I have had numerous requests for a how to blog about my dyeing techniques.
I use water base aniline dyes. This technique the dye is applied using 20 cent sponge brushes and cheap paper towels. I typically work from the darkest colors to the lightest, creating layers of color.
This piece is turned from fiddle back maple. My apologies for not taking a photograph prior to applying any dyes.
The first coat is black. I apply the dye liberally inside and out. I then wipe the outside with a paper towel saturated with clean water and allow the piece to dry.

After this coat has dried, I sand the outside aggressively with 180 grit sandpaper.

The second coat is applied with a sponge brush to the outside of the vessel and wiped down with a wet paper towel. I used red for the second color.

After the red has dried, I sand semi-aggressively with 320 grit sandpaper.

Yellow dye is then applied as the final layer of color.

After the vessel has dried, I will then apply several coats of wipe-on poly.

You can view my project here.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.

















47 comments so far
DaleM
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691 posts in 1189 days
#1 posted 1072 days ago
The much awaited and anticipated blog on dying. I have to tell you, it’s a little of a let-down because I thought you used magic somewhere in the process. I actually have one of your pieces set as my desktop background on my computer; “Fireball” I believe. So, do you wet-sand in between coats, or is there something you do special to the final coat to get that beautiful shine?
-- Dale Manning, Carthage, NY
BarryW
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1012 posts in 1712 days
#2 posted 1072 days ago
20 cent sponges? I don’t have any tool in my shop that cost 20 cents…including parts I bought to fix things up.
This is more than I can handle… And paper towels? Though I’ll probably find out the dye is $80 bucks an ounce…so that’ll make me feel better.
-- /\/\/\ BarryW /\/\/\ Stay so busy you don't have time to die.
mmh
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2793 posts in 1527 days
#3 posted 1072 days ago
He did leave out a step. It’s the “Magic Dust” that he mixes into the last color and applies with a special gold tipped brush made from Blue Phoenix Bird Tail Feathers.
Sorry, I told all.
Nice Blog!
-- "They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night." ~ Edgar Allan Poe
savannah505
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1566 posts in 1391 days
#4 posted 1072 days ago
Cool Joe – Thanks for the info, I can see it will turn out beautiful. – Dan
-- Dan Wiggins
trifern
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8113 posts in 1572 days
#5 posted 1072 days ago
The magic happens when the multiple coats of wipe-on poly is applied with an old tee shirt torn into strips. I do not wet sand between coats. I will sand between the first several coats with 320 grit sandpaper. The last few coats will be sanded between coats with 0000 steel wool. This is the same color scheme as “Fireball.”
The first few coats of wipe-on poly will bring out the rich deep blacks. I will sand through the finish slightly, which will make the highlights pop. The last several coats are simply building the depth and gloss of the finish.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.
HokieMojo
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2087 posts in 1533 days
#6 posted 1072 days ago
don’t forget step 1: put on gloves. lol.
Thanks for the tutorial. It sound like the real trick is just to try new stuff and not be afraid to get a little crazy sometimes. Is 3 layers the maximum number of colors you will apply? Do you almost always start with a black?
jockmike2
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10641 posts in 2052 days
#7 posted 1071 days ago
Thanks Joe for the tutorial, it is amazing what you can do with your color technique. Facinating to say the least. You have made us all much richer in knowledge, very giving of you. Thanks. mike
-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -
a1Jim
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56336 posts in 1382 days
#8 posted 1071 days ago
Hey Joe
your dyeing technique are flawless. This title should be posted with all your work “2 dye 4.” Thanks for sharing great job.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com
DAN
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8536 posts in 1788 days
#9 posted 1071 days ago
thanks for posting .. I like your style
-- ART FOR LIFE'S SAKE ....arts and crafts style
Alan
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442 posts in 1209 days
#10 posted 1071 days ago
Thanks for sharing, I like many other always love the finishes on your pieces.
-- Alan, Prince George
Rj
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1018 posts in 1436 days
#11 posted 1070 days ago
Joe Thanks so much for the how to ! this technique will come in handy for alot of my projects .
Thanks again !!!
-- Rj's Woodworks,San Jose & Weed Ca,
cabinetmaster
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10875 posts in 1363 days
#12 posted 1070 days ago
Thanks Joe for the tutorial. You make it sound so simple. I’ll mark this so I can try it sometime real soon. Thanks again.
-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps
trifern
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8113 posts in 1572 days
#13 posted 1070 days ago
HokieMojo, I have applied up to 4 colors. I sometimes start with blue instead of black. The important thing is to try new things and have fun.
Thanks for all the feedback.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.
barryrichardson
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6 posts in 1116 days
#14 posted 1069 days ago
Why do you choose water based dyes rather than alcohol based? Did you sand any after the yellow coat, or does it not raise the grain at that stage?
-- Barry, Goodyear AZ
trifern
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8113 posts in 1572 days
#15 posted 1069 days ago
Hi Barry,
I chose water based aniline dyes because research shows that they are the most light fast. I also like to be able to manipulate the dyes with wet paper towels.
I did not sand the yellow prior to applying the wipe-on poly. Some of the dye will come off on my rag while applying the first couple of coats of wipe-on poly. I will sand through parts of the finish on the first couple of coats also. This makes the highlights pop and cleans up some of the muddy dark colors.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.
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