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Need advice on veneer (rookie)

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Forum topic by rwe2156 posted 05-21-2015 02:07 PM 591 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rwe2156

2198 posts in 946 days


05-21-2015 02:07 PM

I’m looking at re-veneering some antique treadle sewing cases my wife is restoring.

I’m mainly wondering about which way to go on purchasing the veneer:

I can get 4×8 sheets and lots.

I’m thinking the 4×8 sheets will be easier to use (no edging) but I’m thinking maybe there will be some matching issues.

I’m thinking I can bookmatch if I go with serial cut lots.

Which way do you guys go and what sources can you recommend? So far I’ve looked at Oak Wood Veneer and Veneering Supplies.

What thickness would you use for a table top?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!


5 replies so far

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shipwright

7174 posts in 2264 days


#1 posted 05-21-2015 02:25 PM

I would use raw veneer. The sheet sizes are usually paper backed or two ply and the veneer is scary thin.
My advice would be to first have a look at Certainly Wood's special thickness veneer. It can be bought in 1/16” and it is way easier and better to work with than the 1/42” that is now industry standard.
If you can’t find what you need there, then you will have to go to the thinner stuff.
If they really are antique you should use hide glue. I would recommend Old Brown Glue but any hide glue will get it done. I use only hide glues for veneering as a matter of preference but with antiques you should use it because it will be what was there originally.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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jmartel

6575 posts in 1616 days


#2 posted 05-21-2015 02:55 PM

I buy all of my veneer through CertainlyWood. If you order multiple sheets from the same lot number from them, it comes sequential.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

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FellingStudio

93 posts in 1148 days


#3 posted 05-21-2015 03:00 PM

Yes, definitely use raw veneer. Another quality supplier is veneersupplies.com.

Get, or make yourself a veneer hammer and do it old school style with hide glue. There’s a few videos out there on youtube showing the technique.

For what it’s worth, if the veneer on the cases is just lifting (Ie. not broken and missing), it can be repaired with a little moisture, a heat gun, and your veneer hammer.

-- Jesse Felling - http://www.fellingstudio.com

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rwe2156

2198 posts in 946 days


#4 posted 05-21-2015 04:52 PM

I would like to get the 1/16 but can’t find any with the figure I need.

Certainlywood doesn’t have white oak.

Just remembered I have some QSWO with decent figure so I’ve decided to resaw and see what I can get.

Thanks for the responses.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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shipwright

7174 posts in 2264 days


#5 posted 05-21-2015 04:53 PM

+1 on the veneer hammer. That is how I would do it but there is a learning curve. I suggested OBG (liquid hide glue) because it has a good open time and is used just like the pva that you are likely using now.
I have a “Hide Glue for Beginners” blog that shows hammer veneering and discusses hide glue techniques and advantages in some detail.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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