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water based polyurethane

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Forum topic by Gerry posted 05-06-2015 12:05 PM 1700 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gerry

43 posts in 793 days


05-06-2015 12:05 PM

Topic tags/keywords: pine finish water based polyurethane tip trick question

I am finishing a pine dining table with water based poly (don’t want to “yellow” the wood). Just wondering if anyone has any application tips to help me out. I have tried a synthetic brush and foam applicator. However I keep getting marks when it dries, am I working it too much? Should I be thinning it out? I have access to a sprayer currently. Also has anyone had any success waxing after final coat?
Any and all suggestions are hreatly appreciated.

-- Gerry-Abbotsford BC


12 replies so far

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3021 posts in 1260 days


#1 posted 05-06-2015 12:27 PM

it may differ with the brand, but I’ve used GF high performance, and I’ve had to discipline myself to apply it differently than wipe on poly. Instead of trying to make the coat as thin as possible, I use a foam brush to apply it. I wouldn’t call it liberally, but I’m not trying to apply an especially thin coat, and then I do not work it at all, but allow the poly itself to level itself out.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1882 posts in 1597 days


#2 posted 05-06-2015 12:35 PM

Spraying the easiest way to apply but should use a paper filter loading the spray gun. There are additives can add to make flow better but never used the stuff. Maybe someone can chime in on additives. Not sure about thinning whether brushing or spraying!

Light sanding between coats helps remove imperfections and levels the surface preparing for next coat no matter how you apply poly.

When brushing keep the brush wet only secret can pass on.

-- Bill

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 684 days


#3 posted 05-06-2015 03:26 PM

I used to use Zip guard a lot, it worked well for indoor planter stands never got any staining or milky coloration when wifey sloshed water all over it while feeding the plants. I applied 4 or 5 coats and never did again nearly 30 yrs ago. Still looks good.

I hated keeping the chemicals around to clean oil based paints, stains clears.

-- I meant to do that!

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

868 posts in 1747 days


#4 posted 05-06-2015 03:58 PM

I’ve also used GF water-based poly and have had great success with spraying it. I would use the sprayer.

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

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Gerry

43 posts in 793 days


#5 posted 05-06-2015 04:33 PM

Thanks fellow LJ’s I will attempt to put the advice to good use. Without a sprayer, I guess best bet is to apply a fairly wet coat and let it level itself out, not work it too much.

-- Gerry-Abbotsford BC

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

868 posts in 1747 days


#6 posted 05-06-2015 04:39 PM

Whoops, I thought you said you HAD access to a sprayer. I must have misread. I have also applied it with a foam brush. It came out okay, but not as nice as the sprayer.

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

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Gerry

43 posts in 793 days


#7 posted 05-07-2015 12:48 AM

Nope that’s my fault intended to type do not have access to a sprayer and instead typed have access.

-- Gerry-Abbotsford BC

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

2327 posts in 1890 days


#8 posted 05-07-2015 02:27 AM

I use a foam roller – slap it on thick, roll roll roll, quick, let it lay out flat,,,, And Do NOT go back ,,, repeat do not go back!!
Like magic, when it dries, the tiny wrinkles that you could see when wet, just vanish.
I use Varathane water base 3X poly.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View sawdust703's profile

sawdust703

270 posts in 882 days


#9 posted 05-09-2015 05:00 AM

I’ve used the verathane Water base put out by Rustoleum. I sprayed it on, but also learned, after the third coat, and the finish turnin’ a milky color, a damn hard lesson. According to the Rustoleum folks, EVERY COAT needs to dry 48 hours! And that won’t happen! Nonsense! I followed their instructions to the letter! And it still turned a milky color. That can went in the trash, & haven’t used water base anything since! Avoid it if at all possible!!

-- Sawdust703

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3021 posts in 1260 days


#10 posted 05-09-2015 09:25 AM

one of the virtues of the GF water based poly is how fast it dries. Haven’t had anything turn milky.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Gerry's profile

Gerry

43 posts in 793 days


#11 posted 05-10-2015 03:30 PM

Tried a velure covered roller and it worked well except it introduced to many air bubbles into the finish, my final coat was a synthetic paint brush, put on a thick coat and it leveled itself out. Seemed like the trick was to not go back and touch up spots you think need touching up. This finish dries so fast.

-- Gerry-Abbotsford BC

View Greenhorn31's profile

Greenhorn31

1 post in 553 days


#12 posted 05-31-2015 10:25 PM



one of the virtues of the GF water based poly is how fast it dries. Haven t had anything turn milky.

- CharlesA


Charles, I have pushed the envelope with the quality of finish using minwax polycrylic and after the 4th coat or so I’m getting what looks like blush but it doesn’t go away with a new coat. Once I get the build up I want I use Polarshine Polishing Compounds and the finish is glass but there’s a that milky hue that’s driving g me crazy any thoughts as to what might be causing it.

Thanks in advance!
Robert

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