So far, here’s the plan for “finishing” the walls. Subject to change as I see new and different cool stuff to buy.
Exterior walls will be DryLok-ed, then Insulpink with 1×3 furring strips held by Tapcon screws right into the block.
Sheathed with 7/16×4 x 8 OSB (at HD it’s only $1 more per sheet over sheetrock, and this will hold a screw anywhere, no hunting for studs).
Inner walls will be OSB over 1×3 (no insul)
One framed wall will be OSB over 2×4 studwall.
OSB may get painted or just sealed. I’ll see how it looks once it’s up.
-- Eric ---- Wise Words T.B.D.






















5 comments so far
FirehouseWoodworking
home | projects | blog
109 posts in 172 days
posted 109 days ago
How is the lighting in your shop? If it is marginal, think about the value of adding drywall, or at the very least, painting the OSB. Light color paint over drywall will do lots to help with light. And if you are a “visually oriented” learner (like me), the random pattern of the wood flakes on the OSB will drive you crazy. The other point to consider is that some of these strand may flake off or lift over time.
But more importantly, is your shop in a separate standing structure, or is it attached to or part of your home? As a firefighter, I cannot overemphasize the fire hazard of OSB walls. Even if everything is properly wired, etc., should you be struck by lightning and that OSB catching fire, it will be intense. The glues used in OSB offgas some very nasty “smoke” and cause fire to spread quickly and very hot.
While your point of being able to hang things without worrying about locating studs is excellent, why not put a layer of 1/2” drywall over the top of the OSB? That will help with reflecting available light as well as adding a layer of safety in limiting and/or preventing the possible spread of fire.
Just some points to consider. I’m looking forward to seeing some pictures of your shop. Good luck!
-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas
unklegwar
home | projects | blog
78 posts in 113 days
posted 109 days ago
I didn’t realize OSB was a fire/smoke issue (they used it for subfloor in my townhome).
The shop will be in the basement (cinder block).
My issue with sheetrock was mainly with any moisture (infiltrating via the concrete block), tho over insulpink, that’ll be less of an issue. Also, if I do the insulpink/furring strips, I’ll REALLY have issues with finding studs (i’ll have to put 2×4 cross braces every so often).
I have pics up in other blog topics (pictures where appropriate to my current stage of completion) and some in my main profile area.
I’d be interested to hear any other ideas you have for me. The OSB (or any solid wood) is now not looking so smart.
Maybe 2×4s on the flat, with extra nailers placed crosswise with the pink foam cut to fit between, and an additional vapor barrier…all covered with that paperless sheetrock.
-- Eric ---- Wise Words T.B.D.
unklegwar
home | projects | blog
78 posts in 113 days
posted 109 days ago
Btw, lighting is fine. I installed 4 4’ fluorescent shop lights and it’s pretty bright even with out being painted. The floor is getting a very light epoxy and anything will be better than the grey concrete walls. If need be, I have circuit capacity to add more lights. They all just plug in to switched outlets in the ceiling.
-- Eric ---- Wise Words T.B.D.
unklegwar
home | projects | blog
78 posts in 113 days
posted 90 days ago
-- Eric ---- Wise Words T.B.D.
unklegwar
home | projects | blog
78 posts in 113 days
posted 90 days ago
Floor Expoxy: DONE
Drylok: DONE
Divider wall Framing: DONE
Things should pick up now that I don’t have to keep waiting for stuff to dry, cure or otherwise.
-- Eric ---- Wise Words T.B.D.