33:49 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/32215</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Hand Plane Sharpening Question</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/31697</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Okay I can get the scary sharp blade, but do you have to file the chip breaker each time as well?</p>


	<p>I get a gap and the wood chips want to just build up in the chip breaker. I have the blade set at aprox 1/8 but no more than a 1/16th and the gap is visible. If I place the chip breaker any further back, then the blade can&#8217;t be adjusted far enough back to not dig into the wood.</p>


	<p>I&#8217;ve adjusted the chip breaker more ways than can be imagined.</p>


	<p>It&#8217;s an old Stanley #4 smoother.</p>


	<p>It&#8217;s hard being a rookie. :-)</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 22 Aug 2012 16:33:15 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/31697</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>I suck! At tapered legs</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/31416</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Well, after reviewing many articles on how to do tapered legs, I went to the garage to try it.  Yep, I suck!</p>


	<p>I glued some 2&#215;4 pine together, and then cut it down to 2 1/2 X 2 1/2. Fired up the table saw laid the taper jig (aluminum) against the fence, adjusted the jig until it looked like the proper angle ( I wanted 3/4&#8221; thick at bottom and 21/2 at top) Started the cut and darned if it looks like the angle is coming out wrong. It cuts towards the fence and not away from the fence as I was expecting. Almost cut into the jig! What the heck, over?</p>


	<p>So since that leg failed I went to my band saw a massive Skil 9 inch beast with about a 1/2 in blade in it. Cut to the wrong side right away. 2nd leg ruined; 3rd leg went to the proper side of the cut line but the band saw is unmanageable. The taper cut was so wavy I didn&#8217;t want to waste time on the jointer with it. That piece of crap has got to go! Yes yall the band saw was set up right. Just vibrates a lot!</p>


	<p>So 3 legs down, with only one left I gave up for the evening. I went back in the house and reviewed all the videos I watched and re-read the magazine articles. I believe I was on the right path but maybe just using the wrong tools or technique?</p>


	<p>How frustrating! Anyway I haven’t given up. I will glue some more lumber and try again with a different method and apparently there are many, many ways to do this.</p>


	<p>Also, I have learned I need a lot more patience when things don&#8217;t work out the way as planned. :-)</p>


	<p>Guess I need anger management classes. LOL!</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2012 16:54:47 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/31416</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Spalted Maple</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/30967</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I went to the Habitat for Humanity on Saturday and saw a stack of lumber on the floor. All you can haul for a dollar a foot. I spotted what looked like spalted maple as it was rough cut lumber about 5/4 and 5-8 inches wide. The longest board is 9 feet.</p>


	<p>So this evening I planned it down and look at this!</p>


	<p><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/ljimg/m72lu1n.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/ljimg/m72lus8.jpg" alt="" /></p>


	<p>I really don&#8217;t know spalted maple from salty chips, but from what I&#8217;ve read and seen pictures of I think it&#8217;s maple.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 12 Jul 2012 23:15:49 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/30967</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Table Saw glue removal from cast iron</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/30608</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>Can someone tell me how to get rid of glue stains on my cast iron table saw top?</p>


	<p>I&#8217;ve had no choice but to use the top as an assembly table, but careful as I was I still managed to get glue on the top and now I can&#8217;t seem to get rid of it.</p>


	<p>I&#8217;ve tried paint thinner, alcohol and WD-40 but to no avail.</p>


	<p>Tite-Bond III glue if that helps anyone.</p>


	<p>HELP!</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2012 01:06:01 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/30608</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Who is from Decatur/Huntsville Alabama</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/30150</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I live in Decatur Alabama.</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 22 May 2012 16:50:48 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/30150</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Green Lumber Projects</title>
      <link>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/30136</link>
      <description>
        <![CDATA[<p>I saw this on a sawmill site and wondered how true this really is. <br />I can&#8217;t see building furniture or etc from green wood that is shrinking. What about cupping, twist and other things lumber does as it dries?</p>


	<p>I&#8217;m confused!</p>


	<p>For general construction, kiln dried lumber is not necessary.  In fact many people prefer to build some of their projects out of green lumber, straight off the sawmill.  It is easier to cut and nail, and as it dries, will shrink and form itself to the shape of what it is nailed to.  So it will develop memory and be strong in the shape it is installed.  Most people who have never built from green wood have never seen this effect.  For example, hickory framing lumber is easy to work when it is green, but as it dries and hardens it gets to the point that nails can barely be pulled out without stripping their heads or breaking them in two.</p>


	<p>Did I miss-read this somehow?</p>]]>
      </description>
      <pubDate>Mon, 21 May 2012 23:02:46 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://lumberjocks.com/woodmaker/blog/30136</guid>
      <author>woodmaker</author>
      <dc:creator>woodmaker</dc:creator>
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