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Advice on Edge Banding 3/4" ply, and squaring cabinet.

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Forum topic by Don46 posted 08-31-2009 02:27 AM 3111 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Don46

43 posts in 3065 days


08-31-2009 02:27 AM

Topic tags/keywords: banding squaring

I’m building wine bins with diagonal shelves. It will consist of two cases 6’ high, 2 feet wide, with horizontal shelves between the two sets of bins. All is made out of 3/4” red oak ply. I want to put a solid oak banding about 1/4 inch thick on the edges of the ply. I’m a novice wood worker and am trying to learn techniques as I go in this project.

Here is what I’ve worked out so far:
1. to cut the 1/4 inch banding I found that it worked better to cut so that the 1/4 inch strip is on the left side of the blade. I set the fence so that it is the width of the oak board minus 3/8ths inch. It comes out very nicely and I don’t have to worry about cutting so close to the fence.

2. to attach the banding to the edge I am simply gluing and clamping. This is slow and tedious and it takes a lot of expensive clamps! Should I use my nail gun w small brads + some glue to get these attached?

3. I’m using the Kreg pocket hole jig to put all the 3/4” pieces together and am finding this a great tool for this kind of project. On most all the joints I use glue and pocket screws and it seems very strong. However, I fear not all my corners are perfectly square. This is going into a basement and it does not have to be absolutely perfect, but I’d like to get it right. How does one square up a big rectangle after it has been screwed together. What SHOULD I have done in the first place to insure that all corners were square?

-- --Don, Columbia, SC


8 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3040 days


#1 posted 08-31-2009 02:28 AM

Photos would help

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Sam Yerardi's profile

Sam Yerardi

244 posts in 3358 days


#2 posted 08-31-2009 02:04 PM

Don46
For myself, gluing would be the approach rather than nailing. The nailing will more than likely lead to splitting the banding.

As far as squaring a cabinet up, I would do that before final nailing and gluing. The typical method for checking square is to measure and compare diagonals (across the rectangle, opposite corners). When they are equal, then you know the cabinet is square. But always do this before gluing & nailing. After the fact, you can try clamping it with diagonal clamps to ‘pull’ it into square, and using glue blocks and/or bracing to hold it square. This may or may not work, depending the wood used, the dimensions, the ambient humidity (i.e., will the wood swell from being in a damp environment, etc.) and other factors.

-- Sam

View Karson's profile

Karson

35035 posts in 3863 days


#3 posted 08-31-2009 02:47 PM

I’ve put a lot of banding on the edge of my kitchen cabinets that I’m making.

I just glue it on using rubber clamps that I made. Here is the blog on that.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia karsonwm@gmail.com †

View Don46's profile

Don46

43 posts in 3065 days


#4 posted 08-31-2009 05:51 PM

I may need something more than Karson’s rubber bands to pull this 6’ cabinet into square, but it does seem to have a little give and I think I can horse it into line. Once I get it into square, the 1/4 inch backing I plan to screw onto the back will serve as a brace.
I have two of these cabinets to build, so I’ll learn before doing the second.
I will post pictures on the projects board later on.

Thanks Don

-- --Don, Columbia, SC

View MaxS's profile

MaxS

46 posts in 2656 days


#5 posted 08-31-2009 06:52 PM

I don’t know if you’ve started putting the face veneer/banding on….but if you haven’t…I’d lay the thing down on it’s front/face and then use Sam’s method to determine square. One ‘trick’ I’ve used when tools were limited for pulling large things into square was to hook a couple heavy duty loops of rope around the longer of the two diagonals, then pull the cords together with a bar clamp of somekind. That might make sense or not….it does work though.

Your 1/4” backing should be plenty to keep it square…assuming it’s not just totally off kilter. :-)

-- Socrates: "I drank what?"

View Don Newton's profile

Don Newton

714 posts in 3081 days


#6 posted 08-31-2009 07:14 PM

Your 1/4” edgeing can be “clamped” with blue painters tape. Get the good quality kind and you will be able to put some stretch on it to get some tension.

-- Don, Pittsburgh

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

5257 posts in 3344 days


#7 posted 08-31-2009 07:44 PM

Hey Don,

I did a lot of edge banding for my kitchen cabinets. I over sized them and used a flush trim bit in a router to bring them flush. I would not nail them. Glue is plenty strong and looks better.

Have you seen the thin strip jigs? They will help with creating these.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/5544
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19940
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/3259

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1510 posts in 3587 days


#8 posted 08-31-2009 09:05 PM

If your edge banding is thinner (ie: about 1/8”), you can just use blue tape to hold it to the edge while the glue dries.

¼” or thicker (I’m currently doing a bunch that’s about ¾” and I’ve found I need the extra force that clamps provide.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

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