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Forum topic by mcg1990 posted 04-14-2015 02:40 AM 1613 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mcg1990

159 posts in 759 days


04-14-2015 02:40 AM

I’m towards the end of building my new mitre saw workstation and I’m at the point where I need to make some decisions before I implement – or fail to implement – a feature and regret it in the future.

Inspiration:

My sketch-up, featuring router table, T-tracks (right), mitre saw stop system (left):

Progress:

Materials are 3/4 MDF and 3/4 Birch Ply. The top is not yet complete as it will have a layer of ply over the MDF that you can see. I need this space to be quite versatile, hence considering building in a router table.
Due to the incredible depth of my SCMS it sticks out quite far forward, explaining why the fence is also far forward. I intend to have that fence be the front face of a raised surface so that I do not waste space at the back. I may even install drawers in the front. The left fence would of course be stationary, and the right fence be mounted to the T-tracks perpendicular to the front edge.

The main source of concern is re: router table. Can anyone suggest reasonably priced hardware (tracks, plate, lift (for Bosch 1617EVSPK), and could you fill me in on any specific details that I can’t afford to miss? Also, I’m assuming that a 1.5” thick top will sufficiently withstand any downward pressure in the centre, am I correct? I do not want a dip where I’m routing – in fact I’m planning on building this due to having to return a router table that sagged in the centre.

An obvious omission to the design is DC, which I’m confident can be retrofitted later, so I’d rather not panic about it yet.

I can see plenty of mitre-saw station designs online. Many with T-tracks, some with router table, but none with all of the features I’m planning. Is it because everyone (except me) is too busy, or are there inherent design complications that I’ve not noticed yet?

Please chime in if you’ve built something like and can pass any wisdom along. Thanks


17 replies so far

View DKV's profile

DKV

3940 posts in 1971 days


#1 posted 04-14-2015 05:18 AM

When it comes to mitersaws, DC is one of the main considerations. You’re going to leave it for later? I guess you could shoot it out the window.

☆☆ for faulty thinking.

-- This is a Troll Free zone.

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mcg1990

159 posts in 759 days


#2 posted 04-14-2015 01:25 PM

Sorry DKV, but that’s a really lazy and unhelpful post right there. It is very clear from my photo that I have ample space for a dust shroud, and it’s never going to conflict with any of the other design aspects I’m considering.

I can run hose from my central unit overhead, run it through the back of the cabinets, or put a shop vac underneath. Show me a necessary DC consideration that I’ve rendered impossible impossible due to my future plans, and I’ll concede that it was poorly thought out.

I would however greatly appreciate any wisdom on the rest of my design.

View CB_Cohick's profile

CB_Cohick

460 posts in 718 days


#3 posted 04-14-2015 01:44 PM

That is going to be a pretty sweet miter saw station! I have very recently been building a router table. So regarding the router table specific questions, my top is 1.5” mdf with plastic laminate on both sides. It is pretty sturdy, and I can’t notice any dips in the middle even when I put some meat on it and try to make it bow. The lift I bought will also fit your router I believe. It is a JessEm Router Lift II. I bought the installation template to go along with the lift for an additional 20-something. My experience with that is similar to some of the review comments in that the template left too much slop around the edge that was not completely compensated for by the adjustment mechanism of the lift plate. There is a little wiggle if I grab the motor from underneath and give it a shove, probably 1/32” or so, but during operation it is stable. The lift itself I am pleased with. It does everything it says it is supposed to. I bought Incra miter tracks and T-tracks, no complaints there.

Good luck finishing that up. I look forward to more photos.

-- Chris - Would work, but I'm too busy reading about woodwork.

View MBD's profile

MBD

72 posts in 1352 days


#4 posted 04-14-2015 02:26 PM

!https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/nmsvy7x.jpg

That’s an awesome miter station you have in the works. As you can see in my picture, I had a similar vision and I am constantly improving it. I bought all of my tracks and hardware from Rockler, but have not put a lift or a plate in yet. Those two are on my next on my shop improvement list.

Edit: Don’t know what happened to the pictures, but you can see it in my shop pictures.

