I have had numerous requests for a how to blog about my dyeing techniques.
I use water base aniline dyes. This technique the dye is applied using 20 cent sponge brushes and cheap paper towels. I typically work from the darkest colors to the lightest, creating layers of color.
This piece is turned from fiddle back maple. My apologies for not taking a photograph prior to applying any dyes.
The first coat is black. I apply the dye liberally inside and out. I then wipe the outside with a paper towel saturated with clean water and allow the piece to dry.

After this coat has dried, I sand the outside aggressively with 180 grit sandpaper.

The second coat is applied with a sponge brush to the outside of the vessel and wiped down with a wet paper towel. I used red for the second color.

After the red has dried, I sand semi-aggressively with 320 grit sandpaper.

Yellow dye is then applied as the final layer of color.

After the vessel has dried, I will then apply several coats of wipe-on poly.

You can view my project here.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.






















23 comments so far
DaleM
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392 posts in 262 days
posted 145 days ago
The much awaited and anticipated blog on dying. I have to tell you, it’s a little of a let-down because I thought you used magic somewhere in the process. I actually have one of your pieces set as my desktop background on my computer; “Fireball” I believe. So, do you wet-sand in between coats, or is there something you do special to the final coat to get that beautiful shine?
-- Dale Manning, Carthage, NY
BarryW
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869 posts in 785 days
posted 145 days ago
20 cent sponges? I don’t have any tool in my shop that cost 20 cents…including parts I bought to fix things up.
This is more than I can handle… And paper towels? Though I’ll probably find out the dye is $80 bucks an ounce…so that’ll make me feel better.
-- /\/\/\ BarryW /\/\/\ Stay so busy you don't have time to die.
mmh
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1366 posts in 601 days
posted 145 days ago
He did leave out a step. It’s the “Magic Dust” that he mixes into the last color and applies with a special gold tipped brush made from Blue Phoenix Bird Tail Feathers.
Sorry, I told all.
Nice Blog!
-- "They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night." ~ Edgar Allan Poe
savannah505
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971 posts in 465 days
posted 145 days ago
Cool Joe – Thanks for the info, I can see it will turn out beautiful. – Dan
-- Dan Wiggins
trifern
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7890 posts in 646 days
posted 145 days ago
The magic happens when the multiple coats of wipe-on poly is applied with an old tee shirt torn into strips. I do not wet sand between coats. I will sand between the first several coats with 320 grit sandpaper. The last few coats will be sanded between coats with 0000 steel wool. This is the same color scheme as “Fireball.”
The first few coats of wipe-on poly will bring out the rich deep blacks. I will sand through the finish slightly, which will make the highlights pop. The last several coats are simply building the depth and gloss of the finish.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.
HokieMojo
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1136 posts in 606 days
posted 145 days ago
don’t forget step 1: put on gloves. lol.
Thanks for the tutorial. It sound like the real trick is just to try new stuff and not be afraid to get a little crazy sometimes. Is 3 layers the maximum number of colors you will apply? Do you almost always start with a black?
jockmike2
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7222 posts in 1125 days
posted 145 days ago
Thanks Joe for the tutorial, it is amazing what you can do with your color technique. Facinating to say the least. You have made us all much richer in knowledge, very giving of you. Thanks. mike
-- Mike. mwurm13@yahoo.com
a1Jim
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15557 posts in 455 days
posted 145 days ago
Hey Joe
your dyeing technique are flawless. This title should be posted with all your work “2 dye 4.” Thanks for sharing great job.
-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon
DAN
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6396 posts in 861 days
posted 145 days ago
thanks for posting .. I like your style
-- work from your heart and your spirit will live forever
Alan
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200 posts in 283 days
posted 144 days ago
Thanks for sharing, I like many other always love the finishes on your pieces.
-- Alan, Prince George
Rj
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524 posts in 510 days
posted 143 days ago
Joe Thanks so much for the how to ! this technique will come in handy for alot of my projects .
Thanks again !!!
-- Rj's Woodworks,San Jose & Weed Ca,
cabinetmaster
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7999 posts in 437 days
posted 143 days ago
Thanks Joe for the tutorial. You make it sound so simple. I’ll mark this so I can try it sometime real soon. Thanks again.
-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps
trifern
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7890 posts in 646 days
posted 143 days ago
HokieMojo, I have applied up to 4 colors. I sometimes start with blue instead of black. The important thing is to try new things and have fun.
Thanks for all the feedback.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.
barryrichardson
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6 posts in 189 days
posted 142 days ago
Why do you choose water based dyes rather than alcohol based? Did you sand any after the yellow coat, or does it not raise the grain at that stage?
-- Barry, Goodyear AZ
trifern
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7890 posts in 646 days
posted 142 days ago
Hi Barry,
I chose water based aniline dyes because research shows that they are the most light fast. I also like to be able to manipulate the dyes with wet paper towels.
I did not sand the yellow prior to applying the wipe-on poly. Some of the dye will come off on my rag while applying the first couple of coats of wipe-on poly. I will sand through parts of the finish on the first couple of coats also. This makes the highlights pop and cleans up some of the muddy dark colors.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.
Woodhacker
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1145 posts in 602 days
posted 142 days ago
Joe, thanks for the blog…I will defintely be trying this sometime…I’m even thinking of a box I could do this on.
Thanks again.
-- Martin, Kansas
barryrichardson
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6 posts in 189 days
posted 141 days ago
Thanks for the answers Joe! I think I might give that a go. Who makes the dyes you use?
-- Barry, Goodyear AZ
trifern
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7890 posts in 646 days
posted 140 days ago
I use the powder aniline dyes mixed with water sold by Craft Supply USA.
-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.
David Blair
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3 posts in 76 days
posted 72 days ago
Thank you for the Blog, It prompted me to join Lumberjacks. I will try your method on a hollow form ,box or bowl in the future.
-- Dyye
tomakazi
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241 posts in 161 days
posted 62 days ago
Thanks Joe, you are the Master!!!
-- I'm not here for your amusement. You're here for mine - Johnny Rotten
Kaytrim
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56 posts in 454 days
posted 58 days ago
Joe, I was just pointed to your LJ page by Shannon Rogers. I first have to say WOW your dyed pieces are just stunning. Thank you also for sharing this technique. I will be giving this a try on my next curly maple joystick case. The guys will just go ga-ga when they see this.
Thanks,
Michael
-- Computer programmer by day, fine woodworker by night. Custom made joysticks for Console Systems and Personal Computers.
blackcherry
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711 posts in 701 days
posted 51 days ago
Great work Joe and a special thanks for sharing this technique with all here on the site….Blkcherry
dustyal
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423 posts in 354 days
posted 36 days ago
Thanks for posting. I want to do a project using dye… didn’t have a clue as to how…
In practice, my blue and yellow turned green… obviously, blue not dry enough. I used poplar wood scrap. It aActed a bit like pine… blotched, I think it needs a little sealer first to even out. I didn’t sand enough to bring back bare wood for the next colors. Lessons learned… I was in a bit of a rush… always a mistake in itself.
Again, thanks for your method… you do beautiful work.
-- Al H.