Jointer help

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Forum topic by RandyMarine posted 08-05-2009 05:24 PM 1373 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View RandyMarine's profile


236 posts in 2792 days

08-05-2009 05:24 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer

Good Morning all,

I just purchased a SteelX 6 1/8” Jointer from Grizzley on clearence about a month ago. ($239.00 + $79.00 S&H) I will write a review as soon as I learn how to use it properly. I put it together and the bed was covered in kosmoline. I whipped it all off and stuck my jointer in the shop.

Well, it has been very humid and rained alot this last month. About 2 weeks ago I noticed rust starting on the bed of the jointer I cleaned it with a wire brush and WD-40. But this left the finish kind of tarnished. Everyday more rust appears. I clean it but nothing I have done is stopping it.

What is the best way to remove rust and tarnish from my jointer….and what would be a great way to prevent this from happening again.

-- Semper Fi, Randy Sr.

14 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile


8523 posts in 3072 days

#1 posted 08-05-2009 05:30 PM

I use the green scotchbrite pads to clean off the surface from light rust. to prevent it I use Boeshield T9, or you can also use Paste Wax (Johnson) which would be a cheaper solution.

Cast Iron – GOTTA BE Protected against the elements, or it WILL rust.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View jerryz's profile


164 posts in 2702 days

#2 posted 08-05-2009 05:35 PM

Get yourself a Zerust VCI capsule and set it on top of the jointer bed when you are not using it or you could fix it somewhere close where the fence is.
They cost about $ 6.00 from Woodcraft
Obviously don’t let it get wet….

View knotscott's profile


7147 posts in 2799 days

#3 posted 08-05-2009 05:41 PM

I follow Purplev’s regiment and get good results in a western NY climate.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View DavidFisher's profile


77 posts in 3120 days

#4 posted 08-05-2009 05:42 PM

Covering with a good heavy cotton towel helps as well.

View woodsoldier's profile


48 posts in 2759 days

#5 posted 08-05-2009 06:51 PM

Have you tried Navel Jelly? I used it to clean rust off my Motorcycle in the past. Here in Tx. I have not had a rust problem….LOL

-- Retired from Active Duty

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 2821 days

#6 posted 08-05-2009 07:08 PM

You are going to want to “slick up” the surface of th jointer anyway so that the wood slides over it easily so I would go with either the Johnsons Paste Wax or one of the purpose-made materials like TopCoat. I use the TopCoat and it has done a good job of keeping the cast iron slick and rust free. We’ve had nearly a foot of rain and hot weather last month and despite opening the garage door a bunch of times, no rust on anything. (Now I have to go back out and look again jsut to be sure….)

-- Tom Hintz,

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


17577 posts in 3099 days

#7 posted 08-05-2009 11:30 PM

WD-40 = Water Displacement, it doesn’t stop rust from forming. I know guys who have tested it on freshly machined steel and had rust form over night. Use something else for rust prevention.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View BeachedBones's profile


201 posts in 2825 days

#8 posted 08-06-2009 12:27 AM

Paste wax or automotive wax on all unpainted cast iron. I had some nice old Turtle wax that worked great, haven’t been able to find it in a while. Once you’ve cleaned off the existing rust that is.

I have used brake cleaner before to remove the oily stuff that my tools came shipped with. That might work nice on rust and prepping too. I’m not sure if there are nasty side effects. But don’t get in on paint and make sure you buff it all off.

-- You know.... I think that old wood needs to be furniture.

View Scott 's profile


103 posts in 2782 days

#9 posted 08-06-2009 01:01 AM

I have never used the purpose made products, just paste wax and it does the job for me. Stear clear of anything silicone or petromeum based. You dont want that stuff near your wood. Also make sure to get in the habbit of not leaving wood on your iron surfaces, especially treated as it will rust it very quickly. If I have to cut treated I usually wipe things down real good afterwards.

-- Scott, South Carolina

View a1Jim's profile


115177 posts in 3000 days

#10 posted 08-06-2009 04:42 AM

floor wax works fine

-- Custom furniture

View mikedddd's profile


146 posts in 2653 days

#11 posted 08-06-2009 07:02 AM

Clean off any left over oil or grease with mineral spirits, then once dry apply paste floor wax.

-- Mike

View RandyMarine's profile


236 posts in 2792 days

#12 posted 08-06-2009 12:39 PM

You people ROCK! Thank you all for your advise. I have followed it and removed the rust and waxed it. So far, so good. But even after cleaning the rust off the metal has discolored…any way to restore that pretty clean finish?

-- Semper Fi, Randy Sr.

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2506 posts in 2861 days

#13 posted 08-06-2009 12:47 PM

Paste wax. I put it on once or twice a year… no rust. Otherwise a thin film of rust forms overnight. works even when it gets very humid.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View juniorjock's profile


1930 posts in 3189 days

#14 posted 08-07-2009 01:30 AM

Hey Randy. I had a problem with rust on my Grizzly jointer, but it was my own fault. I had applied the wax, but one day after jointing some boards, I got in a rush and didn’t wipe the table down to get all the moister off when I was done. I covered it as usual and let it set…. about a week later, uncovered and there it was. RUST. I used one of those scotch brite pads and a little 3-in-1 oil with very light pressure. It didn’t scratch the bed and got rid of the rust. I was quick to re-wax the bed and now, always take the time to wipe down the table before I cover it. Good luck.

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