Bandsaw Tracking - Does it have to be this difficult?

for what it’s worth, I always have to change the angle on the top wheel when switching between 1/2” blade and my 3/16” blade. but both do ride on the tires, and I’m able to set my guides properly for each. the guide limitation might be based on the BS model though – I know that Carter makes guides specifically for 1/8” blades since on some BSs it’s impossible to use the factory set.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Hi Peter

On my Delta 18”, I can change from 1 1/4” down to 1/8” without any adjustments of the wheels. I do have to adjust the roller bearings to support the blade at the rear and the sides, but every bandsaw has to do this when a blade is changed.

The guides do/should not affect the tracking of the blade on the wheel – they are only there to help support the blade when the blade is under pressure/load. You should be able to remove the guides totally and get any blade to track dead centre on both the top and bottom wheels. If you cannot do this, then either you have a wheel alignment problem, or maybe the tyres need changing.

Have you checked the 1/8” blade – maybe it is warped/twisted or kinked slightly, it does not take much, especially with a fine blade to make wander – the wider the blade the more forgiving it is.

Good luck.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

Peter, try a different blade.
I sounds like you have a bad splice making the blade wander either in or out.

p.s. Can you cut and solder it?

p.s. HiTony!
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

Hi Peter. gosh I am having the same problem. I just got me a bran new Grizzly GO555 band saw. I went from a 3/4 blade to a 1/8th, and that thing just wouldn’t set in the middle no matter what I did. my saw has a cadge on the back for the thickness of blade I use.(tentioning) and I set the blocks, or in my case bearing wheels back.
walked my blade on the wheels., tires, and gosh it took for ever to get it centered. then moved the wheels up to the blade, used the dollar bill to make it right. and it just kept slipping off the tire. played with that thing for ever. so then,,, I just placed the blocks behind the blade, made them tight so the blade couldn’t get stuck, got the blade up as close to the middle as I could, and cut some stuff. I know. not good. but I felt safe enough, that the blade would not come off the back. or front. funny thing was. the blade seemed to set in place. and didn’t come off even when I adjusted the blocks, wheels in my case. I figured that the rubber tires on my wheels. was grooved to the 3/4 blade and the 1/8 just didn’t wont to seat well. I probably had the tension set to tight in the first place and of course a grove. it all works great now. don’t know if this helped. but from a newbie. this worked for me. Evie

-- If you don't learn from the past, your doomed to repeat it.

Hi Bob

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

If the blade is good then it should be able to be tracked. I’ve got an oplder Sears that I use for my 1/8” blades and larger blades on the bigger machine. So I can’t say for sure what I’d have to do on my big machine to get 1/8” blades to track.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

I think I’ve figured it out, guys!

My wheels are in alignment vertically – if you lay a straightedge across the rims right next to the hubs, they are dead-on.

My wheels are not in alignment horizontally – if you lay a straightedge across the rims near the front or rear of the wheels, they are way off.

So, tilting the upper wheel and adjusting the wheel position on the axles doesn’t solve the problem. The upper arm is not correctly aligned with the base, and there’s no adjustment for that. Apparently the solution is to turn the upper arm assembly slightly. I haven’t done this yet, because it means partial disassembly of the saw and removing the alignment pins, which I’m not looking forward to.

I have a feeling this is why I break so many blades, too.

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