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Tuning the Bandsaw

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Forum topic by Don posted 602 days ago 1330 views 4 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites
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Don

2586 posts in 626 days


602 days ago

This is an article that has been worked around a bit and was in a woodworking club newsletter that I used to edit. I’m sorry that I can’t recall the origin of this article, but there is as much of me in it as the original author. I’m being up-front in stating that although I’ve modified it considerably, it is not all my work. However, it contains a lot of useful information for those of you that are new to the bandsaw.

Have you ever notice how hard it is to rip a length of lumber on the bandsaw, especially a tall, thin piece (known as re-sawing)? You set the fence, previously aligned parallel to the miter slot. You set the width of the cut allowing a little extra for a pass over the jointer. Then you line up the wood against the fence and push.

And pretty much without exception, especially on a long cut, it will either crawl away from the fence or bind against it, causing the blade to deform sideways away from the fence.

The end result, in either case, is a tapered, irregularly shaped piece of work. This effect is usually exaggerated as you rip taller pieces. And it’s even more noticeable when you are ripping thin pieces, such as 18” veneer. It is usually devastating to your project, or else you cut extra thick to plane it true, wasting valuable timber.

This is a 100% common experience with bandsaws. The basic reason is that the blade is not parallel to the miter slot. Several factors are the cause, including blade tracking on the wheel, wheel alignment and blade tension. In the ideal world we would tune these out. In reality it’s very difficult, and won’t stay for long periods.

This inherent difficulty actually has a pretty easy ‘workaround’. The answer is “compensate”. Take a piece of 3/4” scrap at least 2’ long and about 4” wide with one clean, straight, and true edge. (Pass it over your jointer to achieve this.) Draw a line 1/4” from, and parallel to, the clean edge. Use a gauge if necessary, but the line must be parallel to the edge. Loosen the angle adjustment on the fence. You may have a factory fence that takes a wrench to set the fence angle. If not, you might want to build your own adjustable fence system.

The photos of mine below show one approach; this one also has a tall re-saw fence.

Slide the saw fence safely off to the left but keep it accessible. Start a freehand cut carefully guiding the timber through the blade along the line on the test board. Be smooth in your adjustments to follow the line. Don’t wander back and forth. In other words, don’t be swinging the board left and right to stay on the line. Make little corrections so that you ultimately establish a “cut path” before you run out of board. Cut slowly (at first) and continue until you get a cut that is tracking the line. About 3/4 of the way through the cut, or when you are sure you have established the track, holding the timber firmly, and turn off the saw.

DO NOT MOVE the piece. Clamp it to the table in this exact position (or hold it firmly). Slide the fence against the clean edge and tighten the angle adjustment.

With my shop-made table and fence this is easy. I simply loosen the front and rear knobs on the fence and adjust the angle of the fence to the wood. The front knob goes through a slotted hole that allows the fence to be adjusted at an angle. That’s the tracking angle for this blade, under this tension, at this particular time.

I was skeptical, especially when I could see the offset angle. But I then cut a 2mm slice off a 15mm piece of timber 1m long. Awesome! I never knew the saw could perform so well prior to understanding this.

You will have to do this setup prior to any bandsaw work if you have changed the blade, the blade tension, or the wheel alignment and it’s worthwhile checking the drift angle even if you haven’t. But the short time this takes is well worth the result.

Here’s a shot of the underside of my bandsaw that shows how the larger table was attached to my Jet 14” bandsaw.

This is the sail-track that I used in the table. [See my comments here on my drill press table for more details on this aluminum track.]

-- CanuckDon "I just love small wooden boxes!" http://www.canterburybaptist.org/

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frank

1349 posts in 655 days


602 days ago

Hi Don;
—-well its cold out today and next I’m heading to the barn to rip some wide pine boards. And yes its going to be way cold in there also which explains why I’m in taking a break.

Good article Don, I use my bandsaw often for re-sawing timbers and wood burls, so I am always playing and tuning it to keep that line true. This problem you have descibed here of ‘crawling away from’ or ‘leading into’ is what I also call bandsaw drift. You have described and worked out a very good solution to what can be descibed as you have so stated; a devastating and frustrating problem. Nothing like doing some bookmarking on a re-saw and finding out you have lost some good character of wood to ‘drift’.

