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Grizzly table saw blade Parallelism

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Forum topic by abehil posted 05-10-2015 05:55 PM 1091 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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abehil

104 posts in 801 days


05-10-2015 05:55 PM

I picked up an old grizzly TSC-10L from craigslist. It was used by a nice fellow who didn’t abuse it but it has had better days.
I’m finding the blade is not parallel with the miter slot.

So I look in the manual he gave me ( looks like it was copied in the 90’s when copiers were not that great ) and nothing in it about adjusting the blade. Then I got a PDF manual for a Grizzly G1022 and it does have a section on blade adjustment.
But to my astonishment the procedure is to completely disassemble the saw! This must be why the guy had removed three bolts holding the table to the cabinet and skewed the table top over.

My question is if this is fact? Do I actually have to completely strip down the saw just to do this?


8 replies so far

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Bill White

4450 posts in 3423 days


#1 posted 05-10-2015 06:02 PM

Have you called Grizz TECH SERVICE not customer service? That’s where I would start.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Fred Hargis

3934 posts in 1955 days


#2 posted 05-10-2015 06:29 PM

Most contractor saws are adjusted in the same manner as the G1022, but normally you can reach the bolts through the back of the cabinet. If you loosen three of them, and move the trunnions in the right direction (the one tight one keeps things from getting too catywampus, you can usually get it zero’d in. Having it upside down as Grizzly suggested seems to make the job just about impossible. But, there may be a reason for doing it that way…I’ve not seen that model first hand. But to answer your question: generally you can do this from the back, you might have to remove the motor but that’s not that big a deal. I’d also second Bill’s suggestion to call Griz, their CS is pretty good though it depends (sometimes) on who you wind up talking too.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 948 days


#3 posted 05-10-2015 06:55 PM

Whatever it takes to get to the trunnion bolts. I’d suggest doing it with the top on and the motor mounted if possible.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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abehil

104 posts in 801 days


#4 posted 05-11-2015 12:30 AM

Fred Hargis,

Thank you. Very helpful. I was hoping for that.

Ok, now I was able to reach them through the back but I’ve now run into another issue. After spending about an hour trying to get it aligned I have finally discovered that one of the bolts that secure the rear of the trunion where it bolts into the table won’t move over far enough to get the blade aligned – it’s between 1/32 and 1/16 off.

Looking carefully at the holes in the bracket (not the holes in the top that are taped for the bolts) I can see that one is drilled about 1/16” closer to the edge of the bracket that the other. If it were in the same position on the bracket as the one on the other side I’d be able to move the rear of the trunion over 1/16” and it would line up the blade.

So, I wonder if I could use something to bore out that hole a little or hog out that side of the hole a little, hopefully without taking the whole darn saw apart?

Just more info:
And the front is as far over as it can go and what’s restricting it is the tilt handle bracket is up against the outside and that’s as far as it can go.
I guess it’s also possible that the tilt handle was installed too closely – I’m not sure. But the tilt handle bracket is broken and maybe someone before me was trying too hard to move the front over by banging on the post. Only speculation but that’s all I have to go on.

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abehil

104 posts in 801 days


#5 posted 05-11-2015 03:59 AM

Sorry for the double post. Forget about what I wrote because it’s stranger then that.

In order to get the blade straight I actually have to remove both rear bolts and move that rear bracket over about 1/2”. The front can’t be moved any further because of the tilt assembly attaching to the cabinet side.
I’m going to call Grizzly tech support and ask about this.

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Fred Hargis

3934 posts in 1955 days


#6 posted 05-11-2015 10:47 AM

When we had some machine holes slightly misaligned, it was common (but not recommended) to drill the hole a little larger, then put a heavy washer under the bolt. In your case that might depend on whether you can get to the hole with a drill. Talking to Griz at this point might be useful, they may have dealt with this before.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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abehil

104 posts in 801 days


#7 posted 05-11-2015 09:58 PM

Here is a better picture of the rear trunion bracket holes and where it lines up with the tapped bolt holes.

I think I can clamp the trunion up and then take the bracket off the saw. I think the holes should be cut more into slots instead of just making them bigger. And the one on the right looks like it will need to be cut into a U or at least very close to the end of the bracket.
I’d be glad to get an opinion on whether that might hold up after being bolted back up? Maybe I’d need to brace up that side just a little to take some stress off that spot. basically, the motor hangs off that bracket.

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ForestGrl

445 posts in 548 days


#8 posted 10-04-2015 09:03 PM

For future readers, see this thread.

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

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