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Forum topic by Dadoo posted 2513 days ago 4058 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dadoo

1763 posts in 2588 days


2513 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: pitch removal

Hey guys and gals…What do you use to get rid of the accumulated pitch on your saw blades? I tried a comercial brand once but wonder if simple gasoline or kerosene would work better.

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!


7 replies so far

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mot

4911 posts in 2634 days


#1 posted 2513 days ago

I use this from Lee Valley…it works okay. I’m not sure, but most solvents will probably do an adequate job.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

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Bill

2579 posts in 2759 days


#2 posted 2513 days ago

I think someone mentioned WD-40 would also work too, but not tried it myself.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

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Dadoo

1763 posts in 2588 days


#3 posted 2512 days ago

First I’d like to thank you for your replies!

I was at Sears today and bought a quart of Acetone for $2.50, the Lee Valley product is $10.95+ for 500cc…I figured Acetone would be worth a try as it comes in much cheaper than the other stuff. If you have a stack of $100.00 blades though, you might want to try the pro stuff from Lee Valley. I have three 10” pitch coated blades to clean and this is what happened:

The Oldham blades immediately lost their paint…big deal. They also immediately lost the accumulated pitch as well! I then used a small brass bristle brush to “brush” its teeth. Excellent results. I then sprayed the acetone off with water and dryed the blades. Some remaining pitch was “caught between its teeth” and was removed easily with light applications to a wire wheel, attached to my bench grinder. My other blade is a Freud Diablo and has a teflon coat. The acetone didn’t bother this coating at all. This is good! I finalized all three with a light coating of WD-40 and put them back on the rack.

Remember…I didn’t soak these blades for more than a few minutes each. Overnight soaking may or may not harm the non-stick surfaces. I don’t need to find out as the job is done. Oh…Smoking is bad for you and reacts violently with Acetone! So don’t smoke while doing this!

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

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Woodminer

69 posts in 2535 days


#4 posted 2512 days ago

My local tool guy gave me a sample of some really dandy stuff that is organic in nature (no stinking solvents and no risk of flames). I’ll get the name for you. I tried it and it was like soap taking dirt off hands. Quick and easy, actually. Got down to slick and clean steel in nothing flat. I then treated it with one of the ”*-Kote” products and have not had the problem since. Even cutting lots of pine and fir.

-- Dean, Missouri

View CedarFreakCarl's profile

CedarFreakCarl

594 posts in 2651 days


#5 posted 2512 days ago

I never thought of using acetone even though I’ve got a half gallon downstairs. I’ll have to try it. Lord knows I’ve cleaned everything else with it. Too bad I just bought a can of the CMT orange stuff just yesterday. I’ve got 7 or 8 blades I need to clean (and sharpen). I’ll have to do a comparison. I’ll bet acetone wins. Of course
if you’ve got anything you value that’s made of plastic, acetone will eat it up.

Thanks for the tip.

-- Carl Rast, Pelion, SC

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Woodminer

69 posts in 2535 days


#6 posted 2512 days ago

The CMT orange stuff is a LOT easier on the lungs, too. That might be what my tool guy gave me. going down to see if I can find it now.

Tool guy said that the repairmen in his shop preferred the orange based stuff because it was easier on their hands and their lungs. Said their nasal passages did not hurt at the end of the day. 8^)

-- Dean, Missouri

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Woodminer

69 posts in 2535 days


#7 posted 2511 days ago

Yup, it’s the CMT Orange stuff. Works gooooood. Almost like magic.

-- Dean, Missouri

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