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Tapering 3 inch legs

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Forum topic by Brian posted 08-03-2009 02:31 PM 1007 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Brian

79 posts in 3179 days


08-03-2009 02:31 PM

Any suggestions on how to taper 3” thick legs?
I usually use a taper jig but this time the legs and jig would be higher that the TS blade.
TIA for any and all replies.

-- http://www.brianpenning.com/


8 replies so far

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16244 posts in 3686 days


#1 posted 08-03-2009 03:07 PM

The only other thought that comes to mind is to do it on a bandsaw. You could possibly either draw the taper lines out and make the cuts freehand, or make a jig of some sort.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View teenagewoodworker's profile

teenagewoodworker

2727 posts in 3236 days


#2 posted 08-03-2009 03:18 PM

bandsaw and a handplane is probably the best way to do it in your situation

View coloradoclimber's profile

coloradoclimber

548 posts in 3535 days


#3 posted 08-03-2009 03:30 PM

Brian, Another option might be to use a jointer. Sounds like a lot of wood to remove but the jointer would be wide enough. I remember reading an article in FWW (here’s link1 and link2 but both require a paid subscription, maybe you can find a copy). Google tapering using a jointer and you should come up with some descriptions. Here’s one quick example.

View Gary's profile

Gary

8970 posts in 2901 days


#4 posted 08-03-2009 03:32 PM

I use the jointer. Cut a wedge for the leg to ride on as it passes over the blade. It takes some practice.

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115207 posts in 3045 days


#5 posted 08-03-2009 04:04 PM

make a sled or jig for you table saw or band saw

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1510 posts in 3593 days


#6 posted 08-03-2009 07:09 PM

You could probably set up a jig for a planer, too, not just a jointer.

Might take most of the stock off with a cut on either side on the tablesaw and then clean-up mismatch with the jointer or planer.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View BeachedBones's profile

BeachedBones

201 posts in 2870 days


#7 posted 08-03-2009 10:10 PM

I’m with a1Jim, 3” should be possible with a 10” blade. Maybe revisit your taper jig design. A simple wedge jig that rides along the rip fence. Or could make the jig a fixed angle that could be flipped with the leg to the left side of the blade to finish the cut.

-- You know.... I think that old wood needs to be furniture.

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5839 posts in 3053 days


#8 posted 08-03-2009 10:28 PM

When I do tapers, I use this method, on the side touching the fence I apply a large headed screw or bolt.Then I unscrew this out to match the taper and simly run it through.You need to keep the bolt nearest to yourself before running it through so that you get a good long run before it wanders away from the fence.You could also hot melt glue a short or longer tapered piece of wood nearest to the fence that works too.have fun Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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