I have had numerous requests for a how to blog about my dyeing techniques.
I use water base aniline dyes. This technique the dye is applied using 20 cent sponge brushes and cheap paper towels. I typically work from the darkest colors to the lightest, creating layers of color.
This piece is turned from fiddle back maple. My apologies for not taking a photograph prior to applying any dyes.
The first coat is black. I apply the dye liberally inside and out. I then wipe the outside with a paper towel saturated with clean water and allow the piece to dry.
After this coat has dried, I sand the outside aggressively with 180 grit sandpaper.
The second coat is applied with a sponge brush to the outside of the vessel and wiped down with a wet paper towel. I used red for the second color.
After the red has dried, I sand semi-aggressively with 320 grit sandpaper.
Yellow dye is then applied as the final layer of color.
After the vessel has dried, I will then apply several coats of wipe-on poly.
The much awaited and anticipated blog on dying. I have to tell you, it's a little of a let-down because I thought you used magic somewhere in the process. I actually have one of your pieces set as my desktop background on my computer; "Fireball" I believe. So, do you wet-sand in between coats, or is there something you do special to the final coat to get that beautiful shine?
20 cent sponges? I don't have any tool in my shop that cost 20 cents…including parts I bought to fix things up.
This is more than I can handle… And paper towels? Though I'll probably find out the dye is $80 bucks an ounce…so that'll make me feel better.
He did leave out a step. It's the "Magic Dust" that he mixes into the last color and applies with a special gold tipped brush made from Blue Phoenix Bird Tail Feathers.
The magic happens when the multiple coats of wipe-on poly is applied with an old tee shirt torn into strips. I do not wet sand between coats. I will sand between the first several coats with 320 grit sandpaper. The last few coats will be sanded between coats with 0000 steel wool. This is the same color scheme as "Fireball."
The first few coats of wipe-on poly will bring out the rich deep blacks. I will sand through the finish slightly, which will make the highlights pop. The last several coats are simply building the depth and gloss of the finish.
don't forget step 1: put on gloves. lol.
Thanks for the tutorial. It sound like the real trick is just to try new stuff and not be afraid to get a little crazy sometimes. Is 3 layers the maximum number of colors you will apply? Do you almost always start with a black?
Thanks Joe for the tutorial, it is amazing what you can do with your color technique. Facinating to say the least. You have made us all much richer in knowledge, very giving of you. Thanks. mike
I chose water based aniline dyes because research shows that they are the most light fast. I also like to be able to manipulate the dyes with wet paper towels.
I did not sand the yellow prior to applying the wipe-on poly. Some of the dye will come off on my rag while applying the first couple of coats of wipe-on poly. I will sand through parts of the finish on the first couple of coats also. This makes the highlights pop and cleans up some of the muddy dark colors.
Joe, I was just pointed to your LJ page by Shannon Rogers. I first have to say WOW your dyed pieces are just stunning. Thank you also for sharing this technique. I will be giving this a try on my next curly maple joystick case. The guys will just go ga-ga when they see this.
Thanks for posting. I want to do a project using dye… didn't have a clue as to how…
In practice, my blue and yellow turned green… obviously, blue not dry enough. I used poplar wood scrap. It aActed a bit like pine… blotched, I think it needs a little sealer first to even out. I didn't sand enough to bring back bare wood for the next colors. Lessons learned… I was in a bit of a rush… always a mistake in itself.
Again, thanks for your method… you do beautiful work.
Thanks for sharing. Great How to 2torial.
Thanks again, Trifern.
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