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Miter slot thing to mount dial gauge on

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Forum topic by abehil posted 05-21-2015 06:20 AM 1006 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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abehil

104 posts in 805 days


05-21-2015 06:20 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

I am in the process of aligning my table saw blade and I’m going to need some way to have my dial gauge slide along the miter slot. My dial gauge is in a set I bought to align my jointer knives and it attaches to a magnet which is good for the jointer knife task but not for the table saw application.

How perfect does the slider part need to be to get fairly accurate readings? I’d rather cobble something together than spend too much if possible. What do you use?
Hoping that being thrifty (cheap) will allow me to put my money aside for a new fence for the saw.


10 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4241 posts in 1665 days


#1 posted 05-21-2015 07:10 AM

That topic pops up from time to time… Have you read this thread?
How to align dial indicator with table saw miter slots?

You might also want to check out this page by Matthias:
https://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/alignment.html

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

1061 posts in 3080 days


#2 posted 05-21-2015 11:41 AM

I use this:

Cobbled together out of scraps in the shop. And, no, it isn’t too important to get a perfect fit in the miter slot. As long as you make sure to keep the jig pressed tightly against the edge of the miter slot closest to the sawblade, results will be accurate. It isn’t even important to get the dial indicator square to the miter slot rider.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View soob's profile

soob

223 posts in 675 days


#3 posted 05-21-2015 01:17 PM

EEngineer has it right—the important thing is to press the jig in the same direction with the same kind of pressure (also you might want to press down on a corner if yours rocks, which it probably will slightly). If you get the same readings each time as you push it up and down the miter slot you’re probably doing it right. No reason to spend $60-$whoknowshowmuch on a jig you’ll only use every once and a while.

View SirIrb's profile

SirIrb

1239 posts in 697 days


#4 posted 05-21-2015 01:23 PM

I have been thinking about making one like EEngineer with the exception of some springs in the bar. But that is really all there is to it. I am currently just using a dial caliper.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 689 days


#5 posted 05-21-2015 07:36 PM

I have 2 methods, the top one I made a yr. or so ago to check for run out, because I lost confidence in Mrs. Potatoass. She did it for me for yrs. but I began to have doubt after she was arrested for prostitution and drug use

-- I meant to do that!

View BroncoBrian's profile

BroncoBrian

435 posts in 1425 days


#6 posted 05-21-2015 08:02 PM

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 803 days


#7 posted 05-22-2015 05:12 AM

Ms. Potatoass is very hot.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 689 days


#8 posted 05-22-2015 07:28 PM

I know right! She’s a dirty … dirty girl, she fell apart when Mr. Potatohead canned her for a younger spud.

-- I meant to do that!

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1775 days


#9 posted 05-22-2015 10:05 PM

This will work. I found this on the Internet a long time ago and tried it, it works.

Make 3/4×3/4×12” hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8×1” round head wood screw about half way. UNPLUG THE SAW. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn’t, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View macatlin1's profile

macatlin1

78 posts in 2409 days


#10 posted 05-23-2015 10:41 AM

I took a short piece of 3/4 steel stock (needed a little filing to get it to fit the miter slot) and screwed it to the underside of a piece of 1×2 with some pan head screws. As you can see from the picture the screw heads easily clear the bottom of the slot. I then attached the dial indicator (~ $10 at Harbor Freight) to the side of the block by drilling a hole slightly smaller than 1/4 inch and then I screwed in a 1/4-20 bolt using the bolt itself to form the threads. I have always found the steel stock to be wider than the slot so by careful filing a good slop free fit can be obtained.

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