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Friends I would like to talk about gilding here, but I’d rather to leave it for you to pose questions first -if there is-.
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#1 posted 05-29-2015 05:30 PM
Your work is masterful. I have seen the guilding process used on picture frames, etc. It isn’t something I will do but I appreciate what you do.
Thanks for taking the time to explain the process.
-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher
2308 posts in 2403 days
#2 posted 05-29-2015 10:17 PM
Okay first things first: how do you prepare the undercoat that you stick the metal sheets onto?
-- Thomas - Pondering the inclusion of woodworking into physics and chemistry classes...
1013 posts in 1522 days
#3 posted 05-30-2015 12:22 PM
How do you get the metal smooth without breaking it? I have applied gold and silver leaf to stained glass but always have trouble getting a smooth finish.
Also what do you use to prevent the silver from tarnishing?
Thanks for starting the question and answer blog.
#4 posted 05-30-2015 08:15 PM
soda, thanks for your question, the coat on which leaf is applied plays important role on the final quality. actually the more smooth and shiny the base coat is, the more shiny and bright leaf will be. I usually spray N.C red paint/ primer and then I apply A.C lacquer over it. it is glossy and very smooth.
#5 posted 05-30-2015 08:19 PM
leafherder, the trick is laid on the “gold size”; I use water-base size, so it is possible for me to rub the surface easily by soft cotton, it smooth all breaking and makes it shiny and bright. then I apply a thin layer of shellac with a piece of pad (by hand); it not only seal the leaf but makes it more smooth and ready for top coat which is usually P.U clear.
#6 posted 05-30-2015 10:35 PM
Thanks Vahid, now a follow up question. How long does the size have to dry before you apply the shellac?
3668 posts in 1774 days
#7 posted 05-31-2015 12:05 AM
Vahid,Q1 where do you get your comsumables from?Q2 Is the Gold the real material or Al substrates?
-- Regards Robert
#8 posted 05-31-2015 05:59 PM
actually I thin the size (by water) so that it is as thin as “milk”, and when I apply the leaf it becomes dry, so I don’t have to wait a few hours or over night. I apply the shellac once gilding is finished; sometimes immediately after gilding. you know, time is very important for me. the shellac plays an important role in the process of gilding.
#9 posted 05-31-2015 06:04 PM
robsorry I don’t know what you mean by “comsumables”. if you mean leaf and size, I buy them from local dealers here in Iran. they are not that much quality or brandy. About your 2nd question, there are different types of leaf, both genuine or imitation. here in Iran only low quality imitation leaf are sold and it is the material I have used. :)
#10 posted 05-31-2015 10:02 PM
Thanks for the reply Vahid,
After I posed it I trolled through all of your fine projects and found the answer embedded in the text as you explained your processes, all very fine work I must say, I thought the detail trim was CNC produced or CNC produced onlays.
To carve all the features by hand is some skill and I was impressed. I even checked out your friend as well.
Q3 is there a right and wrong side to the leaf?
I checked mine and could not see any difference but I cannot see very well at my age.So I checked on the net and there I read comment about being the correct side up being the top face as you view the book.
I just posted a project using copper leaf, can you have a look and run a critical eye over it for me please.
#11 posted 06-01-2015 06:28 PM
thanks robabout wrong or right side of leaf I have no idea. actually I have not found any difference between each side. for sure I will check your project.
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