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Red Oak & Black Walnut coffeetable #2: putting the finish on the legs, etc...

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Blog entry by woodchips posted 07-22-2007 05:50 AM 692 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: getting a good start... Part 2 of Red Oak & Black Walnut coffeetable series Part 3: getting closer to being finished »

i’ve decided to go ahead and finish the legs even though they are not attached yet. the method i plan to using to attach them won’t interfere with the finish so why not?

i’ve posted more pictures on picassa webalbums to show progress and the beautiful finish that i love tung oil for. originally i had plans just to glue and clamp then screw the black walnut breadboards onto the endgrain, then i received some excellent and timely advice on NOT doing it that way. i cerainly wouldn’t have wanted it to split later on down the road. i’m still looking at options for attaching the breadboards but i know for sure i want to use the black walnut. the contrast is just too beautiful to pass up.

for the legs, i’ll describe what i plan to do but it may be a bit confusing so hopefully the pictures will clear it up a bit. i welded a rectangular frame out of 1 1/2” x 1/8” flat steel. i plan on dadoing out the shape of the frame on the underside of the table so that when the frame is placed into the dado it sits flush with the underside of the table. to each corner of the frame i plan on drilling two large holes and attaching the legs to the frame with large lag bolts. then the frame will have smaller holes drilled everywhere else and i will set the tabletop down onto the frame and then attach it all with small screws. like i said, it might be bit confusing but maybe not so much once you look at the pictures.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Woodchips76/ProgressShotsOfTheCoffeeTable

-- "Repetition is a leading cause of carelessness, and carelessness usually leads to injury"



2 comments so far

View Dorje's profile

Dorje

1763 posts in 2649 days


#1 posted 07-22-2007 08:06 AM

I think I get what you’re going to do on the bottom in order to mount it…again, you’ll want to allow the wood to move by making the holes in the steel frame elongated in the direction across the width of the top.

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

View woodchips's profile

woodchips

235 posts in 2617 days


#2 posted 07-22-2007 06:39 PM

thanks for the tip Dorje,
i’d actually forgotten about that part of it. my mind has been focused on how exactly to do the breadboards, someone told a way they had done it and it sounds like the best solution for me since i don’t have very many tools to work with. they had put elongated holes on the outer ends of the breadboards and used large screws to attach the ends and only glued the middle parts of the breadboards to the endgrain. then just used wooden caps to cover the screws and make it look like dowels. the next tools i’m going to buy will be a bigger router and more bits and a jig for doing mortise and tenon joints, i really like the way they look and the strength is unbeatable, plus it allows for movement, which is something i’ve never taken into account in anything else i’ve built.
schoolwork calls for now…

-- "Repetition is a leading cause of carelessness, and carelessness usually leads to injury"

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