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Table Saw glue removal from cast iron

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Blog entry by woodmaker posted 06-21-2012 01:06 AM 3098 reads 0 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Can someone tell me how to get rid of glue stains on my cast iron table saw top?

I’ve had no choice but to use the top as an assembly table, but careful as I was I still managed to get glue on the top and now I can’t seem to get rid of it.

I’ve tried paint thinner, alcohol and WD-40 but to no avail.

Tite-Bond III glue if that helps anyone.

HELP!

-- Mike



19 comments so far

View crashn's profile

crashn

519 posts in 1212 days


#1 posted 06-21-2012 01:22 AM

going to have to sand it out, steel wool or fine sandpaper. A carbide scraper would also work, but be careful not go gouge. I have made that mistake a couple of times ;)

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3530 posts in 1225 days


#2 posted 06-21-2012 01:33 AM

Ya your going to have to sand it a fresh scotch brite pad will work some times

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Don W's profile

Don W

15534 posts in 1314 days


#3 posted 06-21-2012 11:33 AM

next time you’r in a hardware store pick up a painters canvas drop cloth and throw it over the saw when you’re glueing on it. I do the same on my bench if I’m glueing up long panels. I have a piece of fiberglass fabric, but a drop cloth would work as well. Regular plastic is a pain.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

11457 posts in 1753 days


#4 posted 06-21-2012 12:35 PM

Ive found that wax paper is a pretty cheap option as well and peels right off your work piece. Like everyone else you’re gonna have to sand it off.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View woodmaker's profile

woodmaker

268 posts in 1438 days


#5 posted 06-21-2012 04:23 PM

Okay, sounds like I have some sanding to do.

Should I lubricate the sandpaper with WD-40 or something or just go dry?
What grit would you suggest, I’m afraid of adding deep scrathes in the table.

Thanks Yall

-- Mike

View crashn's profile

crashn

519 posts in 1212 days


#6 posted 06-21-2012 04:40 PM

I would go 600 grit or better. A little lubricant would not hurt, wd40 or other light oil, or even water, but that could add to your problems unless cleaned right away. Also, after you sand, don’t forget to treat and protect the newly exposed cast iron.

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

View hhhopks's profile

hhhopks

565 posts in 1124 days


#7 posted 06-21-2012 06:29 PM

I have used an old flat chisel to scrap it off.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1670 days


#8 posted 06-21-2012 08:56 PM

Something like a putty knife,old chisel etc. Then 600 grit on a vibrating sander with lube. Finish with a coat of wax or topcoat of something. I use G-96 gunspray by Outers.

-- Life is good.

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3530 posts in 1225 days


#9 posted 06-21-2012 10:55 PM

I would try the red scotch brite first it is a lot easier on the metal and you can do a lot quicker if you start with 220 or 240 then 400 then 600 then wax it to death to get a great finish on the top i use autosol and a buffer it works a lot better than the other polishes and makes it like glass it also reduces the chance of staining as the pores are filled with the polish and it does not stain as badly.

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View woodmaker's profile

woodmaker

268 posts in 1438 days


#10 posted 06-21-2012 11:20 PM

Thanks bunches everyone, I’ll do these things.
It’s already scraped off, so now just sanding and waxing.
Tonight I started on a assembly table so I won’t have to use the saw anymore.

-- Mike

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

15071 posts in 2423 days


#11 posted 06-22-2012 02:21 AM

Be warned that bare metal with only WD-40 on it will rust overnight ;-(

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View woodmaker's profile

woodmaker

268 posts in 1438 days


#12 posted 06-22-2012 12:46 PM

Yep, I’m aware of that.
This is going to be my week-end project. I have some Bio-Shield that I will coat the table with after I sand it.

-- Mike

View DeLayne Peck's profile

DeLayne Peck

355 posts in 948 days


#13 posted 06-22-2012 11:21 PM

Boeshield is good. Look up TopCoat. Really slick and won’t cause finishing problems. Excellent dry lubicant for gears under the table that won’t catch dust and clog.

-- DJ Peck, Lincoln Nebraska. I think of my shop as Fritter City. I am the Mayor.

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3530 posts in 1225 days


#14 posted 06-25-2012 12:44 AM

did you guys see the rust on table tops article in fww this month

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View charlton's profile

charlton

78 posts in 2156 days


#15 posted 06-27-2012 01:23 PM

Does using a razor blade (like a card scraper) not work? I do this with many of my cast iron tops when they develop pitch. I’ll admit, I haven’t had to deal with TBIII, though.

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