Sealing wood and wood ID?

Maple is one of the most challenging woods to dry. I can not say anything specific off the top of my head, and I will say what I can. I know that Maple you cannot dry too fast, or it cracks, not too slow, or it developes fungus, especially the blue one, quickly.

There is a small book or rather a book with a collection of articles from finewoodworking that describe the methods to cut and dry your own wood. I would start there, I have a copy too, but I am in the process of moving and I can not look it up right now as its packed in box already.

You need to at least seal the ends or end grain with some latex paint, roofing tar, parafinwax, white glue (really thicky), while its still wet to prevent the ends from cracking and do it right now! do not wait, it does not take long for moisture to get out of the endgrain and start shrinking when the rest is still wet and still swolen… keep it out of the direct sun, and put sticks between the slabs to allow air to circulate through. and get a book on drying wood, specifically maple if you can find one.

I hope it works out for you. Good luck

-- Nicholas, Journeyman Cabinetmaker, Partenkirchen, Germany

Good luck on getting that Ambrosia Maple. I love that wood. I made my kitchen cabinets out of it in NJ. and I’ve still got about 300 bd ft left. Some nice wood.

get something on it on the ends. I wouldn’t worry about the sides or the flat surface But stack it with stickers between all of the layers so that air can get to the wood. Try to put a cover over it to keep it from getting wet on the top. Like a tarp of so, but don’t put the tarp down the sides leave them open.

Stack weight on top to try and keep all of the boards flat. Like a cement block or two stack them on a 2X4 layer that you put on top.

The woodbutcher has a post and it has a nice stack of wood. He doesn’t have any weight on top but you can see how it’s done.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

Seal the ends as the others have said plus sticker the wood so air can flow evenly on all sides plus some heavy weights on top of the stack to help prevent cupping.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

“OK so at work the other day i found a wormy maple crotch about 3-4’ long and 15” or 16” diameter on the butt end. I Have asked a local sawyer to cut it into 2” slabs to possibly make benches or tables out of.The big questions i have are, what do i seal them with while they dry? What surfaces do i seal, end grain? , long grain? or the whole darn thing? and next is wormy maple the same as ambrosia maple? Sorry no pics of the rough would but i should be able to post some pics of the slabs this weekend if there is no metal in it.”

Seal the end grain and about 5-6” from the ends. seal any knots, around the pith, and the swirly grain in the center of the crotch.

Wormy and amborsia are different critters and effects. The ambrosia beetle will make a large stain around the tunnels that can go from 1/2” or more from the tunnel wall as seen here: http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/maple,%20ambrosia.htm

There are a plethora of online resources for drying lumber. I can provide more links than you care to read on it.

-- Wonderful new things are coming! - God