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Table saw motor upgrade help

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Forum topic by EastportJohn posted 08-28-2009 06:35 PM 1603 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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EastportJohn

1 post in 2654 days


08-28-2009 06:35 PM

I am having some issues with my table saw motor and am looking to upgrade. After a lot of research I have a few questions about the best way to go.

First off a bit of background. The saw is a 1950’s era Delta Homecraft 34-500 with an 8” blade. It was my grandfather’s saw and I can’t bear to part with it. I know it would likely be a wash to upgrade to a used Unisaw or 66 but that’s not in the cards. That said, it’s a good quality cast iron saw, decent sized table with a small footprint and nice stand, and both he, my dad, and I have done a lot of quality work on it. It’s properly aligned and with an aftermarket fence, Forrest blade, and Incra mitre it can make precise cuts.

The saw really means a lot to me, so thanks in advance for any help you can give me on how to get the most out of it. In addition to the technical questions, I’d also really appreciate any opinions on the absolute best option: plenty of power, minimal vibration, and rock solid reliability.

My biggest issue is the motor (specs below). It is 1HP Dayton, not the original motor but dates to the 70s. Unfortunately it is not really adequate for ripping 8/4 hardwood, which I need to do on occassion, even with a high quality ripping blade and slow feed. Recently the motor has also started to show signs of bearing problems (gravelly sound and increased vibration) and although I’ll likely keep it and rebuild it this is a good excuse to upgrade and improve the saw.

Specs on the existing Dayton:

Model: Dayton 6K148B (last letter is a guess as it’s scratched)
1 HP
1 Phase
SF: 1.25
5/8” spindle
1725 RPM
XG56M Frame
5” cast iron aftermarket pulley
115/230v
Not TEFC

Okay, on to the “what’s the best motor” questions.

Things I know I need/want:

- TEFC
- High quality brand like Leeson/Baldor (same ownership?) or would consider one from grizzly
- 240v capable (really don’t want to run it at 120)

Questions:

HP: with a single pulley and a contractor’s saw I wouldn’t think it makes sense to go beyond 2 HP. Does that make sense?

RPM: I located the original manual on the internet and it specifies motor pulleys for both a 1725 (5”) and a 3450 RPM motor. It there an advantage to going with one over the other? Does a 1725 produce less vibration, or more because of the larger pulley? With the larger pulley does the increased surface area give it a better grip and less likely to slip/easier to transfer more power to the blade?

Type of service: Farm duty/General Purpose/Woodworking. This is a head scratcher. The farm duty seems ideal, but somehow it’s cheaper than the GP motors. This makes me wonder what the difference is, and although I’ve trolled every post/thread I could find I haven’t gotten a conclusive answer. Should I care? It’s over a $100 difference in price. Also, Leeson has a line of “woodworking” motors. Anyone have any idea what the difference is there?

Service Factor: most of what I’ve seen is 1.0 versus the existing 1.25. Should I care if I’m jumping to a 2HP motor?

Spindle size: the 2HP motors seems to have a 7/8 inch spindle. I don’t mind buying another $20 cast iron spindle, so is a bigger spindle size better? ie less vibration and more stability?

I also assume i’m restricted to a 56 frame with approximately the same weight (about 40 pounds +/-)

So, given all that, any recommendations for the best replacement motor?

I’m currently considering a Baldor general purpose, Leeson 2 hp 1725rpm 56hz Frame TEFC (Farm Duty) 230 volts # 110090, or a Grizzly H5383 Motor 2 HP Single-Phase 1725 RPM TEFC 110V/220V.

I realize that brand might be a religious question for some and these are likely all good motors, but I’d still appreciate any thoughts here. Thanks!


2 replies so far

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

17654 posts in 3137 days


#1 posted 08-29-2009 03:42 AM

Mostly, I don’t know either ;-)) but running 2 HP on 220 makes sense. The service factor of 1.0 means it will not take any overload. 1.15 means it can take 15% overload and 1.25 means 25%. Factors affecting this can be the operating voltage for instance. Say the name plate says 240v. Your input is 220. That equals 9% overload. That’s the simple explanation. I don’t know what farm duty means.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3134 days


#2 posted 08-29-2009 04:39 AM

I think its better to run a 2hp motor on 220 volt.

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