I have also found that it helps to maintain a sharp blade. Ha! One thought comes to my mind now of when I first started using a bandsaw. I had a friend who told me that one of the first things I would do is spend time and wood just seeing how thin I could saw. Well he was right, of course he had already put the the idea into my head by then. Spent some time yes I did, just seeing how thin I was able to go, and so sliver thin it was. After all those years ago, I still have some of those slivers around which I always figure, yes one day I will use.

Thank you for taking the time to write a great article here.
Frank

-- --frank, NH, http://frank.wordpress.com/

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Obi

2147 posts in 686 days


587 days ago

How much t-track did you end up buying?

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

View Don's profile

Don

2586 posts in 626 days


587 days ago

8 meters = about 26’

-- CanuckDon "I just love small wooden boxes!" http://www.canterburybaptist.org/

View Don's profile

Don

2586 posts in 626 days


470 days ago

After reading this post by Scott, I thought I would bump this post to the top in case there are others who don’t understand bandsaw drift.

-- CanuckDon "I just love small wooden boxes!" http://www.canterburybaptist.org/

View David's profile

David

1810 posts in 587 days


470 days ago

Don -

Thanks for the important tip. I like your table and fence! I need to build something similar so this is great timing.

-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com

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scottb

2870 posts in 776 days


470 days ago

thanks for this one Don.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Vincent Van Gogh

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Bob Babcock

1811 posts in 535 days


470 days ago

Good timing…I get my 1st bandsaw tomorrow….Thanks Don

-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org

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Hawgnutz

483 posts in 525 days


469 days ago

Thanks, Don. I just got my bandsaw out and tried some resawing, but the drift killed the cut. My Craftsman saw just don’t cut like the older ones! I wish, now, that I had paid some more and gotten a Rikon. Still, with the inspiration from your posting I think I can get it to slice like I want it to.

BTW, are you using the “sail track” in place of a T-track? Where do you get the sail track? Can you use a toilet bolt in them like you can in a t-track?

Thanks for the infomative posts!
God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards

View Don's profile

Don

2586 posts in 626 days


469 days ago

Hawg, I live in Australia. There’s a aluminum extrusion supplier who, amongst many other profiles, supplies sail track for sailboats. I use standard coach bolts in this. Toilet bolts don’t fit.

However, sail track would not be my choice if purpose-made ‘T-track’ had been available at a reasonable price. The sail track does not have a flat profile on the top and the coach bolts slide in the track with a little resistance.

If you live in the USA or Canada, I recommend you source a purpose-made track – it’s superior.

-- CanuckDon "I just love small wooden boxes!" http://www.canterburybaptist.org/

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mot

4839 posts in 485 days


469 days ago

There is always an idea or two in an article like this that is really helpful. Thanks for posting it Don.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View USCJeff's profile

USCJeff

793 posts in 517 days


468 days ago

Good stuff. Check out Marc’s video at the Wood Whisperer site. It’s episode 13. He hits the basics as well as adds some personal preference to tuning up the saw. I found that when I got my first bandsaw last year, I had no idea where all the bearings and guides should be. Why do I need to have a dollar bill to set it up? I used it out of the box and didn’t love the tool. After properly tuning it, I don’t know how I get by without it.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

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Bryan

3 posts in 453 days


386 days ago

Super Don!! Maybe I won’t have to throw my band saw out after all.

-- Bryan

View Dick Cain's profile

Dick Cain

4829 posts in 748 days


386 days ago

Nice table set up Don.

I missed this one the first time I guess. I’m glad it showed up again.

I haven’t had any drift with my new Rikon yet, But it usually does when the blade starts dulling. I think the fence is adjustable on mine.

-- Dick Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View cajunpen's profile

cajunpen

5352 posts in 514 days


386 days ago

Thanks Don, I ran across a very similar “Tune-UP” article a month or so ago and tried it on my 14” Grizzly. Made a world of difference. I’m glad that Bryan & Dick commented on this article to bring it back to the front. I’m sure that there are a few LJs out there that will benefit from it.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

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