-- Matt, Mississippi

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timbertailor

1592 posts in 891 days


#5 posted 04-14-2015 02:54 PM

My only concern is that long pieces may not fit to the left of the station before cutting so do not commit to a measuring tape/expensive fence that is not flexible in its design. You may find yourself hanging a lot of long material off the right side and your table is really short on the right. (think baseboards or quarter round projects)

Your original photos showed it on the left wall like the inspiration photo and I thought that would work. You have now installed it on the right wall, and that, IMO, was a mistake.

Matt,
Here is your photo

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2854 posts in 2698 days


#6 posted 04-14-2015 03:16 PM

Yours sorta resembles mine. I don’t see the need for t tracks except for times you use it as a work surface.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 759 days


#7 posted 04-14-2015 03:54 PM

Timbertailor: You’re right; I had to make a tough choice. My SCMS has the motor mounted on the right, so it’s much easier to make the cut so the waste ends up on that side. I have approx 7.5’ on the left of the blade which should be sufficient in most scenarios. To the right of the station I have a 5’ doorway, but then another 5’ til the other wall, so I may end up putting a couple of cabinets there (or just a support arm) in the rare occasions I have significantly longer boards to cut.

CB_ : I hadn’t considered a laminate on the top of the router side. Did you install that for rigidity, or for a glossy smooth surface for routing? If the latter, do you think a flooring polyurethane would provide a suitable surface instead?

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MT_Stringer

2854 posts in 2698 days


#8 posted 04-14-2015 06:24 PM

Mike is here.
http://lumberjocks.com/MT_Stringer/blog/36618

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Rick's profile

Rick

8287 posts in 2499 days


#9 posted 04-14-2015 08:15 PM

Little confusion here. Matt’s picture of your finished table (from where?) shows a Flat Wall on the Right side with 2.5 maybe 3 feet to the wall and some narrow Drawers. and no Overhang. That’s to tight for sure.

Your “Progress” picture shows Large Openings, a Top Overhang and I can’t see for sure, but it appears there is no limit to the Length on the Right Side. Then when you explain the picture that Matt put up, to Matt you say ” To the right of the station I have a 5’ doorway, but then another 5’ to the other wall” All I can se is a Solid Wall.

In fact Your “Progress” Picture and Matt’s “In Place” Picture aren’t even close? Where did Matt’s Picture come from as he says “Your Photo”. I looked for a “Blog” on it but couldn’t find one.

Did you change it all around after Your “Progress” Picture?

I’m just tying to clear this up in my mind so I can recommend what you are looking for ”The main source of concern is re: router table. Can anyone suggest reasonably priced hardware (tracks, plate, lift (for Bosch 1617EVSPK), and could you fill me in on any specific details that I can’t afford to miss?”

Thanks: Rick

-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

View Underdog's profile

Underdog

907 posts in 1502 days


#10 posted 04-14-2015 08:35 PM

Been meaning to set up a miter saw station for several years myself…. Can’t be much help.

My only contribution would be to suggest putting a DC bell mouth opening directly below your saw. Much of the waste goes through the cutout in the bottom of the saw anyway. That’s the way we have it set up at work, and it seems to get most of the dust.
Another nifty idea I saw for MS and RAS dust collection came from Ed over on the ClearVue Cyclone website. Tapered slot directly behind the saw catches most of the dust in that situation. Worth a look.

-- "woodworker with an asterisk"

View TheGreatJon's profile

TheGreatJon

296 posts in 700 days


#11 posted 04-14-2015 09:09 PM

Way nice miter station. Mine is pretty lame in comparison. I have one thought though, is that enough depth for a SCMS? I might just not be seeing the proportions correctly, but I have to set my station about 6” from the wall in order to give the slider all the room it needs behind the fence. I actually like it this way because I use that skinny space behind the station as vertical lumber storage. I have plywood sheets on one side, and dimensional lumber on the other. If you are short on shop space, it is a great place for storage.

