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Forum topic by Troy Cleckler posted 05-10-2015 12:32 AM 1280 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Troy Cleckler

384 posts in 833 days


05-10-2015 12:32 AM

I’ve got the Gramercy blades and handle hardware kit ordered but it’s been back ordered for a couple of weeks but last word is it should ship next week. I decided to go ahead and start working on the saw today. I’ve had a board put back for a while, waiting to find a project for it. It’s curly white oak. Probably not the lightest wood for this saw but it’s gonna look good, I think.
Got it cut out, edged sanded and the mortise and tenons fitted, not perfect, may work on them a little more before I start shaping it.
Still trying to decide what to make the handles and toggle out of. Will post more pics as I work on it some more.

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....


21 replies so far

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Ghidrah

667 posts in 684 days


#1 posted 05-10-2015 01:55 AM

Reminds me of the one Roy Underhill made a bunch of yrs back. The grain on that puppy is beautiful.

-- I meant to do that!

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Troy Cleckler

384 posts in 833 days


#2 posted 05-11-2015 02:38 AM

Done some shaping today and decided to add the toggle and lever from the “Shapley Saw”. Liked that one better than the Gramercy one.

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....

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upchuck

540 posts in 1127 days


#3 posted 05-11-2015 03:56 AM

Troy-
I hope that the work you’ve done will fit the parts when they arrive. I look forward to seeing this project completed and getting a report on how the saw cuts.
chuck

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bandit571

14556 posts in 2145 days


#4 posted 05-11-2015 04:07 AM

There is a series of videos from China, by GE Hong. A two or three parter shows how he makes his from scratch.

Even how he sharpens the blade. Every third tooth has no set. Blade comes as a roll, with the teeth formed. You drill each end, after cutting the blade to length. Rounding the ends a bit. His “toggle” is more in the shape of all thread, with one end bent into a slot in one arm. The other has a wing nut and washer. Same with the blade’s mounting. he MIGHT have a wee bit of practice doing these saws. Videos show them hanging on a few racks, LOTS of saws.

Although these videos are in Mandarin Chinese, you get a very good idea of how he makes these saws. AND, how he uses them.

I think I might look the guy up later, and try to make a saw like his…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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BurlyBob

3661 posts in 1727 days


#5 posted 05-11-2015 05:30 AM

I what to see the final product too. It’s looking really nice. Love that wood grain!

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Troy Cleckler

384 posts in 833 days


#6 posted 05-11-2015 10:46 AM



Troy-
I hope that the work you ve done will fit the parts when they arrive. I look forward to seeing this project completed and getting a report on how the saw cuts.
chuck

- upchuck


Chuck, I’m probably taking a chance with it all working out without having the hardware but the blades and handle hardware is the Gramercy kit and the pattern used is for the Gramercy saw using the kit so that part shouldn’t be no problem since those diamentions didn’t change. The only thing I modified is the toggle now has a tenon.

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....

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Troy Cleckler

384 posts in 833 days


#7 posted 05-11-2015 10:53 AM

How tight should the tenons be? They were snug enough that they stayed together at first but now it won’t stay together by friction fit and they have a little movement, very little, when you try to rock them back and forth. I’m worried about there being a fix for it if it’s a problem. I hope that it’s not an issue.

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....

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Tim

3112 posts in 1423 days


#8 posted 05-11-2015 12:42 PM

Troy, from watching Roy and others make these, my understanding is the tenons are supposed to have a bit of give so that joint can move a little bit as you adjust the tension. Should only move in one plane though, not twisting or the other way.

How strong is that curly white oak? It sure looks nice. From what I understand, the more straight grained the wood the thinner you can make it and keep the strength, making for a lighter saw.

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Troy Cleckler

384 posts in 833 days


#9 posted 05-11-2015 01:21 PM



Troy, from watching Roy and others make these, my understanding is the tenons are supposed to have a bit of give so that joint can move a little bit as you adjust the tension. Should only move in one plane though, not twisting or the other way.

How strong is that curly white oak? It sure looks nice. From what I understand, the more straight grained the wood the thinner you can make it and keep the strength, making for a lighter saw.

- Tim


Tim, even though the wood is curley I placed the pattern in such a way that the grain is running straight through the length of the arms.
Because of not being sure of the strength, I decided not to take it too thin. Doesn’t seem heavy but will have to check the balance once it’s all together. The White Oak is what I had on hand so I thought I’d give it a shot. And as far at the loosness of the tenons, I’ll have to wait and see if anything is affected, I’m hoping that it’s not.

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....

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upchuck

540 posts in 1127 days


#10 posted 05-11-2015 01:28 PM

Troy-


Troy, from watching Roy and others make these, my understanding is the tenons are supposed to have a bit of give so that joint can move a little bit as you adjust the tension. Should only move in one plane though, not twisting or the other way.
- Tim

My understanding duplicates what Tim said above.
chuck

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Hammerthumb

2532 posts in 1437 days


#11 posted 05-11-2015 09:55 PM

Troy – the tenons on the one I made were a little snug and had to adjust them a little. I put wax on the tenon and got them to move freely up and down, but with no twist. As long as they pivot on the radius part of the joint, and do not have much side to side movement, they will be fine once the saw is tensioned. Be careful that you don’t over-tension, as it does not take much to get the blade tight.

Nice work!

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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Troy Cleckler

384 posts in 833 days


#12 posted 05-11-2015 10:06 PM

I checked it this afternoon and it does have some side to side, twist, in it. Can it be salvaged maybe by glueing a thin piece in the mortise or something?

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....

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Troy Cleckler

384 posts in 833 days


#13 posted 05-27-2015 04:59 PM

Got my “tools for working wood” blades and handle pins in today. May be able to finish up the saw this week.

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....

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Hammerthumb

2532 posts in 1437 days


#14 posted 05-27-2015 08:05 PM



I checked it this afternoon and it does have some side to side, twist, in it. Can it be salvaged maybe by glueing a thin piece in the mortise or something?

- Troy Cleckler

Troy – sorry I missed that last question. I’m not sure what the effect of looseness in the tenon would be. I would give it a try first before trying to tighten the joint. It might be just fine.

Post your findings when you have it complete. Good luck!

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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JayT

4773 posts in 1673 days


#15 posted 05-27-2015 08:18 PM

Troy, when I built bow style coping saws for last year’s saw swap, the joints were a little loose, probably have a little twist to them, as well. Under tension and in use, however, I don’t have any problems. My best guess is that because the tenon shoulders are square, they take the tension and keep everything lined up.

I don’t know if Red is having any issues with the one that was sent to him or not. (I don’t know if he actually uses it, for that matter)

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

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