Leonard Street Workshop #5: Basic Setup

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Blog entry by tyskkvinna posted 01-28-2011 02:56 AM 1532 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 4: New Tool- Router Table Part 5 of Leonard Street Workshop series Part 6: Getting Setup »

I got the basics set up today…

Over here, is the little bandsaw and the mitre saw.

and over here is the router table and the sander. If you look closely you can see that sitting between the two tables is another table with the planer.

The shopvac is sitting under the sink and therefore hiding. :)

The router table is awesome!! I love it. I do have a small question for you all though.

See the little … bump… towards the end? It did this on every piece I put through. What do I adjust properly? I fiddled a bit and couldn’t fix it.

-- Lis - Michigan - -

10 comments so far

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 3027 days

#1 posted 01-28-2011 03:05 AM

The fence halves are not lined up properly. You need to have the outfeed one a bit offset from the infeed (Like on a jointer.) When you come off the support of the infeed, it jumps because there is less wood once you cut the part. The other part of the answer is to use a sliding table (you can make one with a piece of ply like a crosscut sled on a tablesaw.

Specifically, the outfeed half of the fence should be offset by the cutting depth so it lines up after the cut.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)'s profile

Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)

9231 posts in 2949 days

#2 posted 01-28-2011 03:06 AM

It’s coming right along, Lis. It looks like it is going to be a great place!

-- Designer/Artist/Teacher. Owner of Sheila Landry Designs ( Scroll saw, wood working and painting patterns and surfaces. "Knowledge is Power"

View Rustic's profile


3253 posts in 3625 days

#3 posted 01-28-2011 03:14 AM

more pressure on the out feed side

--, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI

View devann's profile


2246 posts in 2722 days

#4 posted 01-28-2011 06:15 AM

Yes, David is correct. To align the outfeed fence use a steel ruler on the outfeed fence set to just touch the cutter when the cutter closest to you when you’re standing in front of the routertable. And Rustic too has a point, try useing a featherboard to get steady pressure on your stock. I cut slots in my featherboard and drilled holes in the top of the routertable so I could fasten the featherboard to the routertable and have it slide closer or away from the fence. It is not possible to use the featherboard for every operation but is safer when routing smaller pieces. Use push sticks. You can make a featherboard out of plywood with your mitersaw and then rip it to size with your tablesaw. One more item, on my mitersaw I like to clamp a scrap piece of MDF on the fence. This serves two purposes, First the cut made in the MDF allows me to line up for my cut, and second it keeps smaller pieces from flying out the back of the saw. You lose a little bit of capacity, but you have a 12” blade. You can see a photo of this at a review I wrote for my mitersaw. Hope this helps, looks like you’re coming right along. Good Luck.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

View William's profile


9949 posts in 2871 days

#5 posted 01-28-2011 02:13 PM

I have that same router table, and I don’t think the fences are out of line. I think your problem is pressure on the outfeed side, or should I say not enough pressure. As the material leaves the infeed side, it “dips” towards the bit, allowing a small amount of what seems almost like tearout on the end. It can almost be compared to snipe from a planer.
I like devann’s idea of clamping a piece of scrap to keep material fed straight. I am going to have to try that one.
Also, it wouldn’t take but a moment with a straight edge to check that the two fence sides are in line. I said I don’t think that’s your problem. I did not say I’m always right.


View BritBoxmaker's profile


4611 posts in 3065 days

#6 posted 01-28-2011 03:25 PM

Coming along nicely, Lis.

-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging.

View tyskkvinna's profile


1310 posts in 3015 days

#7 posted 01-28-2011 03:45 PM

Thanks, all! I will try out these ideas. :)

-- Lis - Michigan - -

View joey's profile


396 posts in 3933 days

#8 posted 01-28-2011 08:31 PM

I use a 8” x 8” piece of plywood laid flat with a handle in the middle as a push stick/sled to push my pieces though the end of the cut, this keeps it square and prevents it from dipping into the cutter and gives you some margin of safety as I do that I keep pressure on the out feed side. I would also check the alignment of the fence but I don’t really think that the problem. The sled is also great for routing end grains that are shorter than 6” you just but against the fence slide the board up to the fence hold it down with finger pressure away from the cutter and slide it though to the other side as long as the fence is align it will slide from one side to the other easily.

-- Joey~~Sabina, Ohio

View johnzo's profile


84 posts in 2825 days

#9 posted 02-12-2011 05:37 PM

No real expert here, but the ‘tear-away’ may be due to the sequence in which the routing cuts were performed. It is normal for this to occur when taking a cut against the grain. So if you’re routing all 4 edges of a door, etc, you should rout the cross grain ends first and lastly, the 2 cuts with the grain. This way you won’t have these end grain chip-outs.
John Z

-- 70 is the new 50!

View superstretch's profile


1531 posts in 2722 days

#10 posted 02-17-2011 06:49 AM

Sorry to rehash, and I hope you’ve already got this sorted out, but I have that same issue with my table (I think we talked about it in the #4 post. I found that its because the fences are toed in ever so slightly. When the wood slides along, it drops off the bevel and a smidge extra wood is taken off. I fixed that by shimming the bit-side of the outfeed fence with a couple playing cards ripped in half. Since then, no issues unless I adjust the fence in or out- then I just have to add or remove a card or two.

-- Dan, Rochester, NY

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