Need advice with workbench design

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Forum topic by 4n494rc14 posted 05-12-2015 06:50 PM 576 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 534 days

05-12-2015 06:50 PM

Topic tags/keywords: workbench knock down leg joint question traditional

im new in the forum. im not a proffessional carpenter, i studied building engineering for some years (didnt finish it) and still keep a feeling for structures. I love wood and working with hand powered tools. I live in Sweden and use the metric sistem ;p. And the way i use english is a bit messy.

First of all i would like to say i am very impressed with the projects you guys are working on.

I have been trying to come up with the easyest way to build a fully knock down workbench. I have made some kind of model on sketchup and i was hoping to get some advices about it.
My requirements for the workbench are:
- built in the easyest way possible
- make it out of scratch pieces i can get for free, mainly pine
- if possible: no glue, no nails, no screws
- be able to put it appart down to single planks, for transport reasons (fitting in my car for example)
- no vises, only simple wedges
- i will use it mainly for using hand tools: sawing stuff, cutting mortises and tennons, carving bowls and spoons…

I still didnt upload the sketchup file anywhere, but i made a simple video out of it. It is just a design, a concept; i didnt work with measurements or dimensions of any kind, just with proportions.

I wonder about:
- would the leg joints hold the pressure of the wedges that hold the piece i would be working on?
- if not, where would it break and how could i solve it.
- any ideas about how i could add a removable draw horse “mechanism”


-- please excuse my bad grammar

1 reply so far

View mahdee's profile


3465 posts in 1191 days

#1 posted 05-12-2015 10:47 PM

I think you should turn the slats around and have them go from one end of the table to the other end (lengthwise).
Also, let’s say if you are using 2.5X5 CM bards, place spacers of the same boards (about 1/2 meter long) at each end in between them. Then use similar methods of securing the together. The legs would be notched to one of the 1/2 meter spacer and two adjacent full boards. This way, you have plenty of room to secure objects to the tabletop using the empty “rows” as well as utilizing your dowel method. Hope it makes sense. Good luck.


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