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44K views 62 replies 18 participants last post by  NormG 
#1 ·
Got Weight?

The only good thing about not having built a planer stand is that it makes a Great Weight for gluing.

Photo Oct 07, 1 11 06 AM

This eventually will be a door. The frame is assembled with pocket screws and glue (not complete). The outer skin is 1/2" BCX ply and will receive paint.

Man, do I have a long way to go.
 
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#3 ·
... of course you could always roll a car or truck onto it for more weight! LOL

Looking forward to seeing your progress on your doors…

Is that a 1×2 or 1×3 frame?
 
#4 ·
Thanks wseand.

Joe, I don't plan on putting another vehicle in there unless absolutely necessary for maintenance. These are 1×3 frame members milled from 2×4 studs.
 
#5 ·
the cracked foundation

A lot going on here.

Cracked foundation (repaired)
Old, rotted wooden barn sliding door visible on lower left (one of 2). Not an option to rehab as they are on the eave side of the buidling, no header, 80% of the length of the building, never seal and let a great deal of cold air inside.
3" crushed limestone over the compacted soil base, after the tree roots which cracked and heaved the original floor were removed.
Part of the plastic vapor barrier which is laid under the temporary OSB floor.
The lolly gag support, encased in ply. This was placed after I removed the sole supporting structure on this entire wall, a simple 4×4 post. However, the bottom 3" of the post had rotted away, so there was NO support at all. Causing the roof to sag in the middle.
You can also see the wooden bridge which has been spanning my "Moat" for the last several months.

Wood Grass Bedrock Groundcover Gas
 

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#6 ·
the cracked foundation

A lot going on here.

Cracked foundation (repaired)
Old, rotted wooden barn sliding door visible on lower left (one of 2). Not an option to rehab as they are on the eave side of the buidling, no header, 80% of the length of the building, never seal and let a great deal of cold air inside.
3" crushed limestone over the compacted soil base, after the tree roots which cracked and heaved the original floor were removed.
Part of the plastic vapor barrier which is laid under the temporary OSB floor.
The lolly gag support, encased in ply. This was placed after I removed the sole supporting structure on this entire wall, a simple 4×4 post. However, the bottom 3" of the post had rotted away, so there was NO support at all. Causing the roof to sag in the middle.
You can also see the wooden bridge which has been spanning my "Moat" for the last several months.

Wood Grass Bedrock Groundcover Gas
John, You have your work cut out for you. But in the end you will be very pleased with it, I'm sure. I'm looking forward to the completed shop and lots a pictures. hint hint. lol It is the only way we can be there by proxy. Rand
 

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#11 ·
Doors

I am really bad about stopping to take photos.

Wood Engineering Table Machine Tradesman

The picture is taken while standing on a chair. The door is wrong side up with the top of the door closest to the bottom of the picture. The door is actually laying on top of the table saw for ease of access. My back is screaming from trimming the first door while on short saw horses. Live and learn (hurt).

The first door is laying on the floor. Needs one edge trimmed with flush trim router bit.
The second door frame is in progress.
One stile is squared up via the factory plywood edge. Glued, clamped and brad nailed.
Next, the top rail is lined up, glue applied and the pocket screws are driven home. Clamps are applied and then more brads.
Same with the middle and then the bottom rails.
Finally, the opposite stile is aligned, glued and the pocket screws are driven starting again with the top rail, middle then bottom. Clamps applied and more brads.

Wood Wood stain Plank Tradesman Hardwood

Wood Tool Line Flooring Hardwood


Purists may notice the luan on the completed door is upside down. This is done for a reason. Pure self satisfaction. I like the "wood" look and since I will be the one looking at it on a regular basis, I turned it this way.

The doors are based on the article published in Fine Wood Working, 2010 Tools and Shops. Interior frame is 1×3, milled from 2×4. The original intent was to use poplar but I didn't have any to mill and my budget is shot.

Exterior skin is 1/2" bcx.
1×3 interior skeleton frame.
1" EPS white foam sheets in both left and right bays.
Interior skin is 1/4" luan ply.

Due to the budget, I will be holding off on the windows for now. So at the helpful suggestion of my father in law, I put EPS foam in the upper bay also before gluing the 1/4" luan inside skin.

Tomorrow, I will cut the foam for the second door, route the edges flush and install the hinges. Hopefully, I will not screw that up. Hanging on the hinges scares me. Never done it before. Wish me luck. Then, I will go to work for 12 hours. Ugh.
 

