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Ridgid R4512 Table Saw #1: My R4512 Setup

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Blog entry by uMinded posted 01-28-2015 12:33 PM 9089 reads 1 time favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Ridgid R4512 Table Saw series no next part

Totally set up R4512 cast iron table saw.

Lee valley brand router table insert 05J25.01 router is a BOSCH 1619 EVS which is a beast.

Outfeed table out of three door hinges and a piece of planed to thickness 2×4 and 5/8 birch MDF.

Recycled front fence from old crosscut sled. Maple with a T-slot extrusion.

NOTES:
1) If you tighten the blade lift handle with the center nob the blade misalignment goes away! I figured mine was good as I ALWAYS tighten mine (Prevent lifting with a dado blade) but the one time I measured with it loose I found the slight error everyone is so worried about.

2) I added a piece of HDPE tape to the HDPE runners on the fence to tighten everything up a little better. This removed all the error out of the fence. Sure their is a hair difference but this is not a machine shop.

3) Had to peen the crosscut miter assembly so it fit snug, after that I aligned everything and its spot on.

4) Re-wired the saw for 240V, this is NOT a universal motor but an actual induction one with a belt drive, when you turn the saw off and the motor slows down you can hear the speed switch put the start windings back into the circuit and the blade slows down double time. Its like a free electronic break!



10 comments so far

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

1984 posts in 1304 days


#1 posted 01-28-2015 01:08 PM

What is the slight error you are referring to? Mine would move .020 at the back.

Lowering then raising the blade height, then really tightening up the lock reduced the heeling a bit, but never eliminated it. Mine would shift so bad ripping could trip the breaker.

If you are able to eliminate the error on yours that is great, but don’t assume you found and solved the issue that eluded so many.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2893 posts in 1707 days


#2 posted 01-28-2015 02:38 PM

I agree with what RobS888 said. If your blade heels or changes alignment to the miter slots at all when you change the height, you have a defective saw. There is no fix for this. If you are within the return policy, bring it back and try again.

-- https://pinepointwoodworks.wordpress.com/

View uMinded's profile

uMinded

104 posts in 1311 days


#3 posted 01-28-2015 03:54 PM

Please not this is a personal blog posting titled “Ridgid R4512 Table Saw” and not a forum posting called “Ridgid R4512 Table Saw Alignment Solved”. Thanks for liking all the additions I have made though!

View uMinded's profile

uMinded

104 posts in 1311 days


#4 posted 01-28-2015 04:02 PM

About breakers tripping, a 1HP motor on 120V is pushing the max on a 15A breaker. Breakers are rated at 80% load so you can run 12A on a 15A breaker without any nuisance tripping but 0.1A more and it might. The older the breaker the more finicky it can be. I put a 240V 15A receptical right below my panel as I knew that any table saw past a contractor saw was likely to run into this issue at some time. I cut some 3” maple and walnut last week and it was butter, on my old box store saw the power cord would even get hot!

View Notw's profile

Notw

467 posts in 1212 days


#5 posted 01-28-2015 04:07 PM

Do you have any pictures perhaps from underneath of the outfeed table? I have a TS3660 and am curious where you attached your hinges. Great additions!

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

1984 posts in 1304 days


#6 posted 01-28-2015 05:28 PM



About breakers tripping, a 1HP motor on 120V is pushing the max on a 15A breaker. Breakers are rated at 80% load so you can run 12A on a 15A breaker without any nuisance tripping but 0.1A more and it might. The older the breaker the more finicky it can be. I put a 240V 15A receptical right below my panel as I knew that any table saw past a contractor saw was likely to run into this issue at some time. I cut some 3” maple and walnut last week and it was butter, on my old box store saw the power cord would even get hot!

- uMinded


It was a 20 amp dedicated circuit. Well a sump pump is on there as well, but I don’t think it pulls much. my sawstop doesn’t bog down at all on boards from the same tree.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

1984 posts in 1304 days


#7 posted 01-28-2015 05:32 PM



Please not this is a personal blog posting titled “Ridgid R4512 Table Saw” and not a forum posting called “Ridgid R4512 Table Saw Alignment Solved”. Thanks for liking all the additions I have made though!

- uMinded


I understand that, I just think you are wrong about this comment “slight error everyone is so worried about”.

I’m happy you didn’t have any trouble, just don’t deprecate what others struggled with.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5764 posts in 945 days


#8 posted 01-28-2015 05:41 PM


About breakers tripping, a 1HP motor on 120V is pushing the max on a 15A breaker. Breakers are rated at 80% load so you can run 12A on a 15A breaker without any nuisance tripping but 0.1A more and it might. The older the breaker the more finicky it can be. I put a 240V 15A receptical right below my panel as I knew that any table saw past a contractor saw was likely to run into this issue at some time. I cut some 3” maple and walnut last week and it was butter, on my old box store saw the power cord would even get hot!

- uMinded

It was a 20 amp dedicated circuit. Well a sump pump is on there as well, but I don t think it pulls much. my sawstop doesn t bog down at all on boards from the same tree.

- RobS888

.1A isn’t going to make any difference whatsoever.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View uMinded's profile

uMinded

104 posts in 1311 days


#9 posted 01-28-2015 06:45 PM



Do you have any pictures perhaps from underneath of the outfeed table? I have a TS3660 and am curious where you attached your hinges. Great additions!

- Notw

My rear rail has a 5/16” T-slot on the bottom. I used regular door hinges and put the bolts on the outer two screw holes on the hinge and it stuck out past the rear rail perfectly. I then planed a 2×4 to whatever was needed to make the 5/8” outfeed table slightly lower than the cast iron top. To hold the table in place I screwed a piece of 2×4 to the stand and another scrap on the outfeed table. Clamped the top one in place while I aligned everything and screwed it in place.

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

206 posts in 921 days


#10 posted 02-03-2015 04:18 AM


Do you have any pictures perhaps from underneath of the outfeed table? I have a TS3660 and am curious where you attached your hinges. Great additions!

- Notw

My rear rail has a 5/16” T-slot on the bottom. I used regular door hinges and put the bolts on the outer two screw holes on the hinge and it stuck out past the rear rail perfectly. I then planed a 2×4 to whatever was needed to make the 5/8” outfeed table slightly lower than the cast iron top. To hold the table in place I screwed a piece of 2×4 to the stand and another scrap on the outfeed table. Clamped the top one in place while I aligned everything and screwed it in place.

- uMinded


That T slot rail is great. I was having problems with my fence rails sagging a bit. Just the other day I built my router extension wing, and added 1 1/2” angle iron the whole length of the rail. No more sag, and am going to attach the out feed table to it.

nMinded, very nice mods. While my router table is done, I would like to see the underside of yours.
I hope to post my own pics this weekend.
Thanks for sharing your upgrades.

-- John

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