-- This is not the signature line you are looking for.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2854 posts in 2698 days


#12 posted 04-14-2015 09:22 PM


I m towards the end of building my new mitre saw workstation and I m at the point where I need to make some decisions before I implement – or fail to implement – a feature and regret it in the future.

Inspiration:

My sketch-up, featuring router table, T-tracks (right), mitre saw stop system (left):

Progress:

Materials are 3/4 MDF and 3/4 Birch Ply. The top is not yet complete as it will have a layer of ply over the MDF that you can see. I need this space to be quite versatile, hence considering building in a router table.
Due to the incredible depth of my SCMS it sticks out quite far forward, explaining why the fence is also far forward. I intend to have that fence be the front face of a raised surface so that I do not waste space at the back. I may even install drawers in the front. The left fence would of course be stationary, and the right fence be mounted to the T-tracks perpendicular to the front edge.

The main source of concern is re: router table. Can anyone suggest reasonably priced hardware (tracks, plate, lift (for Bosch 1617EVSPK), and could you fill me in on any specific details that I can t afford to miss? Also, I m assuming that a 1.5” thick top will sufficiently withstand any downward pressure in the centre, am I correct? I do not want a dip where I m routing – in fact I m planning on building this due to having to return a router table that sagged in the centre.

An obvious omission to the design is DC, which I m confident can be retrofitted later, so I d rather not panic about it yet.

I can see plenty of mitre-saw station designs online. Many with T-tracks, some with router table, but none with all of the features I m planning. Is it because everyone (except me) is too busy, or are there inherent design complications that I ve not noticed yet?

Please chime in if you ve built something like and can pass any wisdom along. Thanks

- mcg1990

About your router table section. Mine is only 3/4 inch thick with Formica laminated on top. I used a Kreg router insert plate. The good part of my table is I have a pair of 2×4 frame members the insert plate sits in between) on both ends of the table). I used the Kreg plate because it comes predrilled for the height adjustment key for the Bosch. :-)

Here is a link to my adjustable height worktable/dual router table. The pics show the frame I described. I think you can do something similar to strengthen your router plate area.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/101964
Good luck.

Mike

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View mcg1990's profile

mcg1990

159 posts in 759 days


#13 posted 04-15-2015 02:06 AM


Little confusion here. Matt s picture of your finished table (from where?) shows a Flat Wall on the Right side with 2.5 maybe 3 feet to the wall and some narrow Drawers. and no Overhang. That s to tight for sure.

That photo Matt put up isn’t of my set up, that’s MBD’s!

@Underdog, thanks for that advice. I’d seen that implemented but thought to myself, “why?” Perhaps if I had my DC hooked up with a shroud I’d find that any dust remaining does settle under the saw itself, but right now my blast radius is all behind the fence. It manages to go every apart from the little bag that the designers put there to screw with us.

MT_: Thanks for the link; I definitely need to strengthen that side. In fact, I need to strengthen a lot of it. It’s my first set of cabinets and I went with my own guessed plans as opposed to the tried and true designs that every other person in the world uses. I’m certainly going to need to shove a few 2×4s around up there, but no one will ever see.

Thanks to everyone for the encouraging words. I’ve got my drawers made and some of the cabinet doors, and the mitre saw is in place with juuust enough space. I’ll post pics tomorrow.

View Rick's profile

Rick

8287 posts in 2499 days


#14 posted 04-15-2015 05:06 AM

Thanks “mcg”. ”That photo Matt put up isn’t of my set up, that’s MBD’s!”

Okay. Gotten to confusing for me at this point.

Good luck on the Final Build.

Rick

-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

View PaulHWood's profile

PaulHWood

337 posts in 1719 days


#15 posted 04-15-2015 12:32 PM

I would agree with clearance for cutting. I made a mobile one which stays where its at unless I need to cut longer items, it is the winged kind and is not nearly as nice as yours.

dust collection: I have a dedicated vac that amazingly picks up a ton of sawdust, but unfortunately the saw makes 3 tons of sawdust. A shroud is really what I think will work.

I am planning to make a ZCI for the saw and then tune it up well.

Really nice job!

-- -Paul, South Carolina Structural Engineer by trade, Crappy Woodworker by choice

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