sharpening

I know you have the second and third videos in the David Charlesworth video. The first shows how to sharpen plane blades. Hand Tool Techniques Part 1: Plane Sharpening by David Charlesworth – I own this video. It is probably my favorite.

One of the drawbacks of waterstones is that you have to flatten them frequently. Basically you put additional pressure on different postions to camber the blade. Lee-Valley has an camber accessory for their sharpening Jig that helps with this.

Here is a forum topic on sharpening. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/show/331

Here is a blog entry I did listing sharpening resources http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/WayneC/blog/810

From the blog entry here is a link to a Fine Woodworking Article on Sharpening http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00003.asp

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Also, I have a WorkSharp Sharpening system. It works well for plane blades 2” and under and also helps flatten the back of larger plane blades. The following link is to a review of the sharpener in my blog.

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/WayneC/blog/1113

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Wayne, give us a review of the ” Worksharp Tool sharpening system”. I would like a better sharpening system to hone my lathe tools. I am anxious to know how it works for the “regular person”, not the advertisement hype from a company trying to sell its product.

-- WeeWilly

In a nutshell. The worksharp works well for blades up to 2”. You have to hone blades larger than 2” free hand using a guide on top of the system. It works well for flatening the back of plane irons. Flattening the back of narrow blades is difficult. Your probably better off using waterstones.

If you get it you will want to get extra glass plates and the course abrasive package. Otherwise regrinding a blade will take for ever and you will wear out the paper sooner than you should.

There is a full review in the blog link above.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I also have David Charlesworth’s DVDs and I really like his technique. It’s the only technique where I was able to get excellent results on the first try. It’s repeatable and easy if you follow his steps.

-- http://theinquisitivewoodworker.com/

I built a workstation for my WorkSharp and will be posting it soon. I very carefully round the corners on my plane irons on the WorkSharp. I don’t try for a real camber. I try to do it like Garrett Hack described in his book The Handplane Book. Heavy emphasis on the try.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Thanks for the replies all. Looks like, as usual, I have much more to read and try.

Here is a blog I’ve set up for sharpening my chisels and plane irons. I use the Pinacle system to get them to the correct angle and do the final honing with MDF and polishing compound.

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Karson/blog/320

Yesterday I used a piece of granite floor tile (the back) and put polishing compound on it and did a honing at my work bench as i was doing some mortise work. The chisel was the sharpest that I’ve ever had it. Using a polish stick. The finest green chromium oxide and hand honing them on the granite.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

LaLa
Before I got the WorkSharp, I sharpened on my old stamping block. it is 3 inch thick red granite aobut 20 inches long. I used PC stick on paper 110 and 320 with a little Veritas jig. I then have a felt wheel that I use the green polish compound on and then go to my strop board with jewlers rouge. It would work great if I could use the 24×24 surface plate in the saddle shop but any kind of steel dust is death around leather. On wet leather it leaves black spots and ruins the looks of the piece. No sharpening in the leather shop.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

Thanks, Tom!
I wil keep my marbles separate. I use one for a flat surface when sharpenning my plane blades and chisels. Good thingh I got two. One for leather and the other for sharpening.

LaLa, I use diamond hones, after grinder and then multiple grits of sandpaper on marble. To get the curved profile I use a jig to setthe bevel and rotate it a little on every 2 or 3 strokes to get the bevel on the edges. A little (LOT) unscientific, but I try.

God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards

Thanks everyone for the responses. Oh, and I just reread the original post, forgive me, I am not trying to sharpen hand plane blands, but blades. And to think I was a spelling B winner in school. ha Fortunately all of you made no issue of that and rolled with it.