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Question for cabinet makers, adjacent wall clearance for cabinet doors to open

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 05-19-2015 11:03 AM 1000 views 0 times favorited 34 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Blackie_

4531 posts in 1977 days


05-19-2015 11:03 AM

Adding base cabinets to a new addition in my workshop.

After building the casings and before adding the doors, I almost forgot to take into consideration for the base cabinet door opening on the adjacent wall, the cabinets are going to be frameless full overlay double doors using 35mm European 110 degree full overlay hinges. I plan on adding pull out trays behind the doors, door handles are 3/4” high away from the door.

In the picture will show how the cabinets are sitting in the workshop corner. Using 3/4” ply for the walls, the end cabinet is up against the wall without any space, my question is since I still have plenty of room to slide the cabinets over will I need too? Will this be in conflict for the door opening and if so how much will I need to move the cabinets over for door and the top drawer to open properly also allowing the slide out tray to come out of the cabinet.

Thanks

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs


34 replies so far

View albachippie's profile

albachippie

758 posts in 2499 days


#1 posted 05-19-2015 11:56 AM

The hinge itself will be your deciding factor regarding the trays. The door will sit in to the opening of the cabinet only by around a 1/2” max. If it were mine, I would keep them off the wall by about 2”, just to allow the door to open to the full 110 degrees with your handle. With the rest of your doors, I would be tempted to use 170 degree hinges, so you can open them fully. This will give better access to your pull out trays.

Regarding the trays, you’ll need to be aware of the position of the hinge in relation to the position of your drawer. These hinges are quite big, but very good if you take your time to fit them well. I have fitted a LOT of them over the years!

Hope this makes sense and helps in some way,

Garry

-- Garry fae Bonnie Scotland - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garry-Macdonald-Woodwork/425518554215355?ref=hl

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

4531 posts in 1977 days


#2 posted 05-19-2015 12:04 PM

Thanks Garry

With the 170 degree hinges would that move both the door and the hinges out of the path on the trays? No narrowing of the trays nor fillers for the sliders to move the sliders away from the hinges?

Thanks

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2325 posts in 1761 days


#3 posted 05-19-2015 12:06 PM

Like he ^ said, I’d pull it over an inch or two so the door can open beyond 90 degrees, especially if you plan on putting a knob on the door. Or pull it over about 6 inches so the center opening is directly under the window and use that space to store some scrap sheet goods.

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

17170 posts in 2570 days


#4 posted 05-19-2015 12:09 PM

Hi Randy. I would draw it out from an above view to see the path of the door and the hinge. From that you can see the room needed. I often mock things up like that by mounting the hinge or pivot in a coupe pieces of scrap to prove it out. you want to be sure you have the clearance before fastening anything permanently.

Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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albachippie

758 posts in 2499 days


#5 posted 05-19-2015 12:33 PM

I would echo Jims comment from above. Cut your hinges into some scrap timber. That will give you an accurate idea of the swing room needed.
Regarding the 170deg, your choice of hinge, as you are aware, are fixed to the face, and, unlike conventional butt hinges, have a lot of mechanical parts, so they are going to encroach into the unit to a degree. See the pic from my desk at work. This is a 170deg hinge pretty much fully open

Hope this helps,
Garry

-- Garry fae Bonnie Scotland - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garry-Macdonald-Woodwork/425518554215355?ref=hl

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

4531 posts in 1977 days


#6 posted 05-19-2015 12:42 PM

Ok now that I see a picture of the 70 degree I have these installed on a cabinet in my kitchen,

As for as centering the unit on the window I am going to consider that option, I have a 4’ formica counter top section I was going to put in the opposite corner so will have to see if room is still an available , I was going to leave the extra open space under the Formica open for Shop vac and other storage, might still have room.

Thanks all.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

4531 posts in 1977 days


#7 posted 05-19-2015 01:04 PM

I went out and took measurements and like dhazelton suggestion of moving over 6”, that will work and will also resolve my issue with cabinet door, the cabinet unit is 8’ long and the wall is just under 12’ long which will mean I’ll lose 6” of work space on top making it 90” but that’s not going to break me, as I mentioned above the 4’ formica top will move over that much more on top and occupy that 6” and will be solely for my box pieces mating and gluing not a work top.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

1951 posts in 1453 days


#8 posted 05-19-2015 01:07 PM

I think moving it over will be good also centering the base cabinet below the window would look good.

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1834 days


#9 posted 05-19-2015 01:10 PM

You could move it out and put a set of narrow shelves or something between the last cabinet and the wall. Or, you could get a restrictor clip for the hinges (if you’re using a brand that makes them, Blum has them) that limit the opening to 86 degrees. This would however probably require you to change your pull-out design. I agree with others, move them over, you could center them under the window and probably have enough room for the 110-degree hinges to open.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4032 posts in 1816 days


#10 posted 05-19-2015 01:14 PM

Another option would be to put in a row of drawers in the left bay instead of the swing open doors.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

1159 posts in 2155 days


#11 posted 05-19-2015 01:20 PM

With Euro cabinets there should always be a 1 1/2” filler against the wall!

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

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Blackie_

4531 posts in 1977 days


#12 posted 05-19-2015 01:30 PM

Bondo, yes I thought about drawers but I think I can get more stuff in a tray than in drawers but I could be wrong there, plus it’d be less sheet ply I’d have to use in making the drawers, I’ve already got the doors cut but they’ll need some finish cuts to make them fit.

Thanks once again everyone, I knew I could count on you all :) Love this site.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

4531 posts in 1977 days


#13 posted 05-19-2015 06:49 PM

I like the changes, thanks again.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7703 posts in 2307 days


#14 posted 05-19-2015 06:54 PM

Randy,

Looks like you got some great information. Mock ups always help in designing new pieces. Kitchen cabinet layouts usually have an end panel in base cabinets to allow for door openings. How far to the right can you move your base cabinets? Could hold a waste collector? Or a small shop vac?

You’re movin on!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Blackie_

4531 posts in 1977 days


#15 posted 05-19-2015 06:57 PM

Tom, I got it now, yep that’s what that space is for, the shop vac and a small air compressor and what ever else I can cram in there :)

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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