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Forum topic by pdxrealtor posted 05-15-2015 06:30 PM 962 views 1 time favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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pdxrealtor

104 posts in 686 days


05-15-2015 06:30 PM

I’ve been adding a lot of new fencing, and will soon do the same with decking, and would like to maintain the ‘new’ look.

I used PT and cedar (i like the dark brown pt wood look).

What product(s) can I apply that will keep the wood from graying yet still maintain the original colors?


24 replies so far

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BurlyBob

3660 posts in 1727 days


#1 posted 05-15-2015 06:42 PM

I used superdeck oil stain in a heart redwood color. You can see the color of a cedar fence and gate I built a couple of years ago, check my projects. The following year we put another coat and the color got even darker.

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pdxrealtor

104 posts in 686 days


#2 posted 05-15-2015 06:47 PM

Is the first picture before any stain? Or after the first coat?

The first picture is what I”m after, the other pictures are too dark for me.

I want to clear coat the wood for the sole purpose of protection from the elements. UV as much as water.

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pjones46

986 posts in 2104 days


#3 posted 05-15-2015 06:52 PM

First off, PT should not be coated for atleast 6 months to a year. Clear coats unless they contain a UV blocking additive will do nothing and the graying will not stop.

I use a Clear California Paint Company product # 20030V on cedar clap boards and they darkened but have not turned grey.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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BurlyBob

3660 posts in 1727 days


#4 posted 05-15-2015 06:58 PM

I surmise your in Portland, right pdx? That first photo was before we stained the fence. After the stain was on it pretty well matched the PT post, even more so after the second coat. You said you liked the brown color of the PT, that’s why I offered up.

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pdxrealtor

104 posts in 686 days


#5 posted 05-15-2015 07:43 PM

PJ – good to know about the wait on PT. All the frames for both fence and gates are PT. I did give the PT posts a point so I should probably seal those, as well as the grooves I routed into the lattice frames.

I will just stain the cedar boards for now. I mention UV because I read the same as what you said. Unless there is UV protection they will gray.

WIll the stain you mention adequately seal the cut portions of my PT posts/frames? Or do you suggest another product?

Bob- yes – Portland OR. I only mentioned the liking of the PT wood for an explanation as to why I used to much of it. :)

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pjones46

986 posts in 2104 days


#6 posted 05-15-2015 10:53 PM

@ Bob
Really like that lock wedge gate construction.

@ pdxrealtor

I assume that it would work well as I have used it on bare fir and it does the job, But again you should wait if you are treating PT. The wood must be dry before it is stained/painted/treated, so if there is any doubt about the wood being dry enough, wait awhile longer to be absolutely sure. If you stain the wood before it is dry, bubbles or blisters will develop under the stain and it will trap moisture into the wood that can cause the wood to rot.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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BurlyBob

3660 posts in 1727 days


#7 posted 05-15-2015 11:30 PM

We just did the cedar and left the PT alone. That super deck is more of an tinted oil. I have only used twice on my fence for sun protection, it just soaks in and really doesn’t cover anything. It might not be the best for you over there with all the rain you get. I shake my head at folks around who spend all that time, money and work on a fence and don’t treat it. A couple of years later it’s turning gray, and than there are the guys who use zinc nails or dry screws. Makes one scratch his head.

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pdxrealtor

104 posts in 686 days


#8 posted 05-15-2015 11:35 PM

Ya- I shake my head also. I really want that new look and want to use the best product available.

I really like the tint of your cedar, but for this house I prefer to keep the clear look.

I used nails, galvanized ring shanks. I used those flat head lag bolts for my double gate. They seem to really stiffen things up.

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BurlyBob

3660 posts in 1727 days


#9 posted 05-16-2015 01:12 AM

I went with stainless steel screws to avoid the grey runs from the cedar acids eating away at metal. I’ve heard there is a ceramic screw on the market. My neighbor told me about them after I’d bought the stainless and put the fence up. I wonder if they would have been any cheaper?

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pjones46

986 posts in 2104 days


#10 posted 05-16-2015 01:41 AM

Bob,

I don’t think they are much cheaper if any at all. I have stuck with the SS screws and nails for outside work. With the cost of materials and labor invested, the few cents differance is really not worth cutting corners. Looked at you fence gate again, where did you get the long strap/pin hinges or did you make them?

-- Respectfully, Paul

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BurlyBob

3660 posts in 1727 days


#11 posted 05-16-2015 03:33 AM

I got those hinges on ebay. The company is Merx if memory serves me correctly, in fact I believe they came out of Portland, Oregon and I bargained with the guy to ship me 3 pair for the shipping price of one. Merx, I believe is out of Canada. I bought those three years ago. There’s been a lot of water under the bridge since then so I might be off on the price but I think is was somewhere around $75-90. I was looking for something on that gate like I’d seen in France, those were the closest I could find. It would have been better to have that the metal on the post side running longer on the vertical.

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pjones46

986 posts in 2104 days


#12 posted 05-16-2015 02:12 PM

Thanks, Bob.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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pdxrealtor

104 posts in 686 days


#13 posted 05-16-2015 06:07 PM

I bought the longest hinges I could buy at Home Depot. They’re not nearly as long as yours Bob, but still longer and more heavy duty and the plethora of other hinges available at HD. I was pleasantly surprised. One carriage bolt and three screws for each hinge.

I’m hoping in combination with the top brace (I really should have used bigger posts, but space and the fact I’m still learning got in the way) and the hinges I won’t have sagging problems.

PJ- what’s a comparable stain to that stuff? I can’t find it locally. Anything with adequate UV protection or??

I hate to call even a specialty store as lately they have not been the best source of accurate information.

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BurlyBob

3660 posts in 1727 days


#14 posted 05-16-2015 06:16 PM

That gate is down right gorgeous!!! I might have to try and copy that next year. I have to build a pair of 5’ gates for a drive thru opening.

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pdxrealtor

104 posts in 686 days


#15 posted 05-16-2015 06:20 PM

Thanks Bob- That makes me feel real good, since it’s the first gate I’ve ever built from scratch. That’s 7.5 feet tall.

Adding your bracing technique would be awesome.

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