Pine Problems

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Forum topic by WhiskeyCreek posted 05-09-2015 06:09 PM 862 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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13 posts in 575 days

05-09-2015 06:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I was commissioned to build a pine desk for a client recently. I have used pine before but for small projects, nothing like a writing desk. When I began to look for #2 pine I discovered all the wood dealers pretty much just carried 1×4, 5,6…..etc. which like all woods was actually about 5/8 if that. When I ended up finding 2 x pine it was 4 dollars a board ft. With not enough material on the 1 x pine to square it up and use it, I sandwiched 2 pieces of 1 x pine together. I am pretty sure that was not the best option but it is what I did. Other than a little more movement in the wood than usually it seems to be working. My question is “What would of been my best option?” and “Am I being ignorant and just waiting for it to fall apart.?” So far The pieces after being glued and clamped, were squared and than biscuited together to make the panels I needed and seem totally fine. Any extra advice would be great as well.

-- Whiskey Creek Woodmill & Co.

9 replies so far

View jumbojack's profile


1667 posts in 2046 days

#1 posted 05-09-2015 08:38 PM

We’re you totally against using ‘pine’ plywood?

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View WhiskeyCreek's profile


13 posts in 575 days

#2 posted 05-09-2015 08:55 PM

I am not against pine ply. I just finished a bunch of cabinets using pine ply, but the client wanted a classic look with knotty pine to match a dresser. The top and drawers are routed with a ogee bit and a lot of the skeleton is plywood. I also just enjoy using non sheet goods when I can.

-- Whiskey Creek Woodmill & Co.

View BroncoBrian's profile


435 posts in 1381 days

#3 posted 05-09-2015 08:59 PM

Where are you located? We have so much beetle kill pine in Colorado, you can make money removing it. It has a blue streak in it and it is beautiful. Very cheap.

-- Bigfoot tries to take pictures of me

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1854 posts in 1557 days

#4 posted 05-09-2015 09:50 PM

If have the equipment to process rough lumber might contact folks like this place found on Tried but did not show anything for your zip code. Do not live on the west coast but so have no idea of distances but sure there might be some smaller lumber companies that can also help you.


-- Bill

View Ghidrah's profile


667 posts in 644 days

#5 posted 05-10-2015 02:04 AM

I like pine but only use sugar or C&B pine for projects. Finish or select#1, 2 or 3 isn’t worth the money and aggravation. Listen to anyone suggesting you go with plywood, I’d go with Oak or Birch, both are close to the pine look, a little stain, oil and poly and you can match them up real close. The ply is wicked stable, as for the pine you need to invest in a moisture meter, get it down to around 12 to 15% MC before final dims, keep it at that MC until you’re done with the finish coat.

-- I meant to do that!

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13094 posts in 1279 days

#6 posted 05-10-2015 02:20 AM

Did you try a hardwood supplier or only box stores. The hardwood supplier I go to also carries lots of nice sugar pine. I think that’s what I would use if commissioned for such a piece. $4 isn’t too bad for such a project as long as you know the price before you give an estimate. Your solution will probably be ok though as long as the moisture content wasn’t too high and or you allowed for movement.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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3972 posts in 1773 days

#7 posted 05-10-2015 02:53 AM

If you go to a hardwood dealer you can get pine in thicker sizes and a much clearer grade. Of course it will cost more but will be much less work and the finished product will look much better too.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View HornedWoodwork's profile


222 posts in 637 days

#8 posted 05-11-2015 02:14 PM

This might be a needle in a haystack answer but I find that the best source for good pine, or hardwood for that matter is a local sawyer. The trick is finding them of course but there are ways. First I’d hunt them down through any woodworking guilds in your area, but don’t limit yourself to just your town or county. A woodworking guild a couple counties away will know if their is a sawyer in your general vicinity. If there are no guilds by you (start one) then try contacting contractors that do custom interiors, and maybe even smaller lumberyards. If you STILL can’t find one, take out an ad in the local classifieds or post a BOLO on facebook. Eventually someone, even if it is a firewood guy, will raise a hand and you’ll have a contact. These guys have ways of getting their hands on all of the domestics in your area and can cut it to your exact specs, often for far less than you would pay in the marketplace. There are several considerations however, depending on how serious the operation is, you’ll probably get green wood. If you are lucky and they have a kiln, that’ll still take months, but there is nothing better than a group of perfectly matched and sized raw materials for those special projects.

-- Talent, brilliance, and humility are my virtues.

View jdh122's profile


878 posts in 2240 days

#9 posted 05-11-2015 02:47 PM

I’m not sure what kind of pine you’re using. Since you’re on the other side of the continent from me, it’s probably not eastern white pine, the wood I have experience with (and I doubt you’d be able to get some of that from local sawyers in California).
I just wanted to address your question about gluing wood together to make it thicker. This will not cause any problems, people do it all the time. It shouldn’t move any more than 2x wood and it will be just as strong (assuming you did a decent job with the glue-up). The main reason to use thicker stock rather than gluing up is for looks.

-- Jeremy, in the Acadian forests

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