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A question for framers in regards to headers for 24" wide windows.

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 04-16-2015 10:36 AM 878 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Blackie_

4535 posts in 1977 days


04-16-2015 10:36 AM

In my workshop expansion my walls are framed in for 24” wide windows and one 24” wide AC unit wall mount, I spaced the rafters and trusses so that they are resting directly on top of the wall studs do I still need to put a header above the windows if they are fitting in between the studs the rafters are resting on? Can I do simple window framing with double 2×4s? Would a double 2×6 header be an over kill and a waste of lumber?

Note; I did frame one window for a 2×6 header but I still have two more windows and the AC to go yet.

Thanks

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs


16 replies so far

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rwe2156

2198 posts in 946 days


#1 posted 04-16-2015 10:48 AM

Assuming you’re not pulling a permit cause you won’t get away with what you’re doing if you have one. ;-) ;-)

The top plate should be doubled, but for something this small and the rafters directly over the studs you can probably get away with it. You’ve got your king studs so that’s good.

Since the rafters are directly over the studs the weight will be transferred directly so theoretically your header isn’t supporting much weight.

I would just use a double 2×4 on edge.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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Blackie_

4535 posts in 1977 days


#2 posted 04-16-2015 12:11 PM

Thanks Robert, I’m not under city umbrella.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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grizzman

7798 posts in 2768 days


#3 posted 04-16-2015 12:18 PM

what robert said ….

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

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Crank50

173 posts in 1041 days


#4 posted 04-16-2015 12:21 PM

I think you will want the opening for the window AC to have a header. The AC will be putting some lateral load on the framing at that point.
Since you don’t have to worry with “code” you can do as you please, but I would want some kind of header or at least blocking around the window frame, something to nail the trim to.

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Blackie_

4535 posts in 1977 days


#5 posted 04-16-2015 12:25 PM

I’d rather do it right than wrong along with safety, makes since with header over AC Crank.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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Blackie_

4535 posts in 1977 days


#6 posted 04-16-2015 12:26 PM

I’ll do 2×4 headers over the windows and 2×6 header over the AC with jacks, trimmers and cripples.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

17172 posts in 2570 days


#7 posted 04-16-2015 01:16 PM

Likewise. I’d double the 2×4’s on edge…..............Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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grizzman

7798 posts in 2768 days


#8 posted 04-16-2015 02:31 PM

ive always been one to over build, to me it cant hurt to have it over built then under, you will feel better knowing you did it this way…something funny i did when i built my house, i even put hurricane ties on my floor joists…i still laugh at myself for doing that, but at least i know that if my roof gets taken then the next thing the storm has to get is my floor…lol…enjoy the build randy, when in doubt, just double it…

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7705 posts in 2307 days


#9 posted 04-16-2015 04:24 PM

Randy,

Hope I’m not too late! As with door framing headers and jack studs are always used to divert the load. I didn’t look at the top of your wall either . I just figured it as a givin that a double top plate is always used. You do not have serious snow down there. In any case I use a minimum 2×6 header sandwiched with a 1/2 inch sheet of plywood which is again to redirect the roof load.

Below the windows I would also brace with studs and jack studs at both ends. Better too much wood than too little.

The hurricane clips are a must in tornado areas. Attach them to each rafter.

PS

The company is sending me another blade, and requesting a return of the blades that appear to have faulty welds.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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EricN

5 posts in 604 days


#10 posted 04-16-2015 04:29 PM

It depends on where the windows are and how much vertical load they are carrying. Just looking at what you have pictured above, a single 2×6 or double 2×4’s would likely be more than adequate.

I would double the top plate as well but I will say that some builders here in Washington are going to what is called advanced framing which is studs at 24 in. on center with the trusses all registered over studs.

FWIW

View davidcarp's profile

davidcarp

15 posts in 726 days


#11 posted 04-16-2015 05:06 PM

Most building codes allow for a rational analysis for framing design. In your proposed header design there is no additional load on the window header so a header would not be required for gravity loads. However there are out of plane loads on the wall and window. Also the window would require attachment to something at the header location. If you want to trim around the window, even simply an interior finish you would want a header. The cost of the material is insignificant. I would add the header.

I would follow other portions of the code that require, among other things, double top plates.

Most codes require that structural additions such as this one be adequately secured to the main structure. In my area seismic codes would require that the attachments be significant. The idea being that during seismic activity the addtion would go one direction the main building the other. In Texas, not only do I not know the codes but there is little seismic activity. However I would consider attaching the buildings at the top plates with a strap, and at the ridge with whatever connector that would work. Check out simpson strong tie; their catalog is online.

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Blackie_

4535 posts in 1977 days


#12 posted 04-16-2015 05:16 PM

I understood that if the trusses were aligned over the king studs or common studs that a double plate wasn’t required.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7705 posts in 2307 days


#13 posted 04-16-2015 07:20 PM

Randy,

What you have done seems logical for vertical loads. The added top plate also helps in anchoring the corner walls. From picture it looks like you have additional reinforcement (2×6) for corners.

I’m usually overbuilding because I’m a non licensed homeowner working with the building inspector. That is also why I suggested diagonal bracing notched in on the corners. May seem like overkill as you are using rigid USB for the walls. The rigid OSB will also give corner strength. Sometimes builders just go with a paperboard then insulation with horizontal siding so extra strength is needed in framing.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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DocSavage45

7705 posts in 2307 days


#14 posted 04-16-2015 07:23 PM

Randy,

Going to shop to look at adjustments on bandsaw after watching tensioning video from Grizzly and Alex Snodgrass on adjusting and aligning bandsaw. He’s damned impressive.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View davidcarp's profile

davidcarp

15 posts in 726 days


#15 posted 04-16-2015 07:26 PM

Randy,

I have never heard or seen anything in the building codes that double top plates weren’t required if trusses were aligned over wall studs. If you have code reference to this I could maybe interpret it for you.

In wood framing top plates provide several structural functions, one of which is transfer gravity roof framing loads to the wall studs. Say a truss or rafter lands between wall studs, the top plate provides the bridging between. If this were the only function of top plates then what you heard makes sense.

But top plates also provide chords to roof diaphragms, which is why there are minimum top plate splicing requirements in conventional residential codes. FYI in larger buildings top plate splice connection designs often include bolting.

If we continue with the rationality of the code concept, there are ways to design for single member top plates. I have, on occasion, used 4x top plates to provide for outlooker support. But conventional framing practices have been developed for a reason and it is better to simply go with these requirements. Not saying it is absolutely necessary but that it is the best way to frame a small bldg unless you can get adequate structural design advice.

You might want to review the size of your roof and celing framing. I can’t be sure of member size and spans from the photol. As you don’t have a ridge beam you will need to truss your roof framing in order to prevent the roof from saging and the walls from being pushed out. Are the ceiling joists 2×4’s? spanning 20’ or so?

I can’t see for sure from your photos but it appears you might not be balloon framing the studs on the gable end of your addition. If so this would not be good practice and you should probably reframe. If not sorry for raising the issue.

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