Over to the miter saw where all of the box side components are mitered to the proper length.
Dry fit Box sides 6” x 7” x 3” outside measurements
The next step in the box construction is routing all of the grooves for the upper and lower backer boards and the accent strips. I use a 1/4” straight router bit set at 1/4” deep. The upper backer is down 1/4” from the top and the bottom backer is set 1/8” from the bottom. The accent strip groove is routed 1/8” deep and 1” from the bottom.The walnut inlays are now glued into to each section of the box sides with ca glue then trimmed flush with the miters using a small back saw. Accents are sanded flush with the box sides. At this point I do the final sanding on the insides of the box sections with 220 grit paper. Because I will be sawing the lid after the glue-up is done, I make some reference marks on the miters 3/4” down from the top. This is so I won’t drill any holes in this area that will show up after the lid cut is made. Using a 5/64” high speed cutter on my rotary tool, I drill a series of shallow holes into the miters that will allow glue to strengthen the miters.Time for the glue-up. Clamping a straight edge to the workbench, I lay the sequentially cut box sides groove down and pull the pieces together with 2” packing tape keeping the edges against the straight edge.
I flip the whole assembly over and apply glue to all of the miters and backer grooves, insert the backers and pull the sections together securing the last corner tightly with packing tape. Square up the box if needed. More packing tape is used on each corner stretched tight diagonally to pull the corners tight.
Glue up is done. Next step is cutting the lid.