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Not sure why I haven't considered this

2K views 14 replies 14 participants last post by  TheFridge 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Sometimes I scare myself…

So I do a lot of projects with solid stock because the edges show and I don't want to have plywood exposed. However, I'm thinking it probably isn't too hard to just use plywood and make strips for the edge pieces. Plus I could mess around with different species for contrast and what not.

Any of you folks have success edge gluing to plywood?
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
I hate when I have great ideas, then realize that it has already been done. Like when my 5yr old self discovered that you could brush your teeth on the inside!

I congratulate you for dreaming up edge banding. If only you were a hundred years quicker. ;-) But seriously, well played. If I had never read about it, I probably never would have thought of it.
 
#4 ·
In addition to methods Earlex mentioned, you can get iron on banding to cover edges. Easier to do before assembly because it is wider than plywood edge so you can trim it flush.

Never used them, but there are special router bit sets to make a grove in edge of plywood and matching shape on edge band. I guess they give more glue surface and the shape provides some alignment/stabilizing while glue sets up.
 
#5 ·
I've never had issues with using thin, 1/4" bandings on plywood. I match the materials though, mostly red oak and even though you can still see it, it blends in well enough and stills looks nice. I use glue and pin it on with a couple of brads to hold it until the glue dries.
 
#6 ·
I would imagine a pin nailer could be used if needed, although I would choose to just use tape as Earlex stated.

I'm thinking there could be some cool effect by maybe laminating mahogany, pine, mahogany and then doing a roundover.

The problem is, I have other projects to finish but I want to try this now. :)
 
#7 ·
Oh sure and there's lots of way to do it.

Personally, I've used a lot of hot iron glue on edgebanding and I think it works well you can usually match the wood type pretty close.

I think the v-groove router method is pretty slick because the edges meet in one point and you can plane it down to match perfectly. Never done it, though.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've done the iron-on veneer as well as the solid wood edging. I prefer solid wood edging for things like shelf edges, because it's easier to match the edge wood to a face frame (when applicable), and it adds some rigidity to the shelf. Other times, if I don't need that, I'll use iron on. If I have spots that I can't get my iron into, I will use solid wood.
 
#13 ·
I like to use pretty thick hardwood edge on plywood and then apply the veneer… Give you a lot of real estate to shape that final panel, and flexibility fitting it as a door for example.

I mill my hardwood edging over thickness of the plywood, glue it then rout it flush with the ply substrate. Lay some veneer and press… Easy as cake!
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yep,

Norm Abrams did it MANY years ago on cabinet grade plywood. Only problem is the thin veneer layer of the finish surface. Otherwise it is more stable. Voids in the plywood can be troublesome if you are thinking of lesser grades of plywood?

You might have to be creative if you are bringing two edges together as well as precise.

Good luck.
 
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