Zero Clearance Inserts Specifically for Powermatic Table Saws

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Forum topic by Lenny posted 08-19-2009 12:26 AM 4136 views 1 time favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1473 posts in 2950 days

08-19-2009 12:26 AM

While anyone is welcome to offer a suggestion, this question is for PM2000 or other PM table saw owners. I am making my first zero clearance inserts for blades and my dado blade set. Posts I have read on this topic suggest that a nail, screw or something be installed at the rear of the insert to prevent it from being flipped or thrown foward. I agree that this is a wise step to take in making the inserts. However, when I tried inserting a small cut off brad at the back of an insert, even as low as possible, I could not then get the insert into the opening. There is a lip about 1/4” deep at the rear of the opening and you cannot tilt the insert and then swing it into place. It has to go in level. If you own a PM 2000 (and perhaps other models) you know what I mean. For others, I am including a picture. What have you PM owners done to rectifiy this situation. My thought is to countersink a small screw in the insert, right at the back. At the end of he screw I could epoxy a small piece of metal that when turned just so, sticks out enough that it will be under that lip and catch it in the event the insert lifts. I would have to use a marker on the screw to let me know that the metal is in the right position. Any thoughts?

-- On the eighth day God was back in His woodworking shop! Lenny, East Providence, RI

4 replies so far

View lew's profile


11266 posts in 3178 days

#1 posted 08-19-2009 03:11 AM

How about a “roofing” nail. Drill the correct size hole in the bottom of the insert very near the back end. Insert the nail and adjust the length so it fits under the top of the table. Cut the nail to the correct length and epoxy/CA glue in place. The nail head should be large enough to “catch” the underside of the table and prevent the insert from flipping out. Better yet, use a roofing “cap nail”- the kind used to hold down builders roofing felt. The plastic cap is quite large and securely fastened.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1283 posts in 3160 days

#2 posted 08-19-2009 03:40 AM

Here is a link that shows the type of PM66 insert I have used for many years.

I just happened to find this link. I have no affiliation to it. However, it shows the insert and how it is used. even though I do not have the PM66 any more I will never sell the insert. I plan on getting another Pm66 sometime and want to use this insert. I am also including the link to the company. It looks like they are moving or going out of business. That would be a shame.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View jerryz's profile


164 posts in 2701 days

#3 posted 08-19-2009 06:38 AM

John the zero clearance insert that you linked is the one demostrated by Norm Abrams in his Table Saw 101.
When I got my new 22124 TS I tried to purchase one but looks like the company that made them is not taking orders any more and is for sale…
I really like this insert because changing the replaceable part is soo easy.

The one I ended up getting is attached with 6 hex head screws. Not very fast.

Oh well

View Lenny's profile


1473 posts in 2950 days

#4 posted 08-19-2009 11:39 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. I will take it all under advisement and come up with something. It’s funny, just the other day I was watching an episode of New Yankee Workshop and I took note of that insert and wondered, how the heck do you get the wood in between the metal? How is it held in place? I will have to keep checking to see if the product becomes available again. As it turns out, at least in my area (New England), the two-part episode of table saw 101 will be run starting this Saturday. I tape the show every weekend so I will be sure to capture it. Thanks again everyone.

-- On the eighth day God was back in His woodworking shop! Lenny, East Providence, RI

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