I told a friend I’d try and sell some of his black walnut so here’s the offer. I’m trying to put together a package deal since he wants to sell all 7000 bf of it in one fell swoop, of course it doesn’t have to be all one buyer. Anyway the wood is all air dried, all 10/4 and 5/4 stuff, some of it is up to 12” in width and none of it is less than 6’ long with most of it 8’ up to 12’ in length. I know lots of ya’ll might not be too enthusiastic about air dried lumber since it can have bugs in it. I haven’t personally seen the stack but he assures me it’s all stacked and stickered and according to his meter is about 15% moisture content or less. He says much of it is down to 9% but I had a hard time believing that number since it’s all air dried. He wants 2.25 a bf for it and he wants to get rid of all 7000 bf. All of ya’ll who are interested, just send me a pm. The wood is located in the Jefferson, TX area. Rough sawn, all of it, to my knowledge.

Just though’t I’d throw this out there for any interested parties.

thanks for reading,

~isaac

The cast iron surface has some very minor rust spots that will need to be removed, what would be the best way to remove that? I was thinking of just using dry steel wool pads (any better suggestions?).

When I picked it up, I realized it was missing a part of the blade guard so I’ll be checking with the shop to get that also. And if the picture is clear enough, does anybody have any experience with the magnetic on/off switch that is installed on it? I’ve never seen a magnetic switch before so just asking. I think I’ll relocate the switch down to the left side of the table underneath the fence rail, seems to be a more intuitive place rather than where it currently is.

It is sitting on my shop made portable base since I couldn’t shell out 200 for the really nice one, of course I’ll be adding better supports once I rebuild the right side table wing.

I also got a scrap of some solid surface corian type stuff and and going to make a new zero clearence insert.

here’s a few shots of my new baby!

From New Delta TableSaw

From New Delta TableSaw

From New Delta TableSaw

From New Delta TableSaw

From New Delta TableSaw

Anyway not sure what I’ll do with the slabs but a large dining table does come to mind. And certainly a live edge coffee table but I’m not sure anyones going to want a 200 lb. coffee table. Oh well, at least it will be beautiful!

I’ll keep ya’ll appraised of the slabbing process with pics and updates from time to time. I’m in Michigan so got to get it done before it turns really cold.

From Beech logs

From Beech logs

From Beech logs

ps. if anyone has any experience working with Beech, please chime in because prior to my spalted beech small box, I’ve never worked with Beech at all.

thanks in advance for any tips or tricks inherent to Beech,

~isaac

well to make a long story a bit shorter, i went in and submitted my offer of $375 and now i’m the proud, walking on air, owner of a delta unisaw with a 50”biesemeyer fence. i’m so excited, can’t wait to go pick it up. i ended up selling my old craftsman to a friend for 150 so that offset my already ridiculously low price even more. if someone would chime in on this i’d be gratefull. my old craftsman had a full cast iron top, 24” fence that is almost perfectly straight up and down, 3 hp motor belt drive, and has worked well for me but i just couldn’t pass up the delta for that price. anyway do ya’ll think 150 for my craftsman is a decent price to charge?

i’ll be posting pictures of the delta just as soon as i go pick it up. that’s all for now but i was so pumped about it that i just had to share my excitement with my lumberjock fam.

thanks for reading ya’ll,

~isaac

I just found, what seems to me to be a treasure trove of cherry. I just stopped today at a warehouse type resale store and found that they carry all kinds of wood. Mostly redoak but alot of cherry and some maple. Anyway I just wanted to throw this question out there to see if anyone could shed some light on it. One of the piles of cherry they have is probably about 100-150 BF of 4/4 stock. Each board is approx 8’ x 4”. They are selling it for $4.00 a board. The cherry is absolutely beautiful, lots of color and nice figured grain, no rough cuts, all milled and sealed on the endgrain. Most of it is pretty straight stuff too. So my question is, “is this a good deal or not?”

Thanks in advance for ya’lls help,

~isaac

I’ll preface this blog by saying that because of my lack of experience…

i made a mistake that i hope won’t be undoable. when i applied tung oil to my coffeetable after sanding it down to 400 grit, i applied it too heavily thinking that it would be alright, since i’d seen something similar (but not exactly) done on the Wood Whisperer’s video podcast. What he’d used was a mixture but i (ignorantly) assumed it didn’t differ too much from straight tung oil. anyway it’s been a week now and my finish is still rather sticky. does anybody have advice as to how i can fix this, i’m about ready to start wiping it down with paint thinner or laquer thinner but i figured i’d ask the pro’s (all of ya’ll) first. i’m all ears right now, because i’m hoping i haven’t ruined it.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Woodchips76/ProgressShotsOfTheCoffeeTable

http://picasaweb.google.com/Woodchips76/ProgressShotsOfTheCoffeeTable

i’ve posted more pictures on picassa webalbums to show progress and the beautiful finish that i love tung oil for. originally i had plans just to glue and clamp then screw the black walnut breadboards onto the endgrain, then i received some excellent and timely advice on NOT doing it that way. i cerainly wouldn’t have wanted it to split later on down the road. i’m still looking at options for attaching the breadboards but i know for sure i want to use the black walnut. the contrast is just too beautiful to pass up.

for the legs, i’ll describe what i plan to do but it may be a bit confusing so hopefully the pictures will clear it up a bit. i welded a rectangular frame out of 1 1/2” x 1/8” flat steel. i plan on dadoing out the shape of the frame on the underside of the table so that when the frame is placed into the dado it sits flush with the underside of the table. to each corner of the frame i plan on drilling two large holes and attaching the legs to the frame with large lag bolts. then the frame will have smaller holes drilled everywhere else and i will set the tabletop down onto the frame and then attach it all with small screws. like i said, it might be bit confusing but maybe not so much once you look at the pictures.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Woodchips76/ProgressShotsOfTheCoffeeTable

well it’s late and i’m headed to bed, will post more later when there’s more progress.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Woodchips76/ProgressShotsOfTheCoffeeTable