Not sure why I haven't considered this

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Forum topic by Jofa posted 05-06-2015 03:03 PM 1282 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Jofa's profile


272 posts in 2036 days

05-06-2015 03:03 PM

Sometimes I scare myself…

So I do a lot of projects with solid stock because the edges show and I don’t want to have plywood exposed. However, I’m thinking it probably isn’t too hard to just use plywood and make strips for the edge pieces. Plus I could mess around with different species for contrast and what not.

Any of you folks have success edge gluing to plywood?

-- Thank you Lord for the passion and ability to make things from your creation.

14 replies so far

View Earlextech's profile


1162 posts in 2888 days

#1 posted 05-06-2015 03:10 PM

Paper thin to 3/4” edge banding, wood glue, masking tape for clamping. Works great! Not sure why you haven’t!?

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View TheGreatJon's profile


339 posts in 1431 days

#2 posted 05-06-2015 03:25 PM

I hate when I have great ideas, then realize that it has already been done. Like when my 5yr old self discovered that you could brush your teeth on the inside!

I congratulate you for dreaming up edge banding. If only you were a hundred years quicker. ;-) But seriously, well played. If I had never read about it, I probably never would have thought of it.

-- This is not the signature line you are looking for.

View hotbyte's profile


991 posts in 3173 days

#3 posted 05-06-2015 03:26 PM

In addition to methods Earlex mentioned, you can get iron on banding to cover edges. Easier to do before assembly because it is wider than plywood edge so you can trim it flush.

Never used them, but there are special router bit sets to make a grove in edge of plywood and matching shape on edge band. I guess they give more glue surface and the shape provides some alignment/stabilizing while glue sets up.

View Troy Cleckler 's profile

Troy Cleckler

385 posts in 1569 days

#4 posted 05-06-2015 03:33 PM

I’ve never had issues with using thin, 1/4” bandings on plywood. I match the materials though, mostly red oak and even though you can still see it, it blends in well enough and stills looks nice. I use glue and pin it on with a couple of brads to hold it until the glue dries.

-- Troy. - Measure twice, cut once and fill the gaps....

View Jofa's profile


272 posts in 2036 days

#5 posted 05-06-2015 03:37 PM

I would imagine a pin nailer could be used if needed, although I would choose to just use tape as Earlex stated.

I’m thinking there could be some cool effect by maybe laminating mahogany, pine, mahogany and then doing a roundover.

The problem is, I have other projects to finish but I want to try this now. :)

-- Thank you Lord for the passion and ability to make things from your creation.

View rwe2156's profile


3163 posts in 1679 days

#6 posted 05-06-2015 03:38 PM

Oh sure and there’s lots of way to do it.

Personally, I’ve used a lot of hot iron glue on edgebanding and I think it works well you can usually match the wood type pretty close.

I think the v-groove router method is pretty slick because the edges meet in one point and you can plane it down to match perfectly. Never done it, though.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View helluvawreck's profile


32087 posts in 3064 days

#7 posted 05-06-2015 04:05 PM

I haven’t experienced any problems by putting ripped hardwood banding on the edges of plywood. I don’t like thin wood edge banding because it’s not as durable nor does it look as good as solid wood.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View Picklehead's profile


1050 posts in 2127 days

#8 posted 05-06-2015 05:00 PM

I invented using solid wood stock with plywood edging!

-- Quote from ebay tool listing: " Has nicks and dings wear and tear dust and dirt rust and pitting but in good working condition"

View BurlyBob's profile


5974 posts in 2463 days

#9 posted 05-06-2015 05:03 PM

Certainly have, even used a couple of different woods, walnut and oak, Maple and walnut, also purpleheart and maple.

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2567 days

#10 posted 05-06-2015 05:06 PM

I’ve done the iron-on veneer as well as the solid wood edging. I prefer solid wood edging for things like shelf edges, because it’s easier to match the edge wood to a face frame (when applicable), and it adds some rigidity to the shelf. Other times, if I don’t need that, I’ll use iron on. If I have spots that I can’t get my iron into, I will use solid wood.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View cabmaker's profile


1740 posts in 3007 days

#11 posted 05-06-2015 10:40 PM

check out grizzly items # c2087 and # c2313

That is if you have a shaper

very effective….with power feeder it is almost as quick as iron on banding, NOTE, almost as quick !

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

347 posts in 2660 days

#12 posted 05-06-2015 11:20 PM

I like to use pretty thick hardwood edge on plywood and then apply the veneer… Give you a lot of real estate to shape that final panel, and flexibility fitting it as a door for example.

I mill my hardwood edging over thickness of the plywood, glue it then rout it flush with the ply substrate. Lay some veneer and press… Easy as cake!

View DocSavage45's profile


8718 posts in 3040 days

#13 posted 05-07-2015 03:45 AM


Norm Abrams did it MANY years ago on cabinet grade plywood. Only problem is the thin veneer layer of the finish surface. Otherwise it is more stable. Voids in the plywood can be troublesome if you are thinking of lesser grades of plywood?

You might have to be creative if you are bringing two edges together as well as precise.

Good luck.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View TheFridge's profile


10705 posts in 1684 days

#14 posted 05-07-2015 03:57 AM

I have iron on for paint grade work and I rip strips and biscuit them in for others. Or just glue.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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