LumberJocks

Once Again I Need Help

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by lew posted 05-18-2015 05:05 PM 784 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View lew's profile

lew

11335 posts in 3216 days


05-18-2015 05:05 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question drawer

I have been working on a custom made humidor now I have a problem and don’t know how to solve it.

The customer picked the design from a picture and then made modification/additions. I’m not experienced enough to have had the foresight to realize the problem that was going to occur.

The humidor has a glass front drawer. Within the drawer back is a dado to hold a foam seal. The drawer front is full overlay. When I make drawers, I usually build a complete box and then affix it to the drawer front. The glass window prohibits this.

I am stuck for an idea on how to attach the “partial box” to the stiles and bottom rail. The drawer isn’t too large or heavy (roughly 13” x 13”x 3”).

Any suggestion will be greatly appreciate.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.


13 replies so far

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14547 posts in 2144 days


#1 posted 05-18-2015 05:10 PM

Cut a sliding dovetail for the sides to slide up into.

Is the front Full overlay? Or, just the two sides and the top edges?

Cut the sliding dovetail. Install the sides ( back and bottom can be later) Cut and install the glass and the foam.
Once all assembled, add the two filler pieces to the bottom of the sliding dovetail’s slot. This will close up things nicely. Almost like adding a plug over a counter-bored screw. Mind the grain direction, and the plug will dissappear.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7171 posts in 2038 days


#2 posted 05-18-2015 05:14 PM

Sliding dove tails.

Dado.

Can you incorporate the bottom shelf into the foam seal dado?

If yes, I would dado and or mortice the box to the back of the drawer with
epoxy.

HTH

View lew's profile

lew

11335 posts in 3216 days


#3 posted 05-18-2015 05:14 PM

I was thinking of that, Steve, but was concerned about the dovetail slot extending thru the bottom edge of the drawer.

It is full overlay on all 4 sides.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14547 posts in 2144 days


#4 posted 05-18-2015 05:16 PM

Read on, and find the way to close that slot up.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Yonak's profile

Yonak

979 posts in 982 days


#5 posted 05-18-2015 05:25 PM

Additional ideas :

dowel pins
screws from the front if there will be some trim to cover them up
pocket screw on the inside or the outside, then plugged
dowel pin at the top and pocket screw at the bottom (in through the bottom edge)
build all four sides as you normally do but put a view hole in the front piece

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7171 posts in 2038 days


#6 posted 05-18-2015 05:29 PM

Maybe threaded inserts and use loctite on the screws

through the front.

Dowel pins are a good idea as well.

View lew's profile

lew

11335 posts in 3216 days


#7 posted 05-18-2015 05:30 PM

Got it, Steve. My old brain just misses about half of what I see.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View BroncoBrian's profile

BroncoBrian

435 posts in 1419 days


#8 posted 05-18-2015 06:27 PM

I think Yonak is right. Dominos would work great for this. #5×3 across the bottom and 2 on each side. Maybe 7 total? It would be easier if holding this in my hands, but I think it would work.

Assuming the sliding dovetail is not an option, that would be the first choice.

-- Bigfoot tries to take pictures of me

View Paul's profile (online now)

Paul

442 posts in 3050 days


#9 posted 05-18-2015 06:40 PM

Thinking outside the box: he he

1. make the box
2 attach the front (without the glass opening
3. mill out the glass opening through the front and box at the same time
4. remove the front
5 install the glass
6. reattach the front.

-- If you say 'It's good enough', it probably isn't.

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7796 posts in 2764 days


#10 posted 05-18-2015 08:42 PM

well im late to the party, looks like its figured out, i was thinking dowel pins and also the threaded inserts, but you got it, cant wait to see it lew….

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Roger's profile

Roger

19867 posts in 2265 days


#11 posted 05-19-2015 12:33 PM

Why not pocket holes?

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

View lew's profile

lew

11335 posts in 3216 days


#12 posted 05-19-2015 12:56 PM

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Sometimes I can’t see the forest for the trees.

The sides/back of the drawer are 3/8” thick so that’s going to limit my options, I think, to dados or dovetails. I like the sliding dovetail idea, now that Steve pointed out the technique of filling the exposed slots. The dovetail should also make a more secure connection, compared to the dado.

I am trying to keep the number of metal objects, inside the humidor, to a bare minimum.

Again, thanks for all of the help. It is truly appreciated.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View mafe's profile

mafe

11137 posts in 2550 days


#13 posted 05-20-2015 09:07 AM

;-) Look forward to see where it ends.
Too late here.
Smiles,
Mads

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com