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Best joint for hardwood carcass cabinet???

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Forum topic by New2hardwood posted 04-27-2015 01:16 AM 1036 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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New2hardwood

2 posts in 593 days


04-27-2015 01:16 AM

Hi All,

This is my first post!!!! I am am pretty junior to furniture making but managed to finish a 3-in-1 crib for my son (which led to the purchase of a Sawstop table saw among other power tools!!!)

Now I am wanting to make an armoire 60”h x 45”w x 25”d and have this on a box stand (with drawers).

My plan is to edge glue 1×6 boards (flatsawn S4S hard maple) to make each of the 4 sides. I realize that I should align the grain properly for all 4 sides! But I wanted to know what type of joint I should use at the corners? I live in Canada so we have winters of -40 celsius and summers to +34 celsius so changing humidity is the norm.

Are biscuits acceptable for wood movement, or should I be looking at doing some other joint to accommodate for expansion? I looked at my Collins book and the Joint Book but neither gave any good advice….

thanks,

Jared


11 replies so far

View skatefriday's profile

skatefriday

380 posts in 949 days


#1 posted 04-27-2015 01:19 AM

Have you looked into using a nice cabinet grade hardwood plywood?

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 689 days


#2 posted 04-27-2015 02:32 AM

I cut rabbits and dadoes for the carcass

-- I meant to do that!

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4036 posts in 1818 days


#3 posted 04-27-2015 02:40 AM

If I get your concept right you aren’t going to need to worry about wood movement if you align the sides and top and bottom with the same grain orientation as it will all move in unison. Any number of joints could be used, rabbets, dovetails, box joints, splined miters, the list goes on. Biscuits would not be my choice.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4859 posts in 2280 days


#4 posted 04-27-2015 02:42 AM

I like dados for the fixed horizontal shelves. Rabbets for back panels work really well.

Biscuits work well to attach face frames to a plywood carcass.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13520 posts in 1323 days


#5 posted 04-27-2015 02:52 AM

Biscuits will work just fine. Where you’ll have to worry about wood movement is with the bottom and top.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1776 days


#6 posted 04-27-2015 04:45 AM

I think you’re right on track using solid as opposed to plywood for this project. Solid wood makes much nicer furniture than plywood.

That being said I’d make the box using dovetails or box joint if you have the ability. Wood movement won’t be and issue because the grain will run the same direction around the box posing no cross grain situations even on the top and bottom. Take a look at this picture an note the dovetails and grain direction.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

528 posts in 908 days


#7 posted 04-27-2015 06:52 AM

If you’re building similar to the pic above (from AlaskaGuy)—then you should NOT glue the back together as a solid panel or you WILL have issues with wood movement (back will expand/contract across the width, but top and bottom won’t).

You can use T&G or shiplap or plywood, but not glued-up solid wood

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1776 days


#8 posted 04-27-2015 11:39 AM



If you re building similar to the pic above (from AlaskaGuy)—then you should NOT glue the back together as a solid panel or you WILL have issues with wood movement (back will expand/contract across the width, but top and bottom won t).

You can use T&G or shiplap or plywood, but not glued-up solid wood

- jerryminer


+1

I used a 1/4’’ piece of Plywood for the back. It sits against the wall and is full of drawers, you never see the plywood.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13520 posts in 1323 days


#9 posted 04-27-2015 12:32 PM

Ok, I was thinking of two sides, a back and front and then a top and bottom with grain running a different direction. If it’s like alaskaguy pictured then disregard my comment about bottom and top.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View New2hardwood's profile

New2hardwood

2 posts in 593 days


#10 posted 04-27-2015 05:35 PM

Thanks for all the quick replies!!!!

Looks like I will do dovetails for joinery and rabbet in a frame-and-panel back (I did some reading and apparently it helps prevent racking?!?).

Looks like its time to buy a Leigh dovetail jig!!!!

Jared

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1836 days


#11 posted 04-27-2015 06:25 PM

Or a dovetail saw and some chisels, always an option. Not saying the jig won’t work as well, just a suggestion.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

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