Table Saw glue removal from cast iron

going to have to sand it out, steel wool or fine sandpaper. A carbide scraper would also work, but be careful not go gouge. I have made that mistake a couple of times ;)

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

Ya your going to have to sand it a fresh scotch brite pad will work some times

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

next time you’r in a hardware store pick up a painters canvas drop cloth and throw it over the saw when you’re glueing on it. I do the same on my bench if I’m glueing up long panels. I have a piece of fiberglass fabric, but a drop cloth would work as well. Regular plastic is a pain.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Ive found that wax paper is a pretty cheap option as well and peels right off your work piece. Like everyone else you’re gonna have to sand it off.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

Okay, sounds like I have some sanding to do.

Should I lubricate the sandpaper with WD-40 or something or just go dry?
What grit would you suggest, I’m afraid of adding deep scrathes in the table.

Thanks Yall

-- Mike

I would go 600 grit or better. A little lubricant would not hurt, wd40 or other light oil, or even water, but that could add to your problems unless cleaned right away. Also, after you sand, don’t forget to treat and protect the newly exposed cast iron.

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

I have used an old flat chisel to scrap it off.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS

Something like a putty knife,old chisel etc. Then 600 grit on a vibrating sander with lube. Finish with a coat of wax or topcoat of something. I use G-96 gunspray by Outers.

-- Don't rollerskate in a buffalo herd

I would try the red scotch brite first it is a lot easier on the metal and you can do a lot quicker if you start with 220 or 240 then 400 then 600 then wax it to death to get a great finish on the top i use autosol and a buffer it works a lot better than the other polishes and makes it like glass it also reduces the chance of staining as the pores are filled with the polish and it does not stain as badly.

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

Thanks bunches everyone, I’ll do these things.
It’s already scraped off, so now just sanding and waxing.
Tonight I started on a assembly table so I won’t have to use the saw anymore.

-- Mike

Be warned that bare metal with only WD-40 on it will rust overnight ;-(

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0

Yep, I’m aware of that.
This is going to be my week-end project. I have some Bio-Shield that I will coat the table with after I sand it.

-- Mike

Boeshield is good. Look up TopCoat. Really slick and won’t cause finishing problems. Excellent dry lubicant for gears under the table that won’t catch dust and clog.

-- DJ Peck, Lincoln Nebraska. I don't have a Shop. I think of it as a Tool Chase. Where the hell did I put that?

did you guys see the rust on table tops article in fww this month

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

Does using a razor blade (like a card scraper) not work? I do this with many of my cast iron tops when they develop pitch. I’ll admit, I haven’t had to deal with TBIII, though.