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Forum topic by Mikeyf56 posted 1798 days ago 1157 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mikeyf56

171 posts in 1817 days


1798 days ago

Tell about your bandsaw. What you like, don’t like, what brand you own, what you use it for the most, etc., etc.

Thanks in advance…....

Mikey

-- Powered by Smith & Wilson~~~


11 replies so far

View BeachedBones's profile

BeachedBones

201 posts in 1998 days


#1 posted 1798 days ago

CRAFTSMAN®/MD Professional™ 14” Stationary Band Saw

Pros: 1) Most cost effective band saw I could find (In Canada) 2) Nice large work table 3) lots of user friendly features like, work lite, tracking window, tension “guage” 3) comes with a fence much better than anything stock I could find.

Cons: 1) Comes with lousy blades, 2) is a Craftsman, so I have doubts about durability

I’ve been using it mostly for curved project cuts, circle making, and light resawing

http://www.sears.ca/gp/product/B002CSG0VG/sr=1-0/qid=1250732239/ref=sr_1_0/179-9575117-7997918?ie=UTF8&searsBrand=core&mqnodeid=APS

-- You know.... I think that old wood needs to be furniture.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2245 days


#2 posted 1798 days ago

rikon 14'' deluxe

love it! it’s super quiet, super powerful, does it all. mostly use it for resawing, and curved cuts.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2173 days


#3 posted 1798 days ago

Laguna 16Hd with the driftmaster fence and resaw king blade. I’m very underwhelmed with this saw the smaller blades seem to break very easily and re-saw is OK. I would suggest saving your money (about $1600) and buy a Grizzly. for the money the finish is pour and the design of the driftmaster fence works but is crudely designed for something that cost what a inexpensive band saw cost.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View cpollock's profile

cpollock

34 posts in 2010 days


#4 posted 1798 days ago

I have an old discontinued Grizzly 17” saw. Its a 220V 2HP unit, and I love having that power. The blade is 113” long,which is a little unusual. My only complaints are that it only goes to 7” resaw, and the dust collection is a joke.
If I was buying a new saw, and I doubt that will be for a long time as this one seems to be very solid and works fine, and it was quite a hassle getting it into the basement and set up (these things are neither light nor small), I would definitely get a 12” cutting capacity. Quite often I’ve wanted to resaw an 8-9” board, and I’ve had to split the board, then glue it back together after the resaw.
Looking at the Grizzly products today, the dust collection looks better. Mine only has a 2.5” port on near the lower wheel. Most of the dust comes off right below the blade and spews all over the floor, so the dust port is not very effective on mine. I’d look for a saw that has a 4” port right below the table, so it can catch the majority of the dust. I strapped a port from my DC to the saw right near the lower bearings and it works pretty well, but it seems to me that a good design would have that built in.

I had a 1/2 HP Craftsman at one time, it was woefuly underpowered. I definitely like the power of a 220v system, and would urge you to make that one of your preferences if you are shopping for a saw.

View Blake's profile

Blake

3434 posts in 2470 days


#5 posted 1797 days ago

Check THIS out.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View raymcinnis's profile

raymcinnis

25 posts in 1805 days


#6 posted 1797 days ago

Build an Enlarged Table and Fence for your bandsaw:

http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/bandsaw_table_fence.htm

image shows for my Laguna 18 inch bandsaw, (1) an enlarged table, approx 48×48 inches, and (2) a fence that combines wood and extruded aluminum.

click on link for image Photo http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/images/bandsaw_fence_infeed_view.jpg

note the ruler on the infeed side and on each of the other sides. Useful for setting fence at regular increments for resawing veneer, or just resawing to width. Also note biesemeyer-like track mechanism for setting infeed side of fence.

This “track” I cobbled together from parts cannibalized from an elaborate jig, mostly extruded aluminum, for cutting plywood panels. I purchased this jig at a woodworking show, but found that when set up permanently, for the amount of use I was getting from, it ate up to much real estate in my shop.

The fence consists of (1) a wooden part, that stretches across the table from infeed side to outfeed side, and (2) an adjustable extruded aluminum bar, about 4 inches high. The extruded aluminum fence attaches to the wooden part of the fence, roughly 4? x 1 ½? by 4?, with ¼ ? 20 tpi threaded bolts. The heads of the bolts slide in a groove in the extruded aluminum. The bolts are tightened with the black knobs, seen on the right of the wooden part of the fence in Photo 1.

I put the fence on the blade’s “right” side

Notice that the fence is on the blade’s right side, like most table saws. My early experience (in 2001) with the blade to the left of the blade resulted in a cut finger, which led me to reconsider how the bandsaw is set up to operate. First, why are fences to the right of the blade? In truth, if evidence other than intuitive—i.e., experiential—exists, I am not aware of it. On table saws, “righties” prefer the fence to the right of the blade. If this is true, why not do the same on bandsaws?