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#12 ·
Doors

I am really bad about stopping to take photos.

Wood Engineering Table Machine Tradesman

The picture is taken while standing on a chair. The door is wrong side up with the top of the door closest to the bottom of the picture. The door is actually laying on top of the table saw for ease of access. My back is screaming from trimming the first door while on short saw horses. Live and learn (hurt).

The first door is laying on the floor. Needs one edge trimmed with flush trim router bit.
The second door frame is in progress.
One stile is squared up via the factory plywood edge. Glued, clamped and brad nailed.
Next, the top rail is lined up, glue applied and the pocket screws are driven home. Clamps are applied and then more brads.
Same with the middle and then the bottom rails.
Finally, the opposite stile is aligned, glued and the pocket screws are driven starting again with the top rail, middle then bottom. Clamps applied and more brads.

Wood Wood stain Plank Tradesman Hardwood

Wood Tool Line Flooring Hardwood


Purists may notice the luan on the completed door is upside down. This is done for a reason. Pure self satisfaction. I like the "wood" look and since I will be the one looking at it on a regular basis, I turned it this way.

The doors are based on the article published in Fine Wood Working, 2010 Tools and Shops. Interior frame is 1×3, milled from 2×4. The original intent was to use poplar but I didn't have any to mill and my budget is shot.

Exterior skin is 1/2" bcx.
1×3 interior skeleton frame.
1" EPS white foam sheets in both left and right bays.
Interior skin is 1/4" luan ply.

Due to the budget, I will be holding off on the windows for now. So at the helpful suggestion of my father in law, I put EPS foam in the upper bay also before gluing the 1/4" luan inside skin.

Tomorrow, I will cut the foam for the second door, route the edges flush and install the hinges. Hopefully, I will not screw that up. Hanging on the hinges scares me. Never done it before. Wish me luck. Then, I will go to work for 12 hours. Ugh.
You're doing good!

Yes, I think I'd have the foam everywhere I could put it… Extra insulation can't hurt and could really make the difference in Summer & Winter…

Thank you.
 

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#22 ·
Doors are Up

It's ugly but it's also FAR from done. Still needs top and bottom stops, top sill (?), trim, paint, locks, windows cut and built, etc. The old flashing needs repaired to resolve the "dip" in the middle, fascia replaced and trim boards. However, as of today, I no longer have to enlist my FIL to help lift and stand the old doors in order to close the building up. Those suckers are easily 200 lbs each.

The drains are not complete and the photo makes it look worse than it really is.

Photobucket
 
#33 ·
Primer for the doors

Emma (with safety glasses) REALLY wanted to help prime the new doors. It was interesting but fun. Only problem is we were out of daylight and we won't be home together tomorrow. So we did the only logical / *********************************** thing. Headlights from the truck!
Photobucket
 
#39 ·
DIY Drywall Outlet marker

I've had my outlets in place for a long time. Insulation and drywall are next. My first attempt at precutting my panels for the existing outlets didn't go so well.

I didn't want to pay $15 for a drywall marker for the next panels so I made one. 1 Gang Mud Ring, small drill bit, super glue and a few cut off brads and I'm all set!

DIY Drywall Outlet Marker, Single gang mud ring, small drill bit, several cutoff brads and some superglue. Install upside down on an existing outlet box, push the drywall panel up against it, connect the dots left by the brads and cut. Viola.

DIY Drywall Outlet Marker, Single gang mud ring, small drill bit, several cutoff brads and some superglue. Install upside down on an existing outlet box, push the drywall panel up against it, connect the dots left by the brads and cut. Viola.

Install this (inside out) onto the existing outlet box and push the drywall against it. Connect the dots on on the drywall and Cut. No need to remove the outlet to mark with chalk or lipstick (they way I was taught thirty years ago).

Or so I thought.

Couple of issues. The marking pins are roughly centered in the mud ring walls. However, the center of the walls does not represent the actual required opening which would be the OUTSIDE of the walls. Thus you STILL have to make the cut larger but at least you know approximately where to make it. Notice the pencil line connecting the dots ended up being too small. Tracing the jig resulted in the correct opening size.

Photobucket

Next problem, the screw length. Simply taking the outlet screws and inserting into the jig doesn't work as the screws ended up too short.

Photobucket

A little more retro-engineering with the hacksaw and razor knife fixes this.

Photobucket

(For those that look inot backgrounds, the cut marks in the fence are from the previous owner, not me).

