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Forum topic by lateralus819 posted 04-16-2015 12:58 AM 890 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1350 days


04-16-2015 12:58 AM

I’ve started making a crosscut sled. Working on the fence system now.

I saw a fence with an adjustable rail for longer cuts.

I added a 22” section on the top of the fence which gives me 16” to the left of the blade and 6” to the right.

The sliding section i added to the front 1” up from the bottom.

I was curious if 1” of registration would be enough for thicker stock? The stock i work with is usually 1”. Was just curious about bigger thickness’.

Also, if any of you who have made them, what do you wish you added?


11 replies so far

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Don W

17958 posts in 2028 days


#1 posted 04-16-2015 11:15 AM

Maybe I haven’t had enough coffee yet, but a picture may help.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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BroncoBrian

435 posts in 1419 days


#2 posted 04-16-2015 02:17 PM

Not tracking with you either. Whatever you are doing, I would start here. Best sled video I have seen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE9f4bp_wm8

-- Bigfoot tries to take pictures of me

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1350 days


#3 posted 04-16-2015 02:40 PM

See how I milled a slot for the t track I the front of the fence. It is 1 inch up from the bottom. I was curious of it was enough for registration. Wasn’t sure of it would cause issues.

View C_PLUS_Woodworker's profile

C_PLUS_Woodworker

601 posts in 2368 days


#4 posted 04-17-2015 03:44 AM

You might want to check out my sled:

3 years and going strong.

Never Ever off square.

I treat it like a baby.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/64157

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1350 days


#5 posted 04-17-2015 10:10 AM

C_PlUS- IS that T-track flush with the face? Or do you have it inset?

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2190 posts in 941 days


#6 posted 04-17-2015 10:34 AM

Looks good except I don’t understand what you’re saying about 6” of registration to the right.
Why are you doing that?

Why not make the sled wider? Mine is 36” wide.

I saw a video recently where a guy made the right side of the sled moveable so he could use different zero clearnance inserts.

I’m thinking it would be pretty cool to have a few different size dado inserts you could slip in and out.

A retro fit would actually be fairly easy, just cut a 30 degree bevel right on the saw and make some elongated holes on the right side of the fence so the bottom will slide about a 1/2” to r&r the ZCI.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

2526 posts in 1737 days


#7 posted 04-17-2015 10:52 AM



See how I milled a slot for the t track I the front of the fence. It is 1 inch up from the bottom. I was curious of it was enough for registration. Wasn t sure of it would cause issues.

- lateralus819


v
v
I’m a bit confused also with the wording, but confusion is a natural occurrence for me anyway….Nevertheless, I’ll take a crack at it. If I’m wrong, then I apologize.

If you don’t want a break in the T track on each side of the saw kerf and want a continuous piece all the way across. Or if you don’t want to maybe risk cutting into the T track with your blade, then the slot for the T track 1” up from the bottom would limit cross cut capacity to material thickness of 3/4” or possibly less when the track passes over the blade. That all depends on how high you raise the blade beyond the material thickness. Some folks raise the blade beyond the material thickness of the carbide or the gullet.

But if you intend to have the T track in two sections, a 6” piece of T track on right side of the blade and a longer 16” piece on the left, leaving clearance for the blade to pass through in between, then I suppose it doesn’t matter as long as you take that 1” height into consideration for the accessories that will be used with the T track.

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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C_PLUS_Woodworker

601 posts in 2368 days


#8 posted 04-17-2015 03:57 PM

lateralus819

The T Track is just 2-part track that is inset into the Fence.

The track has an inset for the tape as well as for a 1/4 bolt that goes through an open-center knob

Simply run a dado of the suggested width and depth and screw down the Track.

Be certain to begin your tape at the blade edge so that the measurements you get are accurate, that way even as the kerf widens and take a little tape with it, the rest of the tape is still accurate.

BTW, blade thickness affects measurements. I set it up for 1/8 regular as opposed to thin-kerf.

I hope that was what you were asking.

Lemme know.

Best, Bruce

P.S. You have made some nice stuff. If you haven’t had a sled by now you will wonder how you ever got along without one. And, judging from your projects, you didn’t need me to tell you how to cut a dado and install the Track.

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C_PLUS_Woodworker

601 posts in 2368 days


#9 posted 04-17-2015 04:32 PM

lateralus819

I think you might be asking about this:

The T Track is recessed 1/16” shy of the face of the fence. Simply wanted any pieces being cut to ride the fence only, and not at all on the Track.

When I need to cross-cut pieces wider than the sled, and especially if I am making repeat cuts, I just put down a 1/2”piece of anything so that the cut-of is supported and use the fence with a 2” starter piece on it. As soon as the piece is pushed off the starter piece then then the piece being cut no longer is in contact with the fence. (I did that yesterday when I needed 4 pieces at 49.5” and I did not want to roll my SCMS out into the driveway (sawdust) and it was SNOWING).

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1350 days


#10 posted 04-17-2015 08:29 PM

Having thought about my question I guess it’s pointless Lol. I was worried the piece I want to cut would rock due to insufficient registration (Due to the track being recessed thus allowing a “space” to roll into it. Never the less…

Anyways. In regards to how I am making this…

The T-track on the front has a recess spanning the length of it. I will Route a long groove all the way through so i can slide the trick to the left for increased cutting capacity without having to clamp some rig up, and then securing it via two knobs on the back. The reason for an extra long recess is so #1 i can slide it out of the way so i don’t cut it off, and also sliding it inside the fence for storage.

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Ghidrah

667 posts in 683 days


#11 posted 04-17-2015 08:49 PM

This is a modified version of John Nixon’s sled, I made this one around mid 09, it cuts up to 60” to the right of the blade. The stop swivels up and out of the way, and a 2nd stop is on the end of the telescoping arm for the 60” cuts. The sled is a little heavy but slides real easy. I bought an Incra 3000 early in 2010 so I stopped using the miter options on the sled.

-- I meant to do that!

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