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Sawstop and Incra set up problems...

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Forum topic by jackson74 posted 05-25-2015 09:55 PM 793 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jackson74

10 posts in 568 days


05-25-2015 09:55 PM

I am having a real hard time with getting this set up to work…

I have the router table and had that up and running quick but getting the TS fence and rails has been nothing but hassles…

First (as posted before) a bolt stripped and broke … Now I have that rethreaded and fixed but the set up just seems off.. It is not smooth or gliding at all … There is tons of up/down carriage play /slop when moving… The fence hit the iron extensions and does not ride above the table top when moving for rips (yes I shimmed them)

It seems to bind a bit at the extremes of the travel (near blade and near base assembly)

I have been through the complete assembly 3 times now and each time the same…

any ideas? I had the original simple 30” SS fence on a working perfect before this..

Thanks for any help,


10 replies so far

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

327 posts in 1128 days


#1 posted 05-26-2015 04:26 AM

Give Incra a call and tell them your problems. They are great to work with and will walk you through the setup until it’s working properly.

-- Earl

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jackson74

10 posts in 568 days


#2 posted 05-26-2015 06:16 AM

Thanks Earl…

The main thing is when I follow their instruction and remove the cardboard shims, then move the positioner/fence back to tighten the fence on it seems to slip on the back rail.. Then it hits the iron extension on that back side when I bring it back in towards the blade…

If I bring it back up to the miter slot/ rail bracket then re-shim and tighten the fence back from there it seems to work fine…

Not sure why the fence needs to be tightened back by the mounting bracket for the positioner? I really do not like straying from instructions…

Hope this make sense…

View JeffP's profile

JeffP

573 posts in 851 days


#3 posted 05-26-2015 10:37 AM

I agree with Earl. I have found Incra to be very generous with their time and good at solving issues.

Give them a call.

-- Last week I finally got my $*i# together. Unfortunately, it was in my shop, so I will probably never find it again.

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Putttn

53 posts in 1737 days


#4 posted 05-26-2015 12:44 PM

The only thing I can tell you is I have the SS with the Incra TS LS and it is working fine for me. Once it is locked down it is solid. Mine does not hit the table extension. I did put some wax on the little hooks that run along the underside of the slot on the rails and made sure there weren’t any burs that could impede the travel. Make sure the hooks are on the correct side of the rails also. I have had to loosen the 6 bolts a few times to make sure that the fence is parallel to the miter slot. There is a couple of write ups on the web on how guys have accomplished that.
I do sometimes get a little binding and that has been caused by the clamps on the rails not being loose enough.

-- Bill eastern Washington

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retfr8flyr

327 posts in 1128 days


#5 posted 05-26-2015 02:37 PM

I had problems setting up mine initially also. I called Incra and he walked me through a slightly different procedure and I haven’t had any trouble with it since. Just give them a call, like I said they are great to work with.

-- Earl

View Shadowrider's profile

Shadowrider

183 posts in 668 days


#6 posted 05-26-2015 04:47 PM

Mine wasn’t real smooth either. I started over and found I had missed a couple of things. I also learned that the rails are EVERYTHING so start there. I set my rails .500” below my table surface. I used a machinist square, but a regular will work, the main thing is to have them all exactly the same on all 4 corners of your table (the saw table, NOT the extensions). Be a perfectionist on this point! Also make sure the sides of your saw table are clean and has no burrs or dings where the rail brackets mount. The brackets have to clamp up perfectly flat so the rails are square to the top. Dress it with a file or stone if needed.

Then just follow the instructions to the letter. I found that my fence carriage was out of square with the rails even though I had the fence set perfectly with the mitre slot. A couple of things caused this. One of them was one rail had dropped about .030” on one corner somehow and that throws all subsequent settings off. The other was I just wasn’t paying attention to the details in the setup instructions enough and skipped one small thing that’s actually a big thing. I set the carriage right to the number in the manual. Further reading says this is a general number and you need to have centered (front to back) on your saw.

After going back through it, it now slides like it’s on glass.

View jakep_82's profile

jakep_82

105 posts in 1765 days


#7 posted 05-26-2015 07:16 PM

Assuming your rails are parallel to the table top, then it’s physically impossible for the fence to touch your top once adjusted correctly. What controls the height above the table are the brackets at the front and rear of the fence. Those brackets have UHMW tape on the bottom and they actually slide on the top of the rails. You need to adjust those so they’re touching the top of the rails when you shim the fence. My guess is you’re adjusting where the fence bolts to the positioner, but forgetting to set the height of those brackets. That would also explain why the fence sticks at the extremes of the range.

I actually did the same thing when I set mine up, and I had the exact same problems.

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jackson74

10 posts in 568 days


#8 posted 05-27-2015 04:29 AM

I think I got it… at least much better..

1) I think the back rail glide attachment was hung up a bit from the l thing you tighten down… I think it was lifting up a bit instead of sitting on the rail when I was tightening it… This caused it to fall below the table when the shims were removed and it was pulled back towards the carriage to tighten the fence…

That problem has been eliminated and it does not hit the cast iron extensions now…

2) The binding and un-smooth action of the fence and positioner…

A. I did have the rails set up properly… I did the clamping method in the book and assured they were pushed onto the little “l” lip on the bracket… I checked it with my depth square a few times…

I also measured the distance between the front and rear rails and they were fine over their distance…

What it seemed to be was the carriage itself… I squared it as the manual said but something was off.. It was cause the flushing up of the glides to be messed up… I thought it was something with the rails forever… But a little tweak to the carriage and the fence glides which attach to the rails stay flush through the entire travel… No more binding…

I am still not sure it glides as smooth as my 30” SS fence which came with the saw.. Perhaps a little wax will clear that up?

on another note… When doing a detailed aligning of the fence to the miter slot with a dial indicator… you loosen all the carriage screws and make tweaks and then try to tighten them to hold the fence?

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Shadowrider

183 posts in 668 days


#9 posted 05-27-2015 10:05 PM

on another note… When doing a detailed aligning of the fence to the miter slot with a dial indicator… you loosen all the carriage screws and make tweaks and then try to tighten them to hold the fence?

- jackson74

Yes. Although it’s best to just loosen 7 of them and tighten them down in sequence from the outside corners working in. Tighten carefully and recheck the alignment to your slot as you go.

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Shadowrider

183 posts in 668 days


#10 posted 05-27-2015 10:20 PM


I am still not sure it glides as smooth as my 30” SS fence which came with the saw.. Perhaps a little wax will clear that up?

- jackson74

Couple of things:

When tightening your fence glides make sure they stay in contact with the rail surface while you are doing it. It’s easy to twist them off at an angle while you are tightening.

Move the fence to about 4” (a little closer won’t hurt depending on which length you got) of the LS base and clamp the carriage. THEN tighten the fence screws. This is one of the points I forgot to do (clamping the carriage) so the carriage wasn’t in alignment along it’s travel and was binding.

After doing these and before tweaking your final alignment double check that your fence glides stay in contact with the rail surface along it’s full travel (both front and back plastic wear pads and on both rails), clamp your carriage several places and check this. As long as it does, it should be very smooth. This is where that rail leveling being precise really kicks in.

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