Photobucket

Now it fits nicely.

Photobucket

Still a wee bit tight but since this is only a trial, I will know what to do on the next piece. This was only a 1' x 1' test piece.

Photobucket

Not too shabby.
Photobucket

Why am I messing with this and taking so many pictures instead of just installing the drywall you ask? Because it's 110+ plus in the shop and I really don't want to get that hot! Hopefully soon, I will be able to enjoy a cool shop in the summer and a warm shop in the winter.
 
#46 ·
Umm. It's pretty hot in there.

Before trying to solve the heat problems, I wanted to document how hot it really was. So I picked an $8 indoor/outdoor remote thermometer. I placed one sensor in the shop at ceiling level. No desire to climb the ladder and place it at peak height. The plan is record temps today (and stay out of the oven), cut the roof tomorrow morning before it's too stinking hot and install ridge venting and see how much it helps.

Forecast for the today and tomorrow are similar. HOT.

Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

Tomorrow will be even hotter.

250d627c, Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

Current readings from the remote thermometer. "Out" is actually the shop sensor.

Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

Hopefully I will see a significant change. Once that happens, I will record how the window a/c effects it.
 
#47 ·
LOL,
same temps here in MN…my shop is in an attached garage that just happens to have a window into the house.
I put a fan in the window and sucked all the air-conditioning out of the house, blowing it into the garage.
Worked great, but it really pissed off Mama, as it really warmed up the upstairs bedroom and she couldnt sleep.
 
#55 ·
The Rebuild Begins

If you haven't kept up, take a look at the forum entry ""Woodshop Disaster Today"":http://lumberjocks.com/topics/55735

Taking advantage of the situation to do more work on the shop. In years past, I busted up and hauled away (by hand, one truck load at a time), the cracked and heaved concrete floor. It was so bad, you could not even take a step without either dropping or climbing 6" either way. After it was removed, I spread and compacted 15 tons of crushed limestone. Plastic vapor barrier on that forming "tub" inside the perimeter. 25/32" OSB was laid on top of that for my finished floor. Pouring a new concrete floor wasn't in the budget and frankly I like the wood floor. However, the addition of a furnace has caused the panels to warp. They were not secured to anything since there was nothing beneath.

So with all the damage from the "disaster" and the need to replace a few OSB panels, I decided to make it that much better and solve the warpage. 6" of snow outside with temps in the mid teens makes it difficult to take all the stuff out of the shop. So instead, I'm forced to move and relocate all of the stuff. Over and over.

After shifting all the belongings to one side of the shop, I began to remove the OSB panels. New 2×4 PT sleepers were placed along the perimeter then 16" O.C perpendicular to OSB layout. 1'-1/2" x 1-1/2" thick rigid foam panels were laid between each sleeper.

Blue Textile Wood Interior design Table


Wood Flooring Floor World Hardwood


It has been SLOW going but steady. It would go really quick if it weren't for having to constantly move all the stuff, shifting from one side to the other. An empty space could have been done in about 1 day. As it stands, I'm about 80% complete after 2 days.

While I don't have a bunch of headroom to begin with I am giving up a mere 1-1/2". However, I now have a floor system which allows al OSB panels to be screwed flat. The floor is now flat and interlocking as it should be. It will also increase the comfort of the shop.

Stay tuned.
 

Attachments

#56 ·
The Rebuild Begins

If you haven't kept up, take a look at the forum entry ""Woodshop Disaster Today"":http://lumberjocks.com/topics/55735

Taking advantage of the situation to do more work on the shop. In years past, I busted up and hauled away (by hand, one truck load at a time), the cracked and heaved concrete floor. It was so bad, you could not even take a step without either dropping or climbing 6" either way. After it was removed, I spread and compacted 15 tons of crushed limestone. Plastic vapor barrier on that forming "tub" inside the perimeter. 25/32" OSB was laid on top of that for my finished floor. Pouring a new concrete floor wasn't in the budget and frankly I like the wood floor. However, the addition of a furnace has caused the panels to warp. They were not secured to anything since there was nothing beneath.

So with all the damage from the "disaster" and the need to replace a few OSB panels, I decided to make it that much better and solve the warpage. 6" of snow outside with temps in the mid teens makes it difficult to take all the stuff out of the shop. So instead, I'm forced to move and relocate all of the stuff. Over and over.

