Jointer help

I use the green scotchbrite pads to clean off the surface from light rust. to prevent it I use Boeshield T9, or you can also use Paste Wax (Johnson) which would be a cheaper solution.

Cast Iron – GOTTA BE Protected against the elements, or it WILL rust.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Get yourself a Zerust VCI capsule and set it on top of the jointer bed when you are not using it or you could fix it somewhere close where the fence is.
They cost about $ 6.00 from Woodcraft
Obviously don’t let it get wet….

I follow Purplev’s regiment and get good results in a western NY climate.

Covering with a good heavy cotton towel helps as well.

Have you tried Navel Jelly? I used it to clean rust off my Motorcycle in the past. Here in Tx. I have not had a rust problem….LOL

-- New woodworker, be gentle

You are going to want to “slick up” the surface of th jointer anyway so that the wood slides over it easily so I would go with either the Johnsons Paste Wax or one of the purpose-made materials like TopCoat. I use the TopCoat and it has done a good job of keeping the cast iron slick and rust free. We’ve had nearly a foot of rain and hot weather last month and despite opening the garage door a bunch of times, no rust on anything. (Now I have to go back out and look again jsut to be sure….)

-- Tom Hintz, www.newwoodworker.com

WD-40 = Water Displacement, it doesn’t stop rust from forming. I know guys who have tested it on freshly machined steel and had rust form over night. Use something else for rust prevention.

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

Paste wax or automotive wax on all unpainted cast iron. I had some nice old Turtle wax that worked great, haven’t been able to find it in a while. Once you’ve cleaned off the existing rust that is.

I have used brake cleaner before to remove the oily stuff that my tools came shipped with. That might work nice on rust and prepping too. I’m not sure if there are nasty side effects. But don’t get in on paint and make sure you buff it all off.

-- You know.... I think that old wood needs to be furniture.

I have never used the purpose made products, just paste wax and it does the job for me. Stear clear of anything silicone or petromeum based. You dont want that stuff near your wood. Also make sure to get in the habbit of not leaving wood on your iron surfaces, especially treated as it will rust it very quickly. If I have to cut treated I usually wipe things down real good afterwards.

-- Scott, South Carolina

floor wax works fine

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon, custom furniture,woodworking school,heirloomwoodshop.com

Clean off any left over oil or grease with mineral spirits, then once dry apply paste floor wax.

-- Mike

You people ROCK! Thank you all for your advise. I have followed it and removed the rust and waxed it. So far, so good. But even after cleaning the rust off the metal has discolored…any way to restore that pretty clean finish?

-- Semper Fi, Randy Sr.

Paste wax. I put it on once or twice a year… no rust. Otherwise a thin film of rust forms overnight. works even when it gets very humid.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful. http://web.me.com/deceiver6/Deceiver/Craftsman_on_the_lake/Craftsman_on_the_lake.html

Hey Randy. I had a problem with rust on my Grizzly jointer, but it was my own fault. I had applied the wax, but one day after jointing some boards, I got in a rush and didn’t wipe the table down to get all the moister off when I was done. I covered it as usual and let it set…. about a week later, uncovered and there it was. RUST. I used one of those scotch brite pads and a little 3-in-1 oil with very light pressure. It didn’t scratch the bed and got rid of the rust. I was quick to re-wax the bed and now, always take the time to wipe down the table before I cover it. Good luck.
JJ

-- JJ...... I guess you could say I'm a 54 year old "juniorjock". — Make things with wood.