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Is this due to a dull bandsaw blade? OR?

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Forum topic by DocSavage45 posted 04-12-2015 11:08 PM 1086 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DocSavage45

7708 posts in 2309 days


04-12-2015 11:08 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw milling

Thought I’d try the saw with the Olsen 1/2 inch 3 tpi blade I have been using before switching to the 5/8ths blade ( woodmiser type) to cut some elm that is a hearty tree that won’t die.

What is the largest diameter and length you cut?

I believe I had adequate tension but the blade drifted significantly to the sliced side. Starting at 1 inch it varied through the cut getting narrowwer.

tried a narrower maple log about 32 inches long 6 inches in diameter, and the cut really drifted. And the machine bogged down?

I’m guessing the blade has gotten duller? But seems sharp to the touch.

Suggestions welcome.

Thanks

Tom

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher


24 replies so far

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Andre

1023 posts in 1273 days


#1 posted 04-12-2015 11:19 PM

Sounds like blade drift or not enough tension ? On my old Delta BS everything needs to be perfect to get nice resaw cuts!( Resawing 6” Birch)

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

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tyvekboy

1342 posts in 2480 days


#2 posted 04-12-2015 11:23 PM

My guess is the board after it was cut was relieving stress and pinching the blade. If a blade bogs down, stop the saw and wedge the saw kerf after the blade to open the kerf up. That may solve the problem.

This would also apply to sawing wood on a table saw. Once I was cutting a piece of hickory on my 3hp cabinet saw and the kerf started closing up after it was cut so I stopped the saw, added a wedge, and continued cutting.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

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MrUnix

4244 posts in 1666 days


#3 posted 04-12-2015 11:33 PM

A dull blade can cause it.. but I’d try adjusting your tracking first (that’s what it’s for!).

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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distrbd

2228 posts in 1913 days


#4 posted 04-12-2015 11:44 PM

Mr unix said it,I would also check the tires ,loose(or badly worn/cracked) tires can cause tracking problems.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

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gfadvm

14940 posts in 2157 days


#5 posted 04-12-2015 11:59 PM

Several thoughts: cutting green/wet wood requires deep gullets to clear the sawdust, try cutting a dry pine board and see if you still have the same degree of blade drift, feeding stock too fast can also cause drift, I’m assuming you have tracked your blade where the bottom of the gullets are centered on the wheel?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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HillbillyShooter

5811 posts in 1759 days


#6 posted 04-13-2015 12:18 AM

When I’ve had trouble with blade drift, it turned out to be the blade was dull despite feeling sharp and not having been used that much (at least I thought it hadn’t). 6” inch re-sawing takes a lot out of a bandsaw blade when it’s on a 14” bandsaw.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

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DocSavage45

7708 posts in 2309 days


#7 posted 04-13-2015 12:21 AM

Tightened the tension.Had cut three pieces previously. Maple log, walnut log and ceder. No drift. I will check the lower wheel. Tires are like new. The blade is hook tooth 3 tpi. I may have run it against the screws anchoring it to the jig in my last run?

don’t know if I mentioned getting bogged down in middle of the cut on the maple. High pitch sounds and I will look into the tension issue.

Tried a plece of the maple vs. the elm that I was cutting. DDrrift bad in both cuts?

Thanks Andy, Ken, Brad, Tyvekboy, rad457

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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DocSavage45

7708 posts in 2309 days


#8 posted 04-13-2015 12:24 AM

John,

I was running a test to check feed and cut before changing to the Woodmiser clone. Ran out of time. Will take these great suggestions to the shop tomorrow. :<)

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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gfadvm

14940 posts in 2157 days


#9 posted 04-13-2015 12:24 AM

If your blade touches metal while running, it is toast! It may still cut, but not straight.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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DocSavage45

7708 posts in 2309 days


#10 posted 04-13-2015 12:33 AM

Sounds like a shared learning experience. LOL!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Blackie_

4535 posts in 1979 days


#11 posted 04-13-2015 12:48 AM

Tom invest into a metal finder, I’ve ran through a nail and barbed wire cutting through logs before.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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DocSavage45

7708 posts in 2309 days


#12 posted 04-13-2015 12:55 AM

Randy,

This was the screw I used to anchor the log to the jig. an “Oh Dah!” moment?

And I will remember to use my metal wand just for precaution

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Monte Pittman

22043 posts in 1805 days


#13 posted 04-13-2015 01:49 AM

My thought goes to tension on the blade if it’s sharp. Also, elm is not an easy wood to cut. It will give you fits.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

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DocSavage45

7708 posts in 2309 days


#14 posted 04-13-2015 02:11 AM

Thanks Monte,

It seems more dense. Like me? LOL!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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firefighterontheside

13520 posts in 1323 days


#15 posted 04-13-2015 02:16 AM

I’m thinking like Andy, if you touched metal on one side it will cut away from that side now.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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