After shifting all the belongings to one side of the shop, I began to remove the OSB panels. New 2×4 PT sleepers were placed along the perimeter then 16" O.C perpendicular to OSB layout. 1'-1/2" x 1-1/2" thick rigid foam panels were laid between each sleeper.

Blue Textile Wood Interior design Table


Wood Flooring Floor World Hardwood


It has been SLOW going but steady. It would go really quick if it weren't for having to constantly move all the stuff, shifting from one side to the other. An empty space could have been done in about 1 day. As it stands, I'm about 80% complete after 2 days.

While I don't have a bunch of headroom to begin with I am giving up a mere 1-1/2". However, I now have a floor system which allows al OSB panels to be screwed flat. The floor is now flat and interlocking as it should be. It will also increase the comfort of the shop.

Stay tuned.
Looking GOOD!

At this rate, you will be done by New Years!

Merry Christmas
and
Happy New Years!
 

Attachments

#57 ·
Proof of Concept and LVL Beam

Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.



There were several cracks. I was debating how to address it but have decided to simply eliminate the cracked section and thus widening the existing opening. This actually will be an improvement as the area beyond wall was a bit difficult to access. This requires installing an appropriately sized LVL Beam. In fact, 2 LVL's sistered together. Wasn't counting on the ugly blue color. Guess I'll have to cover that up some how.

Wood Floor Wall Wood stain Paint


Wood Flooring Floor House Gas


This is a great improvement over what was original. The brain child who placed the "Header" (if you can call it that) did such a poor job of planning. Seriously, there were (2) 2×6x10' sistered together, resting on a single jack stud on either side. The decision to remove this undersized beam was the perfect excuse to do it right.

This was a very painful exercise today as I was working by myself. A series of lolly gags allowed me to slowly jack the LVL's into place. The first one didn't go so well. It was under such tension, it literally sprang out and smacked me in the neck. However, the wall itself was quite secure by other lolly gags staggered along the length of the wall. Kind of shred my insulation but there will be a plastic vapor barrier added before the sheathing goes up. So it's all good.

Needless to say, those suckers are quite heavy (12'-7" x 11-7/8") and trying to press them into place was a challenge. Ultimately, I was able to install them then remove all lolly gags and everything fits much better before.

I also did a bit of experimenting and have decided to install my 12" sliding CMS into a cubby hole in the new wall. This in an effort to control the dust. I will build a dust shroud/chute that will funnel into the dust collector piping. A blast gate will be installed behind the wall with a push/pull mechanism to open/close the blast gate from the front side of the wall. I clamped the miter saw in place to work out my concept.

Wood Tradesman Gas Composite material Engineering
 

Attachments

#58 ·
Proof of Concept and LVL Beam

Most of the floor is complete but there are areas I couldn't address until the wall was reconstructed. Once the wall sheathing was gone I found damage to the foundation wall.



There were several cracks. I was debating how to address it but have decided to simply eliminate the cracked section and thus widening the existing opening. This actually will be an improvement as the area beyond wall was a bit difficult to access. This requires installing an appropriately sized LVL Beam. In fact, 2 LVL's sistered together. Wasn't counting on the ugly blue color. Guess I'll have to cover that up some how.

Wood Floor Wall Wood stain Paint


Wood Flooring Floor House Gas


This is a great improvement over what was original. The brain child who placed the "Header" (if you can call it that) did such a poor job of planning. Seriously, there were (2) 2×6x10' sistered together, resting on a single jack stud on either side. The decision to remove this undersized beam was the perfect excuse to do it right.

This was a very painful exercise today as I was working by myself. A series of lolly gags allowed me to slowly jack the LVL's into place. The first one didn't go so well. It was under such tension, it literally sprang out and smacked me in the neck. However, the wall itself was quite secure by other lolly gags staggered along the length of the wall. Kind of shred my insulation but there will be a plastic vapor barrier added before the sheathing goes up. So it's all good.

Needless to say, those suckers are quite heavy (12'-7" x 11-7/8") and trying to press them into place was a challenge. Ultimately, I was able to install them then remove all lolly gags and everything fits much better before.

I also did a bit of experimenting and have decided to install my 12" sliding CMS into a cubby hole in the new wall. This in an effort to control the dust. I will build a dust shroud/chute that will funnel into the dust collector piping. A blast gate will be installed behind the wall with a push/pull mechanism to open/close the blast gate from the front side of the wall. I clamped the miter saw in place to work out my concept.

Wood Tradesman Gas Composite material Engineering
Looking GOOD!

Keep on plugging away…

Take care…
 

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