-- Raymond McInnis Washington State ray@woodworkinghistory.com

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3340 posts in 2556 days


#7 posted 1797 days ago

You’ll laugh at this one:
1952 Magna (before ShopSmith) 11” on a power stand. Well adjusted, top quality blades, smooth, and has done all I’ve asked of it.
Sure would like to have a bigger saw, but can’t justify the expense.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View wdkits1's profile

wdkits1

211 posts in 1949 days


#8 posted 1797 days ago

I have a Delta 14” bandsaw that I bought new in 1992. I added the riser block and changed the motor from the stock 1/2hp to a 1hp. Added an 18” outfeed table,and refitted the pitiful dust port.I don’t have a table saw in my shop so the BS is my main dust maker. I have my blades made by a local company that cuts them to my specs for $14 each. I run a 105” x4tpi x 3/4 x.032. I still have the stock guides and bearings and have replaced the rubber wheels once. I don’t ever de-tension the blade and can comfortably resaw up to 12 inches without worry. I resaw mostly hard woods and exotics .
For me the most important thing is to have a sharp blade. The next thing is to make sure that the upper and lower thrust bearings are adjusted to just kiss the blade so that when pressure is applied they don’t let the blade flex back. Re-adjust the upper bearing when you change the cutting height.The upper and lower blade guides should be adjusted equally about the thickness of a folded dollar bill from the blade and should be set back just enough that the teeth don’t hit the guides. Most folks try to resaw by setting the fence perfectly parallel to the blade but you may find that by making a test cut, the fence needs to be adjusted slightly out of parallel to allow the blade to track straight. Also, when I install a new blade I round over the back edge of the blade with 220 grit sandpaper while the saw is running to get rid of any factory burrs that may be present. And to extend the life of the blade and to keep the bearing and guides running smooth, I keep a can of Pam cooking spray handy to squirt on the blade every once in a while.You will be surprised how much quieter and smoother the saw runs. You can laugh if you want but I’m not the one that is having problems resawing

-- Mike --www.midlothianwoodworks.com

View Walnut_Weasel's profile

Walnut_Weasel

360 posts in 1818 days


#9 posted 1797 days ago

I recently purchased a 14 Jet closed stand bandsaw. It is the only major wood working tool that I have purchased so far which means I use it for everything…and that flexibility is exactly why I decided to purchase it as my first tool. It may not be the best tool for most jobs but it can do the work required for most jobs. So far I love it!! I have cut up to 6” walnut (see comments about the blade below) with very little noise and the machine felt like it was not struggling at all. That being said there are just a couple of things that I was slightly disappointed with considering the $600 dollars I spent on it.

First the blade that was sent with the machine was garbage. It was loud, cut slow and burned the wood. I replaced this blade with a 1/4” Timber Wolf and now it cuts wonderful with zero drift. I highly recommend the blade. I have also read on several posts here that a Slicer blade is just as good as the Timber Wolf and perhaps even better for resawing.

Second the throat plate that was sent with the machine was domed and did not sit flush to the table causing my cuts to be unparallel. I replaced this with a plastic zero clearance plate and things work great now. ($10 for a pack of 3)

And last but one of the most aggravating things about this machine is that when setting it up you are required to loosen 4 bolts on the motor to install and tension the drive belt. I did not have someone around to help with this process. In order to push down with ample pressure to tension the belt the back side of the motor dropped down, causing the motor pulley to become out of alignment with the blade pulley. The machine still works fine and operates smoothly, but this misalignment is not “perfect” and irritates me. If they had only had a tighter tolerance on the motor bracket this would have been a piece of cake to do, even alone.

I have recently got a cheap ($0.70) 1” paint brush to use to clean the dust off of all the hard to reach areas on the machine. I plan to soon add wheel brushes to keep the dust pack under the blade to a minimum. I would like to get my hands on a few other types of bandsaws to compare to mine – though I find it hard to believe I would find something that I like more.

-- James - www.walnutweasel.wordpress.com

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2058 days


#10 posted 1797 days ago

I recently restored an am using a 68 Delta/Rockwell. It was completely torn down and rebuilt from the ground up. Now mind you this is the first bandsaw I have ever owned. I upgraded to Carter guides, tension spring , 1hp motor, 1/2hp was original ,and a new Timberwolf 1/2” 3tpi blade. So far, it has cut everything I have thrown its way. So far it has been a dream and I would recommend that if anyone is looking for a saw, find an old one, restore it and use it. They dont make them like this anymore.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View Durnik150's profile

Durnik150

647 posts in 1918 days


#11 posted 1797 days ago

Ridgid 14”. This is my first bandsaw and for someone just getting into projects that needed it this is a great entry level saw. I may add a riser block to it or may just keep it and upgrade to a saw with a bigger capacity.

Pros:
The adjustment knobs are all thumbscrew type so you don’t need an allen wrench. All of the adjustments for this saw are super easy to make.

Simplicity is something some may say is a con but as a newbie I really liked the layout of this unit. Everything is straighforward and simple.

Ridgid has a lifetime warranty on all their newer power tools. If the motor on this baby goes down 5 years from now, it’s covered.

Cons:
Another HP or so would be nice. This unit will bog down when really digging into a thick piece.

Dust collection on this saw is one 2 1/2” access below the cutting surface. I’ve seen many folks rig a second one on top of the table (what I do) or cut a hole in the case to add another 2 1/2” site.

There is a fair amount of wobble as this unit winds down. It hasn’t yet affected my cuts but I wish I could eliminate it.

That’s it for me!

-- Behind the Bark is a lot of Heartwood----Charles, Centennial, CO

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