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Cutting 2" board into two 1" boards

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Forum topic by mandolin posted 08-04-2009 06:34 AM 1451 views 0 times favorited 30 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mandolin

11 posts in 2681 days


08-04-2009 06:34 AM

Hello,
I have some 2” thick quartersawn spruce that I am wanting to split or cut in half in order to get two 1” boards. The board is 10” wide and 16” long.
I bout the spruce to make a mandolin top, and the guy I bought it from said I could cut in half to get two tops out of it. The problem is that he didn’t tell me how to do it. What tool would I need to accomplish this? My uncle has lots of power tools,( table saw, band saw etc.) that I can use.
Thanks
Matt


30 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3111 days


#1 posted 08-04-2009 07:06 AM

bandsaw. google “resawing” and you’ll find some good info about how to do it. you’ll need a bandsaw with a minumum of 10” resaw capacity to make full use of your boards though.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View jerryz's profile

jerryz

164 posts in 2741 days


#2 posted 08-04-2009 07:08 AM

Well by your description you need to “resaw” your lumber and the proper tool to do it would be a Band Saw.
There are 2 main reasons why it is the best tool for it.
First the “Kerf” of the band saw is way thinner than the Table Saw even if you try to use a “Thin Kerf” blade for it the Band Saw it is the winner here.
Also you say your board is 10” wide and a normal Table saw with a 10” blade wont be able to cut the board in half even with 2 passes which means you would need to finish the cut with hand saw.
Another thing to consider is that you also said that your board is 2” thick when you resaw it even with a Band Saw the Kerf is going to be maybe 1/16” for a thin kerf band still you wont be able to have 2 pieces 1” thick
you will need to compromise.
Hope this helps….

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mandolin

11 posts in 2681 days


#3 posted 08-04-2009 07:21 AM

Thanks guys. So would a 10” bandsaw do the trick? or is 10” refering to something else?

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jerryz

164 posts in 2741 days


#4 posted 08-04-2009 07:28 AM

Ha that is a very good question a 10” band Saw will not necessarily “resaw” 10”
read the specs of the band saw and it should specify how much “resaw” capacity the particular band saw has.
I would think that you would need a 14” band saw to be able to resaw 10” YMMV
My Carftsman 12” Band Saw for example will only resaw 7”

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TopamaxSurvivor

17669 posts in 3139 days


#5 posted 08-04-2009 08:22 AM

If you can’t find a suitable band saw, you could do each side as far as you can go on a table saw and finish it with a hand saw. A rip saw would be best, but they aren’t very common. A crosscut will eventually get it done.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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mandolin

11 posts in 2681 days


#6 posted 08-04-2009 03:31 PM

I watched some videos on doing it by hand, and I think I could pull it off. What kind of hand saw would you all recomend? This spruce is extremely soft, so I am concerned about tear out.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3111 days


#7 posted 08-04-2009 03:34 PM

I’ve had very good experience with Japanese pull saws -so Ryoba would be my first choice. you can get one fairly inexpensive as well.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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mandolin

11 posts in 2681 days


#8 posted 08-04-2009 03:36 PM

Also, since the wood is quartersawn and I am resawing it, I would be cutting against the grain, right?

View Karson's profile

Karson

35035 posts in 3863 days


#9 posted 08-04-2009 03:50 PM

You would be cutting against the grain if you cut your 16” board into two 8” boards. You will still be basicly ripping the board because you are cutting with the long grain of the wood.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia karsonwm@gmail.com †

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9435 posts in 3515 days


#10 posted 08-04-2009 05:52 PM

1. All pieces should be jointed, flattened, & planed to the same thicknesses.

2. If your band saw cannot resaw a 10” height, rip them into 5” strips, resaw, & glue back together as required.

3. Mark lines down the center of each piece.

4. Resaw down the middle being sure that you stay on the line.
Be able to move the board ever so slightly to stay on the line.
Also, try to keep moving at a constant slow speed. NEVER get your hands behind the wood INLINE with the BLADE… NO MATTER WHAT! Have a push stick ready to use as desired.

Using a feather board to hold it a little bit against the fence, just before the blade, helps too… as long as you can still move to stay on the line… (not a really FIRM featherboard… just enough to keep in the general location).

Those are just some of the things I’ve learned by trying it… I’m sure there are probably more tricks, etc. on doing it.

5. Thickness Plane the cut sides smooth… To a uniform thickness.

You will probably end up with two pieces about 3/4” thick.

Should work just fine.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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mandolin

11 posts in 2681 days


#11 posted 08-04-2009 06:51 PM

Thanks for all the info guys.
Cutting them to 5” and gluing back together is unfortunately not an option. I’m aiming for a one piece top on the mandolin. I had to specially order a big piece of quartersawn spruce to acomplish that.
I’ll check out the ryoba. I don’t think my uncle’s bandsaw will resaw 10”.

I wonder if a local woodworking shop with a bigger bandsaw wood cut it for me? How much would something like that cost. I’ve already got $50 into the piece of wood, which is $25 per top assuming I can get it resawn. I hate to put to much more money into it.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9435 posts in 3515 days


#12 posted 08-04-2009 07:01 PM

You can get it resawn, it’s possible.

You might be able to ship a board to someone & have it done… if nothing else works out.

Is a mandolin top, etc. 3/4” thick? Somehow, I thought they would be thinner…

Good luck…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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AaronK

1440 posts in 2927 days


#13 posted 08-04-2009 07:09 PM

interesting thread. please post pics when you’re done – and of the process if you can/are willing!

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mandolin

11 posts in 2681 days


#14 posted 08-04-2009 07:12 PM

The tops are actually much thinner, but they are carved into an arch. Because the surfaces are concave and convex, it takes a 1” board to get the correct height.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9435 posts in 3515 days


#15 posted 08-04-2009 07:27 PM

Oh…

A bandsaw blade has the thinnest kerf you’ll find for resawing… most blades are thinner than 1/32”...

If the cut side can go on the inside or outside and must not have to be planed smooth, you will come as close as you can to 1” from a 2” board; otherwise, you will not get 1” pieces.

My G0555 has about a 12” resaw capacity, although I have never cut that far yet… It’s not unusual for someone to be able resaw 10”... I don’t think you will have a problem finding someone to do it.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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